Longer sideplate screw? Flat head

[StevethePirate]

I bought a M15-3 sight unseen through an auction and unfortunately found out that it was missing the side plate screw under the grip. I ordered up a replacement and it did not reach the threads before bottoming out in the plate. It seems the threads in the frame may have gotten hogged out a bit. Is there any place where I can order an extra-length screw?


The screw does engage the threads in the frame with the sideplate removed.

 

[mh51]

Have you tried using the lower side plate screw? Normally the upper and lower side plate screws will interchange.
Don't use the forward side plate screw. It should be fitted to the yoke to control endshake, and may already be slightly shorter than the other screws.

 

[StevethePirate]

While the other side plate screw does engage the threads, the dome head interferes with the grips. I could probably take a spare dome head screw and flatten it out, but I'd prefer something a little less rigged by my non-gunsmith self.

 

[pantannojack]

I have learned to not pre denigrate my self g smithing after seeing what some others did to me. But then I have also learned where to stop and ask for help.

 

[Imissedagain]

You can remove a wee bit of the grip's wood, so it lays flat.
Just in the area where the screw head sits proud.

 

[gmborkovic]

Steve, take the easy way out and use another new longer screw and file the head flat. Dont go drilling anything and tapping with a 5X44 tap.
Touch of cold blue and forget about it. And shoot a nice gun.

 

[Imissedagain]

^^^^
That would work and hopefully there is enough of the slot's depth to tighten it properly and loosen if the plate needs to be removed.
Cutting or filing the slot to a useable depth is doable.

Soon I will be calling screw manufacturers to see if they can make slotted 1911 grip screws that are a bit longer than the old OEM Colts. Most of the newer ones are beveled at the ends and not fully threaded.

I like my 1911 grips to be about .300" thick.
I bought a dozen sets of Colt screws, from Brownells, some years ago, but they no longer have them.
Also nice to have longer screws if you use Bullseye style thick grips.

 

[steelslaver]

Some Ace hardware stores have assortment gun screws with different lengths and heads. Not sure if they would have that exact one. The gun screw selection is in a box with a bunch of drawers. In on of those drawers there are some small plates, each with tapped holes marked with the threads think from like 3-56 or 4-40 up to 8-32. Not only are the plates handy for checking screw size they are also handy for holding a screw will you file to the length you want or even modify the head. It isn't that hard to make them shorter when held in the plate

I have also seen them at Big R ranch supplus

 

[rct269]

The gun screws available at some (but not all ) ACE HARDWARE stores are to be found in the same area as the other machine screws---and will be labeled as GUN SCREWS.

Step One is to ask if they stock gun screws---and ask an old hand if possible, 'cause the kids will just stare at you, and shake their heads. And no matter what the response is, go back and look for your self. A lot of these folks don't know beans from apple butter about what they stock.

Some who do stock gun screws don't like to talk about it, for fear of antagonizing an anti-gun nut. At the other end of the scale are those such as the first one I found, whose front door was emblazoned with GUN SCREWS in letters 10" tall.

The sizes run from 0 on up to 8 (I think), typically in two different thread counts. All of them will be too long for sideplate use, and will likely have heads too big---both easily coped with for those with a lathe----or a drill press pretending to be a lathe-----or a regular, everyday hand held electric drill----held by someone else's hands while you whittle. Lacking any of such conveniences, the plates mentioned above will do just fine---just take a little longer.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Muley Gil]

The poor man's lathe is a portable drill secured by the handle in a vise.

I have made many a gun part using one.

 

[H Richard]

I have fixed this problem simply using a 1/4" drill bit "in hand only" to remove a tiny bit of wood from the inside the grip in the correct place. You don't have to destroy a good round head screw to fix it..

 

[Imissedagain]

A timely thread.
Thx OP

I use Kutzall burrs in a drill or a jeweler's screwdriver to make the indents for screw heads. Drill bits, as already mentioned, are another option when used carefully.

With the location of the M15 screw, #5091 in the shop manual,
I would just remove a bit of wood.
I have a bunch of side plate screws so I screwed them in after drilling 7/64" holes in wood and filed one down. One is still OEM.

Pic of grip made for a 460, shows how close the other side plate screw is to the end of the wood, blue marker.

The 460/500s and other Smiths come with Hogue rubbers, so it's not an issue.
The rear screw is the same as the other screw but countersunk a bit deeper.

Grips were bedded and will be masters for duplicating. I'll be adding some powdered white wood and epoxy to add on and reshape that part of the grip.
Other option is making the screw heads flat. Just did one to see if the remaining slot is usable.
Not the best option for making grips for family and friends.

Will try using the Kutzall wheels to remove wood for plunger tube clearance. Grips set on mill and see if it works.
Beats sawing and hand filing as we did with 2K sets of slabs long ago.
The incubative years, as I told Mr. Pachmayr,
during a fun conversation.

 

[Imissedagain]

Trouble loading several pics in post above.
Only loads one per post?

 

[Imissedagain]

Here's another one.

 

[Imissedagain]

Last one for now.
Kutzall burrs/wheels of many different shapes and sizes, are great for woodwork and super great for fiberglass boat chores.