Locking Bolt mod. 65

big50_1

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Just wondered if the locking bolt on a SS mod. 65 is fitted or a drop-in part? I purchased an almost brand-new 65 that sat in a drawer for years but the cylinder rotation is stiff. I've lubed the heck out of it but inspection looks like someone took a file to the locking bolt and it's filed off center. Looks like it is binding the ejector rod. So do I have to send the gun back to S&W or just get a drop-in part from Brownells?
 
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Just wondered if the locking bolt on a SS mod. 65 is fitted or a drop-in part? I purchased an almost brand-new 65 that sat in a drawer for years but the cylinder rotation is stiff. I've lubed the heck out of it but inspection looks like someone took a file to the locking bolt and it's filed off center. Looks like it is binding the ejector rod. So do I have to send the gun back to S&W or just get a drop-in part from Brownells?
 
I think they all have a bevel to them and may not be simetrical
 
You're right in that there is a "ramp" machined into the part that allows easier closing of the cylinder. What I'm alluding to is that the bolt below the ramp or closer to the lug should/must be conical so the ejector rod is centered between the cylinder bolt and the back of the frame for easy spinning when closed. Right now it appears that the bolt is pushing the ejector rod further in towards the right of the frame making for a slightly bent/flexed ejector rod when closed. The upshot is that the cylinder doesn't turn easily at all when closed. Wondered if it's a gunsmith installed part or can a "kitchen" gunsmith just drop one in?
 
i have changed them. it is quite easy. tap out the pin, remove the bolt and spring, install the new parts. the only fitting mine required was the slightest bit of filing to get it to move freely without binding. you may have to do a little searching for the original part.
 
I've had very good luck with replacing cylinder stops so why not cylinder bolts? I ordered one from Brownells. My thinking is that there might be some (minimal) file work to get the "closing ramp" correct. The conical part of the bolt that centers the ejector rod should not need any work. We'll see.

I don't have a problem sending a gun to S&W for work. Every job I've had done by gun manufacturers on their products have turned out great. But gunsmith jobs I've had done locally have been sh___ty. And local smiths are complaining that no one is sending them work!!! When local shops get the damn smith away from the cash register selling knives and cleaning supplies and get them to do minor gunsmithing work that in one case I had in the shop for 5 months and when I finally wanted the gun back, all of a sudden it was "next" then I won't do the amateur gunsmith stuff. (that rant felt good)
 
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