Long term handgun storage

[ISCS Yoda]

First a story, then a question....

A friend of mine used to own a nickel plated Colt Buntline Special Commemorative. The gun was NIB in a display case, rarely if ever removed. I recall that when he sold it there was a problem on the right side of the gun after it rested for decades on the velour of the display case.

Bearing that in mind, here is the question:

If you owned a nickel plated revolver (in this case it's a Colt Python - not mine!), and you planned for it to be a safe queen and neither handled nor fired for years, what is the best way to store the gun to avoid anything happening to the finish. It will be in a safe, of course.

Oh, one more item - it is in the original box. He doesn't think he should keep it in the original box. He called me and asked me and I said I'd get a team of expert replies for him - that'd be y'all reading this, of course!

Here are the new owner's various choices if he removes it from the box - these are simply off the top of my head:

1. A standard, fleece lined or otherwise soft interior gun rug. There are SO MANY types out there I can't even begin to list them.

2. Gun sock (aka sleeve), with or without silicon impregnation. Most of these are truly "socks" in general appearance except for Bore Stores - I happen to like these, I use both regular gun socks and some of these:

Hand Gun Cases, Rifle Cases, Shotgun Cases, Long Gun Cases, and Thompson Contender Cases offer Long-Term, Rust Free Gun Storage Solution.

3. Plastic, foam interior or similar, hard storage cases. For that matter, there are metallic cases for such storage as well.

4. Silicone bags. Somewhere I seem to recall seeing these plastic-type bags that were actually some kind of silicon material but it's been so long I can't really recall what they were.

5. Silicon impregnated cleaning cloth (unused) wrapped around the gun and then left that way or perhaps put in some more protective "container".

Comments definitely solicited.

And, yes, I'd shoot the danged thing and store it like any other gun but, well, he's not me.....

Oh, one more thing - how does he protect the original box?

 

[arjay]

I'd oil the innards and give the exterior 3 coats of renwax and put it in two bore stores.

 

[chief38]

The best I've found is RIG UNIVERSAL GREASE. Been using it for 36 years with perfect results.

Any gun you want to store simply completely disassemble, completely coat entire gun inside & out with RIG GREASE, reassemble, wrap in a few layers of wax paper then in heavy aluminum foil. Will outlast most of us! Almost any common gun solvent will completely remove the RIG Grease in short order and your finish will be as good as it was when you stored it.

I use the Rig on many things non gun related as well, especially outdoors and around the pool in the winter. Works great!

NOTE: Leave off grips when storing.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

The first consideration for long term storage is to make sure no politician can ever find it.

Beyond that, a light coating of good gun oil (inside and outside) and keep it in anything that will not attract or retain moisture. This means no fabric or leather of any kind.

Rust is oxidation. Oxidation occurs only when ferrous metals are subjected to oxygen, and it is enhanced by higher temperatures. If I were trying to store firearms for long periods of time I would think about vacuum sealing in heavy plastic bags, removing all air (oxygen), and storing at moderate temperatures without a lot of variations that could result in condensation. Well oiled, vacuum sealed and stored in a bank safe-deposit box comes to mind.

 

[NZshooter]

Vapor Barrier Anti-Corrosion Firearm Storage & Preservation Bags - ZCORR Products

 

[JSR III]

Oil storage can be a mistake for long term storage especially if there is any dust around. Oil attracts dust and eventually dries up leaving the dust. The dust then attracts moisture and as we all know, moisture causes rust. Most gun frekling is caused by dust that has held moisture against the finish.

You wax your metal car finish for a reason. It keeps moisture off the metal. Coat the gun with a good coat of Reniassance Wax and store it in wax paper or VCI paper available online or from S&W.

Most museums that have collections that are stored for very long periods use a mycrocrystaline wax and Renaissance is one of the best out there. It isn't cheap but guns aren't either. A small can goes a long way. I even use it on the wood stocks and leather holsters. It stops the green crud from forming on your brass rivets as well.

