Long time storage
- Thread starter mrsig
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Long term storage needs definition. I do not have the answer, but if I were going to try it, I would use grease, remove the grips, and vacuum store in in a food vacuum freezer bag
H Richard
US Veteran
I would not use oil, it has a tendency to dry and harden. I would use Renaissance wax or Rig. Common problem with long term storage is the internal oils turning to thick varnish and requiring a total tear down and cleaning after 30 years in storage.
It depends on the storage container! Is the room and/or safe temp and humidity controlled? Plastic will retain humid air and when cooled the humidity will condense on the metal surfaces! I store mine in their boxes with the original S&W anti-rust paper. A better storage would be in a silicone impregnated sock(Bore Stors) however these are much harder to stack in a safe.
jcelect
jcelect
22hipower
Member
Keep the humidity out and it will be fine. Renaissance wax and then put it inside one of those silicone storage bags perhaps. I once handled a fully engraved 2nd Model Colt Woodsman Match Target, my favorite of the Woodsman family. It was totally pitted, both sides, from storage in a safe in a warehouse in Houston. On the other hand, I bought a Registered Magnum that had been in storage in Dallas in another warehouse for 30+ years and it was in perfect condition and hadn't been stored in anything other than a pistol case.
Jeff
SWCa #1457
Jeff
SWCa #1457
The oil warning is "very" real. I had an expensive problem with a Browning BLR because of Remoil, and it wasn't much over one year.
Weaponshield has become my preferred oil, and I've gone as long as 4 years without issue, with the singular exception of parts that did not get oiled well (my fault!). I would not wrap in plastic, and "highly" prefer a temperature controlled area.
Weaponshield has become my preferred oil, and I've gone as long as 4 years without issue, with the singular exception of parts that did not get oiled well (my fault!). I would not wrap in plastic, and "highly" prefer a temperature controlled area.
All oils are not the same. Use 0-20 Mobil 1 that doesn’t oxidize easily. The wax problem of old mineral oil is nonexistent. Synthetic oil is a very complex long branch hydrocarbon that’s very stable. Combined with Ren Wax and you’re in business.
rockquarry
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Turn storage into a ritual if you like, but it's seldom necessary. What is "long term"? I have two commemorative S&Ws purchased new over forty years ago. They're in their wooden presentation boxes in a gun safe. Every few years, about five or so, I wipe them down with a lightly oiled soft cloth. The oil doesn't matter and it doesn't hurt to run a lightly oiled patch through the bore and cylinder at the same time as the wipe down.
I can't see a need for wax, but it likely hurts nothing. Storing on a shelf in a safe would probably work fine, but I'd give the guns a wipedown every year or two if not fired. With the exception of my commemoratives, I'd call a year without firing a gun "long term storage".
I've never dealt with high humidity; that may present other problems, but seems that would be lessened considerably in an air-condtioned home.
I can't see a need for wax, but it likely hurts nothing. Storing on a shelf in a safe would probably work fine, but I'd give the guns a wipedown every year or two if not fired. With the exception of my commemoratives, I'd call a year without firing a gun "long term storage".
I've never dealt with high humidity; that may present other problems, but seems that would be lessened considerably in an air-condtioned home.
ImprovedModel56Fan
US Veteran
RIG. There are probably other good answers, but I know that this one is right because I've done it. In plastic, to avoid possibly rotting foam with grease. In S-W paper is also OK. Just make sure that all external surfaces are greased.
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To repeat, how do we define long term storage?
Further, storage where? Not in what but where in the house, garage, bunker, dirt pit, whatever. Where is important.
I have guns in various types of "gun rugs", silicone impregnated sleeves, sometimes original boxes, and some long guns just stored in a safe with no "wrapping" at all. For years. Actually, the gun rugs and sleeves are more for orderly storage and the avoidance of guns scratching guns than any other reason. And I would never use a plastic bag. YMMV
So, "for years" some of these guns never move. They all look as good as the day they were locked up and they all operate as well as they did before they were locked up. So, what's the actual issue here?
"Where" is always important. In a typical, private home/apartment/condominium, 20th-21st century insulation and HVAC, I don't see the need for concern, long term or short term. My FFL does business out of his home and he stores guns long term the same way that I do. So he doesn't see any concern, either. YMMV
But hidden in a burial pit for the next generation to have available, yeah, maybe that's a special issue for ya.....
Further, storage where? Not in what but where in the house, garage, bunker, dirt pit, whatever. Where is important.
