Loading 9mm

[cds43016]

I have loaded thousands of 9mm, and it has presented some challenges that I haven’t experienced with other calibers.

There are good comments and advice posted here.

But the OP is taking about a 929 eight shot 9mm revolver that uses moon clips and has a barrel and chamber throats of a .357 mag.

My experience with the 986 (a sibling of the 929) has been much different than loading for my 9mm pistols.

Loading for my 986 required a lot more work figuring out how to produce accurate, reliable and lead free loads. At times it was a study in frustration, much more than loading for my pistols.

But it can be done.

 

[cds43016]

I’m sure there are others that have a lot more experience loading a 929 than I. This is some of what I learned loading for its cousin the 986. I hope this helps.

First you need to find the size of the cylinder throats. If you don’t have specialty tools for this, use .356, .357 and .358 sized bullets. Nevada ED in the post above points out how to get samples. If you shoot coated bullets you want the first bullet that doesn’t drop through the cylinder. In my case with the 986 .357 fell through, .358 did not. My cylinder throat is .357+. You could slug the barrel, but unless the barrel is way out of spec, the cylinder throats will control your bullet size. I read in this form and others it’s probably .357. This is the reason I think the gun is inaccurate with factory 9 mm ammo. Your gun may be different. My only experience with this is my 986 and what I read.

Find some quality noon clips. I got mine from TK custom. I also use a BMT Mooner to load and unload the clips. It works great.

Get some quality brass. Be sure the brand works with the moon clips you choose. I had some problems with foreign brass. Normally I would just buy Starline brass but for some reason the brass doesn’t like the titanium cylinder of the 929 and 986. Starline doesn’t recommend their brass in these guns. They describe hard extraction. I don’t know if this is a problem with other brands but Federal works for me both with extraction and moon clips.

A reloading complication in my case was getting a .358 bullet in a case designed for .355 without damaging the case or the bullet and still have the completed round fit in the chamber. At the time I posted a tread here to see how best do that. The link is here.

357 Diameter Coated Bullets for a 986?

After that, normal reloading practice applies. Use published loads from loading manuals or powder manufacturers, use a case gauge to test your completed rounds (mine go in OK but are a bit harder to get out than .356 bullets – but still ok) and be safe.

Good Luck!

 

[Moe Mentum]

Interesting. I've just switched to Titegroup for my 9mm loads and chronoed a few test rounds the other day I was using 4.3 gr with 115 gr FMJ bullets and averaged 1150 FPS which is on the hot side of things so I intend to try another batch with 4.1 gr.

Is that $88/k price recent? The best I've found on 115's is $95/k shipped now. Those same bullets were $79/k pre-panic.

That's $89 per 1k, but you must buy 2K to get that price, so you will have to spend $188.00 on 2k....which comes to $89 per 1K

 

[fredj338]

You didnt say what press but lead bullets are best loaded with a M style expander. Things also go smoother seating & crimping in separate steps. You dont want to be shaving lead.

 

[342ti]

9mm's a joy to reload, EASY! Forget all the BS, 4.0grs Bullseye will do the trick with ANY 115/124gr bullet. ENJOY!

 

[BE Mike]

9mm's a joy to reload, EASY! Forget all the BS, 4.0grs Bullseye will do the trick with ANY 115/124gr bullet. ENJOY!

So true, as long as, your standards for accuracy are low and they are for most shooters. The current popular distances for "accuracy" testing seem to be 7 or 10 yards.

 

[mmb617]

Precision Delta’s current prices :
115 FMJ is $83.00 per 1k shipped for 2k or more .
124 FMJ is $88.00 per 1k shipped for 2k or more .
Their prices are cheaper when you order 2k or more at a time . These are true jacketed bullets and not just plated .
Shipping included . I’ve found that the 124 grain seems to be a little more accurate but your results may vary .

Thank you. I hadn't heard of Precision Delta before but now have them in my bookmarks list for reloading supply vendors.

 

[max503]

Just sayin'....
Leading is easily removed by pulling a wad of Chore Boy Copper Scouring Pad through the bore and cylinders with a length of string trimmer cord. Make sure you get the Chore Boy Copper pads and not the generic Copper Coated pads.

 

[cds43016]

Just sayin'....
Leading is easily removed by pulling a wad of Chore Boy Copper Scouring Pad through the bore and cylinders with a length of string trimmer cord. Make sure you get the Chore Boy Copper pads and not the generic Copper Coated pads.

Chore Boy works.

But the best way to eliminate leading is not to have any leading in the first place by using bullets properly fitted to the gun.

Fitted bullets also greatly improves accuracy in my 986.

 

[SMSgt]

I load strictly lead in my 9mm, and I never found reloading it any different than .45 ACP or 9mm Mak I reload.

 

[typetwelve]

Don't buy a boatload of bullets at first. Buy small lots till you find what works.

Amazing advice for any new loader...I wish someone would have told me that.

As for loading 9mm...perhaps I'm just lucky, I really don't know. I've loaded Hornady offerings (like HAP and XTP), Missouri's Hi-Tek 9mm parabellum, and mostly 115g Berry's plated and not once have I had a single issue, ever. I've loaded them with all kinds of powder as well, Tightgroup, Acc N07, Sport Pistol, HP-38, W231, Bullseye...no issues with any of them.

I've also always loaded with used brass vs new. I've done all my 9mm loading on my Dillon 550 using their 9mm dies and again, no problems yet.

 

[cds43016]

I too have no problem loading 9 mm for my pistols (4). Once it’s set up, there is no difference between 9 mm loading and any other pistol caliber as long as you use quality components.

