Loading cast bullets for 44 magnum

I don't think anyone doubts that you can shoot a 12 BHN bullet at 1200 fps without leading. If it fits right, it will work. However, it's often easier to get good accuracy and freedom from leading with a slower powder, especially if you haven't had a lot of experience with cast bullets. The slower powders are often (not always) a bit more forgiving. It can be done with faster powders like 231, just takes a bit more work and experimentation. I'd certainly suggest #2400 to start with. Gain a little experience, then try the faster powders if you wish.
 
forget the 1200fps it really doesn't matter & should be the last thing on your mind.

If you're looking for accuracy then do ladder testing with all the powders you have on hand that are known target load powders.

I have a 629 classic also and use a redot on it. When doing test loads I put a burris 7x scope on it. i have several "target" loads for that 629, quit testing when I found 13 different loads that would do 1 1/2" or less 6-shot groups @ 25yds.
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6.0gr to 6.5gr of clays with any 200gr to 250gr bullet
6.5gr to 7.0gr of bullseye with any 200gr to 250gr bullet

Redots can be challanging to say the least. I put a burris fastfireIII on a 10" bbl'd contender to play around on the 100yd line beating & banging on steel between set with a 308w/cast bullets. I stapled up 5 50yd smallbore targets and used the top 3 targets to zero that redot. Man, a couple of clicks go a llllloooooonnnnnnnggggg way. Once I got the hang of how much to move the dot (clicks) and used to the 3MOA dot covering the black/consistent centering, I started on the bottom 2 targets.
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Shot the bottom left target 1st, was still having trouble with the dot so I turned the brightness down 1 setting and shot the bottom right target. Ended up giving the redot 1 click down & 1 click right and started banging steel. Don't take much stock in 3-shot groups other then sighting something in. The bottom left target was 3 1/2", the bottom right was 1 1/2".

That final sight in target, 3-shot group @ 100yds using a 260gr bullet & 7.0gr of bullseye in 44mag cases using a 10" bbl'd contender rested sitting at a shooting table/bench.
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forget the 1200fps it really doesn't matter & should be the last thing on your mind.

I tend to agree with you for the most part, but some handloaders want to push bullets fast in this cartridge since that's what why it was developed.

I've done all the .44 Magnum loading I'll ever do and stopped doing it some years ago. I much prefer mild recoil and the best in accuracy. Nevertheless, some pretty accurate, fast .44 Magnum loads that don't lead can be assembled. But there's no getting around the heavy recoil.
 
A side note; when I started reloading/shooting for my 44 Magnums I has a raging case of "Magnumitis". Many of my handloads were at or near the top and I guess I liked the wrist breaking recoil and sonic boom muzzle blast. But I have grown up and most of my handloads are on the lower side of Magnum data, and a lot are made with right out of the book Special data. I do have my "T-Rex load" but I don't shoot it often (T-Rexes are protected in my state); cast Ranch Dog 265 gr RNFP over max loads of WC820...
 
Heavy recoil isn’t much fun after a while, unless you’re hunting, what’s the point of higher velocity, paper, golf balls, and beer cans don’t need heavy hitting loads.

I’ll blast a couple cylinders of magnums every now and then, 21gr 2400, 210gr gdhp bullets, work great in both revolvers, not any fun after that, back to the powder puff and cheaper to load specials.
 
I think most of us at one time liked to have some loads that would turn the heads of the people at the local range and give you a weird look as to say, what are you shooting.

It is making me vibrate !! ::eek:

However I seldom feel the need to impress people that I can still hold on to my pistols and revolvers with the "Ti-Rex Loads", like I did when I was a lot younger and in top physical condition.

Just a few years ago I had a "Magnum Load" get away from me on the first round. I realized that my grip and thoughts were not where they should be and I placed a lot more pressure on the revolver grip. The following five shots were not "Flyers".

Have fun with you testing.
 
Unique works best behind a bullet that's heavy for caliber. Example would be 240 gr in .44 Spl/Mag, 210 in .41 Mag and 158 gr in .357 Mag. It does not burn fully with light for caliber bullets.
 
I know you are talking 231 but 30 years ago I had a good scope on my 29-2 and 17.5 of 2400 was the most accurate bench load for me with a 240 swc. I tried several powders. My Ruger liked Unique better.
 
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There is always the option of 44 Special instead of full house magnum loads for plinking.
 
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If your goal is to develop target loads with what you have, just drop the charge. Start at 7gr and go up 1/2gr until you find the sweet spot. 1200fps is not really a "target" load and is best achieved with slower powders. Top loads with fast powders will beat up a revolver faster than top loads with slow burning powders.
 
I don't have a .44 Mag. revolver (just a Marlin 1894) but FWIW I looked up my Lyman 49th ed. manual and they only show two 231 loads, for a 180 gr. JHC and a 210 gr. cast (Linotype), the latter from 9.3 gr. (914 fps.) to 12.8 gr. @ 1191 fps. Interesting that they highlighted it as a "best" load for that bullet, given that it's generally thought to be too fast for the. 44 Mag. I'd guess you might get 1000 fps. from a 240 gr. but the leading suggests, as others have said, a less than perfect bullet fit. "Micro-tinkering" with the load and/or lube might fix that.
 
I'm not going to say that you cannot get good results with fast powders like Bullseye and W-231 in the 44 Magnum caliber, but I think it is easier to get good results with a medium burning rate powder. Unique and the 44 Magnum go together incredibly well. Typically 8 to 10 grains of Unique under a 240 grain hard cast semi-wadcutter will produce excellent accuracy.
 
Accuracy and max velocity often doesn't go hand in hand. As said, with lead bullets the proper bullet diameter is important. I don't shoot a 44 Magnum but I've found with both my 357 and 41 Magnum loads, the harder bevel based commercial bullets with BHN of 16 tended to lead at the back of the barrel more so than my softer flat based home cast, BHN around 12. It takes more experimentation when loading lead than with jacketed. And the hotter burning powders usually wont do as well. It's all part of the game. Have fun!

John
 
It's interesting that you say , " 1200 fps " . If you are using that velocity in preparation for a hunting load , then I understand . W231 is a good powder but not really the powder for what you are wanting " 1200 fps " . My choice powder for what you are wanting would be IMR 4227 with a " full " magnum primer --CCI 350 . My experience has always been that whenever you push a powder too hard , yes the velocity will increase , but the pressure really spikes and the accuracy falls off . If using load data from Hodgdon's , be sure and check the barrel length used in their testing . It can show much higher velocity with such a long barrel and NO barrel to cylinder gap as they use a test barrel . Each inch shorter barrel can result in a velocity loss of between 35-50 fps . Just my results , good luck . Regards Paul
 
Bullet is of unknown alloy. I shoot nothing but cast in everything except 9mm and SBH that is loaded 240JHP / 2400 magnum load for deer. I shot Kieth style 240Sswc / gas check for years with heavy charge of 2400. Now load 240 plain base with Unique at 850fps. This means nothing if bullet is to hard. Guy think leading is from too soft, I think it’s mostly from casting straight wheel weights. Personally the only leading I’ve had was in 25-5 with Speer Lead bullets. I believe they are swaged not cast. I was running them about 800fps with Unique and they leaded the worst I’ve ever seen. Lead came out of the muzzel like foil.
 
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