looking for a good pocket knife

Smokey Mountain Knife Works

Howdy,
If you have your heart set on a trapper you should check out Smokey Mountain Knife Works. Random search them and enter "Trapper style" once at their site.
It will bring up a lot to look at and think about.
I have a brother in law who likes trappers and I have gotten him several by Remington, Colt, S&W, Schrade over the last several years that are nice knives for not a lot of money.
I just got a catalog and it is loaded up as I thought of him while peeking through it.
Good luck
Mike
 
Great pocket knives

The Remington Bullet Knives From the 1980s Were really well made and hold an edge. Bought A bunch of each kind, used a couple for gutting and skinning purposes for the last 30 years.
The others I have put away to me, they are priceless, and turned out to be a great investment for my Grand Kids. Better investment than buying FACEBOOK STOCK !!!!!!!! THESE WERE AMERICAN MADE , not some fancy garbage from Pakistan , India , or China .
They fit in you pocket and were useful & handy. People who run around with these futuristic looking knives, what good are they in a GUNFIGHT !

IMG_0435.jpg
 
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First I always carry a Swiss Army knife, one with the sissors.
Other pocket knives that I have and still do carry, that I have cut a lot of game and other Utility stuff with are Puma, Boker, Carl Schelleppler [sp], SOG and Cold Steel.
 
Benchmade,
Kershaw
Own several of each brands,can not go wrong with either brand, look for assisted opening feature, pocket clip stndard on most modles Also the one with the half serated blades are the most pratical.Pay attention to the weight, I prefer a heaver knive when I wear jeans and a lighter one with dress pants
Sold them for years at the old store.
Penmon
 
I've been carrying a Buck pre-110 folder since about '66.
It's still nice and tight.
Recently, I got a new 110, as I like the blade shape a
little better. Also got a Buck 55, for little jobs.
There are so many great knives available, I wish I had
time and money to check them All out! TACC1
 
Is Soligen Steel the same as long as they have the knife stamped "Soligen Steel" regardless of the manufacturer? I have some cheep knifes with this steal. others are stamped 440 stainless steal. Is one better at holding a edge ? George
 
A "Made in the USA" Kershaw Blur works for me.

$55 at Amazon. Not too expensive, and a very good knife.

Not all of Kershaw's knifes are U.S. made. You can go to their website for a list of the knifes that are.
 
If you haven't noticed there is a distinct trend for Spyderco, which is also what I would recomend. As for a specific model they vary from year to year but the Endura and Delica are a year to year classic. My peronal favorite is the Delica but I would suggest you hit their web site and take a look at the current catalog, I have no doubt you'll find something that works for you.
 
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Is Soligen Steel the same as long as they have the knife stamped "Soligen Steel" regardless of the manufacturer? I have some cheep knifes with this steal. others are stamped 440 stainless steal. Is one better at holding a edge ? George

P.S
Just trying to learn something here.. I have some Soligen Steel knives that have a Pakistan stamp on the blade.
 
Is Soligen Steel the same as long as they have the knife stamped "Soligen Steel" regardless of the manufacturer? I have some cheep knifes with this steal. others are stamped 440 stainless steal. Is one better at holding a edge ? George

P.S
Just trying to learn something here.. I have some Soligen Steel knives that have a Pakistan stamp on the blade.

George,

Soligen is a town in Germany that was/is known for producing a high quality type of carbon alloy steel. Because of it's particular properties, it has become a well known and popular steel for making edged weapons and tools (knives, swords, chisels, saw blades, etc).

But not all "Soligen Steel" marked blades are the same, this is kind of difficult to explain but, Soligen is not a type of steel unto itself, it is a location where a particular type (formulation) of steel is produced. There are a number of steel manufacturers in Soligen, and they can each have a slightly different alloy formulation. It's kind of like the difference between "Southern Fried Chicken" versus "Kentucky Fried Chicken" versus plain "Fried Chicken"... they may or may not be exactly the same, but they are all fried chicken.

Not eveything marked "Soligen Steel" is the real thing, because Soligen has become synonymous with a higher quality steel, it is not uncommon to see cheaply made knives from offshore sources being marked that way to represent themselves as being made from a better quality steel than what they actually are. An unscrupulous maker can stamp anything they want on a blade or anything else for that matter.