I have guns in various types of "gun rugs", silicone impregnated sleeves, sometimes original boxes, and some long guns just stored in a safe with no "wrapping" at all. For years. Actually, the gun rugs and sleeves are more for orderly storage and the avoidance of guns scratching guns than any other reason. And I would never use a plastic bag. YMMV
So, "for years" some of these guns never move. They all look as good as the day they were locked up and they all operate as well as they did before they were locked up. So, what's the actual issue here?
"Where" is always important. In a typical, private home/apartment/condominium, 20th-21st century insulation and HVAC, I don't see the need for concern, long term or short term. My FFL does business out of his home and he stores guns long term the same way that I do. So he doesn't see any concern, either. YMMV
But hidden in a burial pit for the next generation to have available, yeah, maybe that's a special issue for ya.....
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Autonomous
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Rather than storage paper I'd use some VCI disk emitters in a bag to limit their rate of dispersion. Oil and/or wax the gun and consider putting it and the sealed disk emitters in another sealed bag with a moisture absorbent.
Obviously stored under a garage bench on the hurricane coast requires a different plan than a second story safe in the high desert.
Obviously stored under a garage bench on the hurricane coast requires a different plan than a second story safe in the high desert.
Im of the school, look at often and shoot . These are not like coins.
Its like trying to store a classic car for a long period of time. It dont work!
Its like trying to store a classic car for a long period of time. It dont work!
What will kill a gun is a sudden temperature change from cold to warm.
The moisture in the air will condense on the cold metal and you could have lots of rust in just a few hours. I would NEVER store a gun in a plastic bag unless its a vacuum bag and the gun is well coated with a rust inhibitor.
The moisture in the air will condense on the cold metal and you could have lots of rust in just a few hours. I would NEVER store a gun in a plastic bag unless its a vacuum bag and the gun is well coated with a rust inhibitor.
Mr. Wonderful
Member
I posted this several years ago (December 04, 2018), and a number of folks said it was helpful. Take a look.
-------------
Hello friends,
Here’s some thoughts on rust prevention and related issues. Many people don’t have a problem because of their physical location and circumstances… but I thought I’d put some addition comments here to consider.
Protecting guns from rust can have a number of issues to address. Depending on your situation, there are multiple concerns and protective options to consider.
The number one hazard, or at least the most common for your guns is moisture. Several of the previous posts have already touched on moisture and countermeasures, but if you’ll excuse my “return to basics” here… I’m sure somebody will gain some new perspective.
There is always some amount of moisture in the air, even in the driest areas of a desert. In practical terms, the higher the temperature of the air, the more moisture it can hold. The most common way this is measured / described is the Relative Humidity… for a given temperature, it describes what percentage of the air’s capacity to hold moisture, is actually present as moisture. Example: when you hear “its 80 degrees and 60% relative humidity”, it doesn’t mean 60% of the air IS moisture, its that the amount of water in that air is 60% of what it can hold at that 80 degree temperature. If the temperature drops, like it commonly does at night, the relative humidity will increase to a higher percentage… although the amount of actual water in the air is the same. When the temps go down even more, to the point where the air is saturated with water (can’t hold any more), you have 100% relative humidity… and probably fog-like conditions and/or dew forming on everything. This situation when water changes from a gas to a liquid is sometimes called a “condensing atmosphere”. It is the same thing when you operate your air conditioner. The refrigerant coils are so cold, that when the air is forced over them, they drop out the moisture as condensate. Moisture condensation is not what you want on your guns… whether they are in your safe, your vehicle, or in a closed gun case.
This changing relative humidity issue can be a real problem, particularly if you have your gun safe in the garage, basement, or anyplace where the temperature can drop considerably. It is possible for the internal temp to drop enough to actually condense micro-droplets of water onto your guns, beginning the rust damage. You may not even realize it, since when you eventually open the safe to look at your guns it may be warm enough at THAT time to re-evaporate the previously condensed water. There will be no evidence unless you look carefully, at the right time.
If you have your gun in a foam-lined plastic case, there may be water vapor in the foam. If the temperature drops enough inside there, you have the same potential problem.
Your BASIC goals are:
To reduce the water (humidity) in the air around your guns.
Always maintain a storage temperature high enough to avoid condensation.
Apply a protective coating on your guns to isolate the metal from moisture.
Avoid dirt / deposits on your guns that can attract moisture and hold it.
The DETAILS… You want to do the following things the best you can:
1. Keep the gun clean, with no soiling or other material that could attract and hold moisture on a gun surface. Inside and outside… everything matters. Even fingerprints can eventually do damage.