 

[J. Galt]

+1 for RIG grease. I have some handguns I inherited that were covered in RIG 30 years ago and put in ziplock bags that are still rust free. More recently I tried some vapor barrier bags (like ZCORR), with the chips. It's only been two and a half years, but so far so good.

 

[Beemerguy53]

Here's another endorsement for RIG. Make sure the entire gun, inside and out, is coated with it, and it's good to go for longterm storage.

Three suggestions for anyone going this route...

1. Make sure that every part of the inner surface of the gun is coated, to the extent you can do that. If you're doing a 1911, for example, disassemble the mainspring housing and coat the inside of it and it's various components. Remove the firing pin and extractor from the slide and coat them, and their channels. Use Q-Tips or a flux brush to reach into corners or other tight areas.

2. Make sure that your heirs or next-of-kin know that the innards of that gun are coated with grease, so whoever the next owner is will know to clean it should he decide to fire it. You can also place a hangtag or wire tie around the trigger guard to mark that gun as greased.

2. Use a Goldenrod, or similar dehumidifier, in your safe. They really do work, amazingly well. With a Goldenrod installed, you can safely store your guns anywhere, even a place like an unheated or non-air conditioned outbuilding, and they will not rust.

 

[rburg]

The long term storage question is kind of a problem. In the past nothing extra was done. And somehow a bunch of guns survived without any problem at all. No special grease or other consideration, just put it in the closet, up on a shelf or in the sock drawer, who knows. But over the years some business types have seen an opportunity to fleece the nervous types out of their money. They've come up with wonder drugs to protect guns against all kinds of imagined casualties. On the other hand, I've never owned a gun for over 75 years, so all of mine were purchased in nice condition, allowing the prior owners to lift the heavy loads.

Basically, to keep a gun from rusting you've got to prevent oxygen/air and moisture from reaching the surface. Its really not too hard. I currently use Collectors CLP, a variant of normal CLP. Its tends to dry out a little and leaves a waxy film on the gun. Yes, its a wonder lube kind of thing, untested over decades. One of the big problems is the grit and powder residue left from any firing. Or finger prints from popcorn eating folks who just must handle your guns. Lucky for us, we all know how to remove it with most powder solvents. Some use cotton gloves for that kind of handling. Its OK if you want to. But the important first step is to get the gun really clean. Only then do you apply any protectant. I use the Collectors because I like the film it leaves on the just cleaned gun.

And after that step, I feel confident the air will be excluded as will the moisture in the air. Then, immediately, I drop the gun in a Ziplock brand bag! Yes, they should either pay me for my plug of their product. And I only do it because the economy bags are thin and prone to getting a hole. The brand name bags are noticeably thicker. I then fold the bag to exhaust as much air as I can. I seal it with as little as possible. Not sure why I feel so confident, but I haven't noticed any rust on my guns over the last 5 or so years.

I box my guns. The folded ziplock fits inside the factory box, so that's how I do it. I probably should protect the box better. The best way I've seen is inside a tupperware type of plastic tub. You can stack those as high as you want. Its a trick to find one that just the box fits inside. The idea is not to scuff the box if you're transporting it.

 

[Marine Corps Air]

Yoda,

FWIW, although I do not disagree with the recommendations from the other forum member posts, here's my game plan:

1. Flitz or Mother's Mag Wheel Polish to clean and polish
2. Ren Wax before storage
3. Light coat of Rem oil in the barrel
4. Store in a gun safe, with a "Golden Rod" - monitor the humidity levels.
5. I store all of my revolvers and 1911s using these gun racks:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00420HDMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com : Versatile VR7 Handgun Rack : Gun Racks And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31M8BmXcWYL.@@AMEPARAM@@31M8BmXcWYL[/ame]

The firearms are easy to see, and air can circulate in the safe.
I check all of mine about once each quarter throughout the year. Ren Wax under wood grips where it contacts the nickel finish helps prevent pitting.

6. Never store a firearm in the case or box. Too many firearms have been permanently damaged in these situations. The boxes and cases can be stored safely in a temperature and humidity controlled room. I have a dehumidifier in my "Man Cave".