Loading 9mm for the 1st time

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I've been loading for 30 years, and .45 acp all that time. plus .38 44mag, 44 Spec, 7 TCU, 7X30 Waters, .222 Rem., 22-250, 243, .308, 30-06.

I have never loaded 9 mm, as I seldom shot it. Now have a 940 and it needs to be shot, quite a bit, and I would also shoot in my 469.

I have been told that 9mm is for some reason more difficult to load and I really don't understand why.

I have obtained the dies (RCBS Carbide), and I have a variety of powders, 231, titegroup, HS6, Solo1000, WST, Unique, AA#5 & AA#9, and a few more. Plenty of primers on hand, do have a brick of CCI primers (when I was low and panicked and bought) as well as Win and some Fed. Since 9mm is a higher pressure load, would plan to use either the CCI or Win primers as they are a little thicker.

I plan to load 125 cast lead as I have been lead to believe the 125 is usually more accurate. Is this correct? Would 147 cast be any better?

I don't plan to load any +P, keep loads to about 1000 fps or less. I use factory JHP for any carry or defense loads, this is just practice and plinking loads.

Would expect to taper crimp about .003 to .005, does this sound O.K. with the experienced 9mm re-loaders?

Any particular pet loads anyone would recommend for this cast bullet practice load at around 1000?

All help appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Nothing magical about reloading 9mm - look at it as a amall 45 ACP case. I have not been able to propel 124 gr. bullets at ca. 1000 fps and still obtain reliable functioning in semi autos. Peronally I prefer to use the 147 gr. bullets at ca. 900 fps. W-231 works well with 147 gr. lead cast bullets. Most of my 9mm loads are with either jacketed or plated bullets and WSF powder with either Winchester or CCI primers.
 
The commercial cast bullets I have run across are frequently too small. Very bad leading. You need at least a .356 or .357. I have had poor luck with Tightgroup. Again, bad leading. 231 and Clays have worked better. Other than that nothing out of the ordinary.
 
I prefer 231 or HP38. I've had some luck with hard cast (18 hardness) 115 gr. 4.7gr of either of the above gets a bit over 1000fps.

For indoors, 115 FMJ/JHP I use 5.0gr.

I've found its hard to screw up 9's. Just use a good quality bullet, lightly lubed cases, and a well-adjusted press. These days you can even save a buck or two doing it.
 
I've had pretty good results with 231 but seem to do just a bit better with either HS6 and AA5 under the 125 gr cast bullets:)
 
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Without being too redundant, there is nothing particularly challenging about handloading 9mm except for the size. If you have large fingers it takes a higher level of concentration to avoid misalligned bullets during seating and spilled powder (don't ask how I know this). I had a difficult time developing a load that my Kimber Aegis 2 would like until I settled on the Zero 125gr FMJ over 4.2 or 4.4 gr of W-231. The 4.2 load developed 1,040 fps at 10 feet with an SD of just over 8. That is the average of 7 strings of 10 shots each. That load shoots to point of aim in my Kimber with fixed sights.

I hope that helps,

Frank
 
I've had very good luck with both the Lee 124 TL (tumble lube design) RN and 125 RN bullets cast from wheel weights, sized to .357 in a: M&P full size, CZ Compact and STI 9mm Trojan with powder charges of 3.6gr to 4.0gr. of W231. The 3.6 gr, 124 gr RN load groups 2.5" offhand at 25 yards in the STI.

Sorry, haven't gotten around to chronographing the loads, yet.

Picture is from a bench at 7 yards with 3.6gr. of W231 and the Lee 124gr TL RN bullet.

DSCN2109.jpg
 
Since the 9mm case is tapered, I have found it wise to use a little case lube even in a carbide die.
 
I've had very good luck with both the Lee 124 TL (tumble lube design) RN and 125 RN bullets cast from wheel weights, sized to .357..... with powder charges of 3.6gr to 4.0gr. of W231
This.