2. Reduce the moisture in the air that will touch your guns as much as practical, to assure you do not have a condensing atmosphere at any time. You can consider a dehumidifier, indicating silica gel that absorbs water (and can be regenerated / reused), etc.
3. Maintain the temperature of the gun and whatever place you have it above a point where condensation could occur. If possible avoid safe installations that will suffer large changes in temperature. In addition, you can put a specialty heat strip in your safe… designed for that purpose, or even an incandescent light bulb always on to slightly raise the internal temperature. Be sure not to lean any of your guns directly on the heat source though… you could damage them.
4. Use a coating to protect all the surfaces of the gun. Gun oil, wax, grease, silicone, etc. This makes a shield on the metal.
5. Use moisture free sleeves (rugs) to store the individual guns if possible. I use the Bore-Stores silicone cloth products, sized to the individual firearm. There are other options.
6. Do not store anything potentially corrosive or reactive anywhere near your guns.
Anyway, I hope the above helps someone. I live in South Florida so humidity is always a concern. In 40+ years I’ve never had any rust on any gun.
Best wishes everyone,
Roger aka Mr. Wonderful
-------------
Hello friends,
Here’s some thoughts on rust prevention and related issues. Many people don’t have a problem because of their physical location and circumstances… but I thought I’d put some addition comments here to consider.
Protecting guns from rust can have a number of issues to address. Depending on your situation, there are multiple concerns and protective options to consider.
The number one hazard, or at least the most common for your guns is moisture. Several of the previous posts have already touched on moisture and countermeasures, but if you’ll excuse my “return to basics” here… I’m sure somebody will gain some new perspective.
There is always some amount of moisture in the air, even in the driest areas of a desert. In practical terms, the higher the temperature of the air, the more moisture it can hold. The most common way this is measured / described is the Relative Humidity… for a given temperature, it describes what percentage of the air’s capacity to hold moisture, is actually present as moisture. Example: when you hear “its 80 degrees and 60% relative humidity”, it doesn’t mean 60% of the air IS moisture, its that the amount of water in that air is 60% of what it can hold at that 80 degree temperature. If the temperature drops, like it commonly does at night, the relative humidity will increase to a higher percentage… although the amount of actual water in the air is the same. When the temps go down even more, to the point where the air is saturated with water (can’t hold any more), you have 100% relative humidity… and probably fog-like conditions and/or dew forming on everything. This situation when water changes from a gas to a liquid is sometimes called a “condensing atmosphere”. It is the same thing when you operate your air conditioner. The refrigerant coils are so cold, that when the air is forced over them, they drop out the moisture as condensate. Moisture condensation is not what you want on your guns… whether they are in your safe, your vehicle, or in a closed gun case.
This changing relative humidity issue can be a real problem, particularly if you have your gun safe in the garage, basement, or anyplace where the temperature can drop considerably. It is possible for the internal temp to drop enough to actually condense micro-droplets of water onto your guns, beginning the rust damage. You may not even realize it, since when you eventually open the safe to look at your guns it may be warm enough at THAT time to re-evaporate the previously condensed water. There will be no evidence unless you look carefully, at the right time.
If you have your gun in a foam-lined plastic case, there may be water vapor in the foam. If the temperature drops enough inside there, you have the same potential problem.
Your BASIC goals are:
To reduce the water (humidity) in the air around your guns.
Always maintain a storage temperature high enough to avoid condensation.
Apply a protective coating on your guns to isolate the metal from moisture.
Avoid dirt / deposits on your guns that can attract moisture and hold it.
The DETAILS… You want to do the following things the best you can:
1. Keep the gun clean, with no soiling or other material that could attract and hold moisture on a gun surface. Inside and outside… everything matters. Even fingerprints can eventually do damage.
2. Reduce the moisture in the air that will touch your guns as much as practical, to assure you do not have a condensing atmosphere at any time. You can consider a dehumidifier, indicating silica gel that absorbs water (and can be regenerated / reused), etc.
3. Maintain the temperature of the gun and whatever place you have it above a point where condensation could occur. If possible avoid safe installations that will suffer large changes in temperature. In addition, you can put a specialty heat strip in your safe… designed for that purpose, or even an incandescent light bulb always on to slightly raise the internal temperature. Be sure not to lean any of your guns directly on the heat source though… you could damage them.
4. Use a coating to protect all the surfaces of the gun. Gun oil, wax, grease, silicone, etc. This makes a shield on the metal.
5. Use moisture free sleeves (rugs) to store the individual guns if possible. I use the Bore-Stores silicone cloth products, sized to the individual firearm. There are other options.
