redcar
Member
Some of my rounds loaded wont seem to slide all the way out of the cylinder after being shot in my ruger blackhawk. Any ideas where I have messed up? They seem to do better in my 629-4 but still sticking.
Loading 44mag
- Thread starter redcar
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Yorkie Man
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What is the load? If it's at the top end it could be too hot for the Ruger.
Without more information it's impossible to provide a sure answer. My
.44 magnum Blackhawk has chambers that are not as smooth as my
S&W 29's and requires a bit of a nudge on the ejector rod. The old
"cases fall out of the chambers" story doesn't describe my experences
with any of my revolvers with any loads. In my experence all revolvers
need a push on the ejector rod to completely remove brass. Lots of
reasons for variation in this other than high pressure.
.44 magnum Blackhawk has chambers that are not as smooth as my
S&W 29's and requires a bit of a nudge on the ejector rod. The old
"cases fall out of the chambers" story doesn't describe my experences
with any of my revolvers with any loads. In my experence all revolvers
need a push on the ejector rod to completely remove brass. Lots of
reasons for variation in this other than high pressure.
federali
Absent Comrade
Clean Brass
Assuming your loads fall with acceptable parameters, you could try cleaning and tumbling your brass if you're not already doing so. However, this may be taken to an extreme as extremely slippery shells set back harder into the frame or action (depending on the gun) upon recoil. This, especially so with nickeled shells, of which I've never seen any in .44 Mag.
Assuming your loads fall with acceptable parameters, you could try cleaning and tumbling your brass if you're not already doing so. However, this may be taken to an extreme as extremely slippery shells set back harder into the frame or action (depending on the gun) upon recoil. This, especially so with nickeled shells, of which I've never seen any in .44 Mag.
Have you checked case length? 44 mag brass will "grow" after resizing if stout loads are used.
All the cases have been prepped other than resizing. I use bluedot with 12gr loads and 240gr bullet copper plated. They slip into the cylinder just fine and I have cleaned the cylinder also but still seem to stick. I did have a box of Buffalo bore that I shot and they got mixed in the bunch and was thinking it might be them but too many are sticking to be that.
fredj338
Member
Every gun is diff, waht works fine in one may not be fine in another. Stickie extraction can be misleading. Some cyl are just smoother than others. You can try polishing them, see if that helps.
RIDE-RED 350r
Member
This is just me and my opinion and the way I do things, but I don't like to use faster burning powders in my magnums that are geared more toward "conventional" rounds like 45 auto, 9mm, 38spl, etc, etc.
In my mind while yes there is data for those powders, and yes you can use them... I tend to think they can be more touchy. Most times you see a more narrow range from starting charge to max published, and you are using much less of the case volume, many times using only about half the charge weight of magnum powders. To me, using those faster powders just inherently are going to be more touchy.
I use aa#9 and h110 in my 44mags for the most part. I don't go past max published loads and always work up. I have pet loads that are near published max that have never been sticky to extract. Cases don't fall out, but extraction is smooth.
If everything about your weapon is up to snuff, I think I would do a little experimenting with powders geared for magnum handgun rounds.
Again, I know lots of folks use faster burning non-mag pistol powders and I am not here to argue with those who have a load they like. Just making a suggestion that you might want to try to work up with some different slower burning powders and see if the problem persists.
In my mind while yes there is data for those powders, and yes you can use them... I tend to think they can be more touchy. Most times you see a more narrow range from starting charge to max published, and you are using much less of the case volume, many times using only about half the charge weight of magnum powders. To me, using those faster powders just inherently are going to be more touchy.
I use aa#9 and h110 in my 44mags for the most part. I don't go past max published loads and always work up. I have pet loads that are near published max that have never been sticky to extract. Cases don't fall out, but extraction is smooth.
If everything about your weapon is up to snuff, I think I would do a little experimenting with powders geared for magnum handgun rounds.
Again, I know lots of folks use faster burning non-mag pistol powders and I am not here to argue with those who have a load they like. Just making a suggestion that you might want to try to work up with some different slower burning powders and see if the problem persists.
Fishinfool
Member
redcar
When you say cases stick - does that mean they require a little push to eject, or are they really in there? The reason I ask, is on most of my Ruger SA's, (and I own a few), cases usually do not just fall out of the chambers. It is always good practice to give the ejector button a firm push on each chamber.
As others have stated, could be rough chambers, fouling / lead ring in the chambers, rough brass, excessive pressure. If they chamber ok when you load the gun, then the case sizing should not be causing your problems. Neither should your powder selection, as long as all your loads are in SAAMI spec. Maybe try a different brand of cases, as I guess it is possible the cases you are using may have overly soft case heads. Maybe also try a box of cheap regular factory ammo thru the Ruger, and see if there is a difference.
Larry
When you say cases stick - does that mean they require a little push to eject, or are they really in there? The reason I ask, is on most of my Ruger SA's, (and I own a few), cases usually do not just fall out of the chambers. It is always good practice to give the ejector button a firm push on each chamber.
As others have stated, could be rough chambers, fouling / lead ring in the chambers, rough brass, excessive pressure. If they chamber ok when you load the gun, then the case sizing should not be causing your problems. Neither should your powder selection, as long as all your loads are in SAAMI spec. Maybe try a different brand of cases, as I guess it is possible the cases you are using may have overly soft case heads. Maybe also try a box of cheap regular factory ammo thru the Ruger, and see if there is a difference.
Larry
RIDE-RED 350r
Member
You are running 12g of powder with Bluedot, that's well below starting charge for other magnum pistol powders. I would say that's a good indicator that it burns a fair bit faster than the likes of h110, aa#9 and other comparable powders.
Again, I'm not saying it's bad practice or criticizing those who use those types of powders in mags. And I am sure it works just fine. I was simply giving my thoughts and offering an experiment to try. Worst case it's a good excuse to go bang away at the range some more!
If your loaded rounds are chambering as they should, I don't see how or why the dies could be the problem. Have you tried reducing the 12g charge of Bluedot to see if the problem persists? Just don't go less than published starting charge level
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BigBill
Absent Comrade
I shot maybe proof loads or even higher out of my ruger super Blackhawk.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME I was young and dumb. The SBH ATE every hot load I ran through it. People at the range were leaving while I was shooting. My point is my fired cases never stuck. I use 2400 powder in my magnum charges for jacketed bullets and unique powder for my lead cast bullets.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME I was young and dumb. The SBH ATE every hot load I ran through it. People at the range were leaving while I was shooting. My point is my fired cases never stuck. I use 2400 powder in my magnum charges for jacketed bullets and unique powder for my lead cast bullets.
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