About 4 gr of 231 with the 124gr Lee is about as good as I can get with lead 9mm, just a touch over 1000fps in a 5" Tac Five.
I don't like that load for competition, but use Titegroup and a 124gr Precision Delta FMJ for USPSA Production (bullet lube smoke bothers me in rapid fire).The FMJ load is also more accurate than I can get with any lead 9mm, but how accurate do you need?
 
Since the 9mm case is tapered, I have found it wise to use a little case lube even in a carbide die.

I tend to agree. 9mm run through the press harder than straight walled 45 and 38 cases unless you use a touch of lube.

Beyond that, pick a bullet (125 conical is good "middle of the road") a powder (231 is THE powder for most) and get started in small batch's.
 
Thanks all. I have 231, HS6, Titegroup, and AA#5 on hand. Have plenty of brass thanks to a friend I have a gal bucket full. I was sizing for a couple hours yesterday, and waiting for the bullets from Stonewall to arrive. I'll probably try 231 and AA#5 first. I tend to load up batch's of 10-15 rounds of the different combination's, then take to the range for testing. Has anyone found that the same load that works well in the Semi-auto wouldn't as well in a revolver?
 
Thanks all. I have 231, HS6, Titegroup, and AA#5 on hand. Have plenty of brass thanks to a friend I have a gal bucket full. I was sizing for a couple hours yesterday, and waiting for the bullets from Stonewall to arrive. I'll probably try 231 and AA#5 first. I tend to load up batch's of 10-15 rounds of the different combination's, then take to the range for testing. Has anyone found that the same load that works well in the Semi-auto wouldn't as well in a revolver?

I think you'll find that the revolver is the more forgiving of the two. Revolvers arn't quiet as picky about overall length, pressure profile and muzzle velocity. It's my general experience that if I build a round to function reliably and shoot POA on my Semi's, they will shot just fine in the revolver too.

For the record, I use my 9mm revolver (SP101) to digest my 9mm reloading mistakes :-)
 
The 9mm-guns are not easy for reloaders

It was a hard way to find out what works for my Berette 92FS.
But with the following load it works great and the load is OK
for most of my other 9 mm guns. (except of the Model 547 revolver). Best "commercial"-ammo is the Swiss-Army FMJ.

I'm not a big Beretta-fan. I'll keep the gun for some sentimental reasons.

Beretta-Target.jpg


Swissman
 
Here's the gun these loads will be mainly for, and the tool I made up for moon clip unloading. (Used a piece of 30-06 brass, screwed/glued to a 3/4" dowel and made up like the home made tool I use for my 1917, just smaller).
SW9403.jpg

SW9mmMooncliptool.jpg
 
Couldn't wait any longer to shoot this new toy, so I went out yesterday and waded through some snow at the range. Using factory Win White Box 115 gr. it prints right to point of aim at 10 yards. But, the empty's do not easily eject. I had to "tap" the ejector rod against the bench to extract the clip full out. No way I could have removed it by hand. Any recommendations? The chamber walls look smooth, but I will be polishing with 400 grit emery paper then Mothers mag polish. Another thing I just thought of was to measure the depth of the step in the chamber to see if it is deep enough and not possibly clearing the case.

Is this a normal or unusual occurrence with 9mm in a revolver? I was used to 45 acp in full moon clips, that practically fall out.

I will say, the 9mm recoil in a J frame is substantial, somewhat more than I anticipated.
 
Not one of the powders you mentioned but my standard 9x19 load is the old 3.5gn of Bullseye under a Lyman 124gn LRN bullet sized to .358 using WWL Carnauba Red lube. .
 
I load for my beretta 92. it does prefer the 124 grain bullets, but i prefer jacketed bullets under unique powder. i usually load about 0.2 under alliant max, which gets me about 1220fps. a pretty accurate load out to 25yds. Ive used AA7, power pistol, bullseye, and blue dot too, but unique has become my go-to load
 
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