locked up stored revolvers

hugo

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This is probably fairly common issue, but Ihave 3 safe queens that have dried bolts/cylinder latches. I have thought about letting them maybe warm gently in sun to see if grease would release. I do not want to disassemble tho i know how to do this.
Thought too, that I might just remove thumb latch and work some break-free type light oil in there-maybe using the micro tuype flexible tube once maybe a bit of gentle sun heat applied? or cold?. Would using a syringe/needle maybe work to carefully inject and agent from side into bolt/cyl pin-if so what sort of agent? I have been advised to just leave alone but I want them operable tho no plans to shoot.
I know to take grips off prior to messing with them.
Maybe flex tube thru rear of frame to most fwd area can be reache d in frame. excuse typos. thanks.
 
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Another option would be to pull the grips and let the gun soak in a pan of solvent overnight,blow out the lock work with compressed air and relube.I recently tried this with a 60 year old Ruger in mineral spirits and all the dried crud came loose in a few hours.
 
The gun really needs to be stripped down and carefully inspected for wear and corrosion. You will never be able to get all of the dried up lube/grease out by flushing with solvent. There's simply too many nicks and crannies inside. I would also replace all of the springs while you're inside.
 
I'm with NYlakesider. I've never had a gun lock up from storage. If you have that much gunk inside your gun that it is locking up the action, then you need to disassemble and do a complete cleaning to get rid of the gunk.
 
I have also never had a firearm lock up due to the grease drying out. I have had them nearly lock up due to liberal use of WD-40. It leaves almost a shellac behind. But soaking in a good solvent (I use OMS with about 10% CLP). Let it soak for a couple of days and blow out the excess. I think you will find it will free up whatever is restricting motion currently. The CLP provides some rust resistance for areas that small amounts tend to hang up.

Personally I would fully disassemble, soak, dry, lube and reassemble. But I took it from your post you either don't want to or you aren't comfortable with the dis assembly. Nothing wrong with that. I am just giving an option.
 
I have also never had a firearm lock up due to the grease drying out. I have had them nearly lock up due to liberal use of WD-40. It leaves almost a shellac behind. But soaking in a good solvent (I use OMS with about 10% CLP). Let it soak for a couple of days and blow out the excess. I think you will find it will free up whatever is restricting motion currently. The CLP provides some rust resistance for areas that small amounts tend to hang up.

OMG...you just committed the unpardonable sin of suggesting WD-40 isn't perfect for everything under the sun. Better get your flameproof suit on!!!
 
I agree with the others in saying that the guns need a good detail cleaning and relubing. Not just having stuff sprayed into them until they loosen up then left as "good enough."
If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, then take it to a gunsmith.
When I got my 442 from a private owner the action was a little stiff. Not only was it gummed up but it had some corrosion inside as well.
 
Why not open them up and properly clean and lubricate? Please explain why your reluctant to do this and maybe we can help with that?
 
Why not open them up and properly clean and lubricate? Please explain why your reluctant to do this and maybe we can help with that?

I would bet that these are "Safe Queens" that he does not want to chance damaging. I have 2 guns I have the same problem, both from the 50s with the boxes and they appear to not being fired much if at all. My cylinder releases are also gummed up. I am hesitant to pull them apart for fear of leaving a mark:D, if I planned on shooting them I would have no problem pulling them apart. The difference between "safe queen" and one you are going to shoot.:)
Ed
 
I handled a commemorative model 27 that had never been turned and stored for a lot of years and it was locked up. The trigger and hammer would not move. The cylinder release would work and the cylinder would open easily but would not turn with trigger and hammer would not pull back.It is still this way(not my gun)so I am watching this thread for answers. I told owner that someone needed to go "under the hood" and clean it good.
 
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If you have the correct screwdrivers the tear down is not that hard. If you don't DO NOT try to remove the screws, you will mark it up. Use the bit that fits tight and all the way across the screw head. It will be easy to clean then.
 
Locked up

I know how to do the takedown/reassembly probably without leaving any evidence and I have the tools,and know the ropes there. The reply about just keeping unassembled guns the way they came is the way I have been looking at it too, and I am glad I held off. They are probably unfired guns, and have not been over greased I don't think. time has been the main factor I think, and minimal handleing which keeps things sort of "Limber"
What I did here was to bring them in out of safe where temperatures are not well controlled and have them in my office and just now here pulled guns out again and tho still very stiff, they opened but are stil tight. this will allow me to use some breakfree or similar that comes w/ a fine tube/black bottle (naturally I guess now).
I htink the normalization of temperature while they had been cold 40/50 F(relative term) was adequate. I know too of the WD 40 inadequacy. While one gun is semi common as a pre M10 5 screw mint, the others are a pre-M18 5 screw (I really like these), and other is a pre M43 mint 4" no box but just really neat to me. Would this gun have had a printed label (not written and printing of directions, etc on insde of box lid? Personal reply OK here)
Thanks for the replies and ideas. Sort of glad I am not the only one with the issue(s).
 
It sounds like you could get them properly loosened up now with just Kroil and maybe some gentle working of the moving parts. WD40 is OK for what it is (water displacing) but its no cure-all. The real "miracle" for this kind of thing is Kroil.
 
For old gummy lubricant, soak the gun in kerosene with some CLP mixed in overnight, wipe it off, then let it sit for 3 days, at which point it will probably all start to move again. I got a gummed up cylinder on a Shooting Master back to normal this way. For some reason Colt cylinders seem to get gummed up after 70 years or so of sitting around.
 
This worked for me on an old Colt Woodsman;
Would not fully cycle when shot, although it would fire
the first round. Removed grips and submerged in kerosene
for a while. Sloshed it around, then blew air into the
action. Has been fine for the last thirty years.
I figured that the kero would leave a Very light coating of
oil on the parts. Have used small amounts of RemOil since.
It should have been detail stripped, but I got the results
I was looking for.
JMHO, TACC1.
 
i use kroil penetrating oil for just such problems. remove grips & spray inside. let soak overnight & blow dry with low pressure air. hth.
 
Had a bolt action rifle one time that had been stored so long the oil on the bolt had had turned gummy and the firing pin wouldn't drop. Took it out and soaked it in WD-40 ( I think). Kroil or kerosene would probably work also..
I think some of the older oils and grease would jell over time.. I haven't noticed it with the modern stuff like CLP , etc..
Take the grips off and soak it over night ,, let it drip dry ,, I would think it would be fine..
 
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I used to use WD 40 many years ago. No more, it locks up revolvers.
 
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