6. Do not store anything potentially corrosive or reactive anywhere near your guns.
Anyway, I hope the above helps someone. I live in South Florida so humidity is always a concern. In 40+ years I’ve never had any rust on any gun.
Best wishes everyone,
Roger aka Mr. Wonderful
DUSTYDOGDAN
Member
I do not know if this is long term but what does everyone think of the Gun socks that are silicon treated moisture wicking knit fabric ?
I have bought them and wanted to cut them down to fit my growing 2ND & 3RD Gen Smith pistol collection. I am lucky that I live in a dry state with low humidity and for now have been storing everything in the original boxes with the treated paper. I get most of the pistols out on a rotation and check them and no damage to this point. I did have to buy a larger safe so now I have two safes inside the heated home and the wife just loved that..LOL
Thanks for any advice about these socks.
I have bought them and wanted to cut them down to fit my growing 2ND & 3RD Gen Smith pistol collection. I am lucky that I live in a dry state with low humidity and for now have been storing everything in the original boxes with the treated paper. I get most of the pistols out on a rotation and check them and no damage to this point. I did have to buy a larger safe so now I have two safes inside the heated home and the wife just loved that..LOL
Thanks for any advice about these socks.
JohnRippert
Member
When I moved out of a apartment back into my parents place about 20 years ago they had a warehouse which held the inventory from their antique art glass business. I moved everything I had into that unair conditioned place. The 75 or so guns were all in plastic gun cases with foam padding. All had been stripped and cleaned with Ed's Red minus the lanolin. They were in there for 5 years of season changes here in muggy SE Texas. None of them developed any rust at all. The only things that rusted at all weere some swords which had not been treated. That experience was the one that cemented my use of Ed's Red from now on.
I use these, and have very good luck with them......
VCI Poly Bags | ICT(R) VCI Bags | ZERUST(R)/EXCOR(R)
VCI Poly Bags | ICT(R) VCI Bags | ZERUST(R)/EXCOR(R)
Laketime
Member
I store my guns sometimes for 5 years . Remington oil is what I always use never dries up and is good for the blueing.plastic bag can trap moisture and could leave a wear mark depending how it’s used. Use a good high quality case with soft firm porous foam and kept in a dry environment and it will be fine.
chief38
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IMO the ALL TIME BEST long term storage is this.....
1)Disassemble clean gun
2) Use Rig Universal grease inside and out including inside barrel and cylinders, internal parts, etc.
3) reassemble gun minus the grips
4) wrap the gun in waxed paper
5) then wrap that inside heavy duty aluminum foil
6) store grips separately in a plastic bag with holes in it to allow air to circulate. Store all in original box.
If you follow this method your guns will never rust! Bluing will look as good as the day you put them away. I have done this a bunch of times and it has never failed. IMHO, NOTHING protects guns as well as Rig Universal Grease and it is easier to use than Cosmoline.
ADDED NOTE: When you are ready to put the "moth balled" gun back into service, simply wash off the Rig Grease with Hoppes Solvent - quick & easy!
1)Disassemble clean gun
2) Use Rig Universal grease inside and out including inside barrel and cylinders, internal parts, etc.
3) reassemble gun minus the grips
4) wrap the gun in waxed paper
5) then wrap that inside heavy duty aluminum foil
6) store grips separately in a plastic bag with holes in it to allow air to circulate. Store all in original box.
If you follow this method your guns will never rust! Bluing will look as good as the day you put them away. I have done this a bunch of times and it has never failed. IMHO, NOTHING protects guns as well as Rig Universal Grease and it is easier to use than Cosmoline.
ADDED NOTE: When you are ready to put the "moth balled" gun back into service, simply wash off the Rig Grease with Hoppes Solvent - quick & easy!
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Yessir, I like those and have cut several rifle sox down to store handguns in because I had plenty of the long ones and ran out of the handgun variety.
When you say "plastic bags" the presumption is food storage bags. If you're using "plastic bags" designed to store guns in and inhibit rust, etc., that's a good plan and far away from just saying "plastic bags".
As far a plastic bags go I have a couple of 40 year old guns that came that way and they still look like the day they were made. All of my Smith revolvers are wrapped in the factory parchment paper also look like new.
I use Ballistol, wipe them down and as long as you have you have climate control the finish will last forever.
I use Ballistol, wipe them down and as long as you have you have climate control the finish will last forever.
For what it is worth I am a retired commercial air conditioning contractor that worked with scientific equipment with freaky temp and humidity settings. Again, keep the humidity low and a coat of oil and a non wicking container and you are good to go!