The problem the OP faces is that he is loading for a revolver that is not a true 9mm. It’s a 357 Mag (barrel and chamber throat diameter) that is set up to load 9mm cartridges with moon clips.

To avoid leading and accuracy problems, extra steps need to be taken to find a good load. Once found and set up, there is also no difference than any other. The trick is finding the combination of components and dies to create good loads.

Loading for a 929 or 986 is not the easiest place to be introduced to 9mm loading.

 

[typetwelve]

I too have no problem loading 9 mm for my pistols (4). Once it’s set up, there is no difference between 9 mm loading and any other pistol caliber as long as you use quality components.

The problem the OP faces is that he is loading for a revolver that is not a true 9mm. It’s a 357 Mag (barrel and chamber throat diameter) that is set up to load 9mm cartridges with moon clips.

To avoid leading and accuracy problems, extra steps need to be taken to find a good load. Once found and set up, there is also no difference than any other. The trick is finding the combination of components and dies to create good loads.

Loading for a 929 or 986 is not the easiest place to be introduced to 9mm loading.

I don't have either of those revolvers, but I do have a Charter Arms Pitbull in 9mm and have loaded for that.

About the only issues that it has is pretty severe crimp jump, even with factory ammo. I was having weird accuracy issues as I would run through a cylinder (it holds 5, BTW) so I ran some factory ammo, pulling the fifth round unfired after firing the other four, sure enough, lots of crimp-jump and depending on the brand, a LOT of crimp jump. Enough so that it was throwing off the accuracy of the round due to having less cart pressure.

Besides that? Eh...I even loaded some 145g LRN that I use for 38 spcl and ran that through the Charter...shot just fine (not that I'm recommending doing that).

I'm now to the point where I'm following the "KISS" approach with 9mm. I load 115g Berry's RN over Tightgroup with Winchester primers on my 550...no issues.

 

[Nevada Ed]

To prevent leading and also bullet set back..........

you had a good idea to try the Missouri bullet.........

mostly if it is coated and with the deep Cannelure for crimping for your revolver.

Give the 125gr sample package a try for your first venture and let us know how things turn out.

 

[tejano]

My 2 cents as a 929 owner. FC and WW cases work fine. Federal small pistol primers are the most reliable. Seat the primers down hard. As for bullets—.357 jacketed/plated and .358 lead (coated or uncoated). I like Titegroup for target work.

 

[S&WIowegan]

My 2 cents as a 929 owner. FC and WW cases work fine. Federal small pistol primers are the most reliable. Seat the primers down hard. As for bullets—.357 jacketed/plated and .358 lead (coated or uncoated). I like Titegroup for target work.

Very interesting post. I agree with almost everything except Federal ammo. I bought several cases of Federal 147gr plated bullets ammo to shoot in my 929. The moonclipped brass would stick in the chambers very hard. I solved the immediate problem by running 38 Short Colt ammo in the 929. It runs fine but does blow the brass out noticeably. More recently discovered that used Win, WMA and WCC brass runs in my cylinder with no extraction problems. Note: both WMA and WCC brass have crimped primers. I also plan to reload some used Federal brass to see if it runs OK.

 

[sparkyvega]

I also load a range of pistol calibers, and 9mm is my least favorite.

Check the Bullseye Forum and Brian Enos forum. They have lots of info. I've loaded about every pistol cartridge from .32 to .45 and 9mm is a PITA .

 

[342ti]

So true, as long as, your standards for accuracy are low and they are for most shooters. The current popular distances for "accuracy" testing seem to be 7 or 10 yards.

Furthest thing from the truth! That 4.0grs Bullseye load yields superior accuracy in EVERY 9mm I own/owned.

 

[BE Mike]

Furthest thing from the truth! That 4.0grs Bullseye load yields superior accuracy in EVERY 9mm I own/owned.

What I question is the selection of bullets not having anything to do with accuracy. Some cast, swaged or coated bullets shoot better than others for me, out of my pistols. 4.0 grains of Alliant Bullseye is my favorite load with certain coated or lead bullets, but for me jacketed bullets give much better accuracy driven much faster with powders like Alliant Power Pistol. When I was seriously competing, I tested a Kidd custom built Beretta Brigadier 92FS with Bar Sto barrel and from a machine rest at 50 yards to come to the conclusions about 9mm jacketed bullets driven fast. 2" 10 shot groups were common. These days, I just shoot for fun and test at 25 yards with coated bullets. 1" groups with coated bullets and 4.0 grains of Bullseye are possible out of my Sig P320 pistols.

 

[jjfitch]

The big hold up with getting precision accuracy from the 9mm was the lack of SAAMI spec'd barrels until S&W got in the game in the 60's. The "go to" bullet was the 115 grain. When 50 yard accuracy was required reloaders were in trouble trying to get velocity without over pressure with available canister powders.

Once heavier bullets ie. 147 grain and slower powders became available 50 yard accuracy began to tighten up. Fast forward and the 9mm is just as accurate as any other caliber/bullet and is favored in lots of venues.

The issues in the OP is more about 986 geometry than the 9mm round.

Google: "Reloading for the 9mm revolver"

Most problems are related to the forcing cone and chamber dimensions.

Recognizing that that .357 diameter bullets may be required is the first step.

Personally I cast .358 and size .357 135 grain LRNFP NOE bullets at around 10 BHN which to some is "soft"! I also use a soft lube. I clean my barrels with a rolled up paper towel, no leading at all. I get stellar accuracy in 9mm, 38 Super and 38 Spl. I use mostly Win and Fed brass, loaded on Dillon presses. Velocity for 9mm and 38 Sup 1000 and 38 Spl. 875 FPS.

Reloading is as much an art as a science!