A knife being made in Pakistan doesn't automatically mean it's an inferior blade, it all depends on who made it and whether or not they are known for making a good quality blade.

I've bought a few Damascus steel knife blades from various U.S. knife making supply houses, that where of Pakistan origin, and they've been well made, but I've seen others at knife shows that are plain junk.

Is one type of knife steel better at holding an edge than another... absolutely, but it just doesn't stop there.

There a lot of different alloy steels being used for knife blades because of their particular characteristics.

Here's a link to a webpage at a knife making supply website explaining the types of steels and their characteristics: Knife Blade Steels Knives at Knife Supply

Hope this answers your question.
 
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I've tried to hold my tongue, but someone really needs to point out that the correct spelling for the famed cutlery city in the Ruhr is "Solingen", not "Soligen."

Many knife companies are located there and they use a variety of steels, some probably made there, some maybe elsewhere.

As always, go with the brand and its reputation, not just by the city of manufacture. Puma and Carl Schlieper (Eye Brand) are my favorites, but Linder, Boker (NOT "Booker" :rolleyes:) and others make good knives in Solingen. Ed. Wusthof and Henckels are the primary makers of high grade kitchen knives. I have a Henckels Inernational chef's knife made in China but they say they use German steel, and the quality is high. It seems on par with my German-made Henckels knives.

NOTE: The famed Twins logo for Henckels International has only one stylized human figure on the blade, not the Twins of the Solingen-made knives. ("Zwillingswerk" means "Twin works", the figures representing the astrological sign of Gemini.)

I have one GEC knife and one from Canal Street. Both are touted as premium knives, GEC mentioned in this topic. Neither is any better than my Puma and Carl Schlieper knives and the GEC has grind marks near one blade tang that are unacceptable in a premium priced knife.

I have a couple of Case knives and some genuine (US-made) Schrade Uncle Henrys that are very good value and nice knives. I have not tried the Chinese-made "Schrades" made by the new owner of that once famous US brand. Apart from the brush polish on the blades, the original Uncle Henry line are really good knives.

Be aware that some company has now also bought the Camillus brand. The genuine Camillus knives were very solid values and good knives, some actually being very well made.

Victorinox is the best knife value, I think, and has infinite variety in tools. But I'd look for an older Puma or Schlieper if I wanted a premium grade pocketknife at a reasonable price. Puma is getting pricey and collectible, though. I have a Stockman and a Model 943 lockblade hunter from Puma and one of their Buck 110-like folders. All are well made. (The current Model 943 has a different blade design. That line seems to be using main blades more like the old Model 959, I suppose for production economy.)

In "tactical" folders, I lean toward Benchmade and the Gerber Applegate-Fairbairn lines.
 
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I don't know if there is a best pocket Knife. I love Trappers best, and have a modest collection.
Case is a very good American made knife at a reasonable price.
Buck is another quality brand but watch out for chinese models. Buck subed out some of their knives for a while but they're back in the USA now!
I also have knives by Boker, Kershaw, Schrade, Hen & Rooster,
Kissing Crane, Smith & Wesson, Colt, Winchester, Benchmade, Cold Steel.
 
I like Buck. I also have Gerber, Camillus and Kershaw. I don't carry trapper style knives, all of mine are single blade lockers. Some liner lock, some lock back.

Sadly, Camillus is no more. Well, real Camillus. The name has been revived but the knives are different.
 
Kissing crane, Hen and Rooster, Eye brand, Henckels (no longer being made), basically any German made knife, Buck,Gerber,Kershaw...although got to watch the"American made" knife companies as they have several models that are made in china--not bad knives just kinda gets my goat.
 
Could someone please tell me where Rockwell test 56 to 58 means on my knife it's blade is made out of 440 Stainless steal.. The test sticker has a pointer with a little dot in the knife blade where they did the test... What does 56 to 58 Rockwell mean in the real world use as far as usefulness of this blade? Holding a edge and sharpening. Georgge
 
The Rockwell hardness test is used to gauge the steel. A higher number is harder to sharpen, but will hold an edge longer. If you go to high the blade becomes brittle.

I like a blade that is a little softer, as it is easier to sharpen. I always carry a steel & stone.

Use your google-foo for a formal explanation..
 
Rockwell "C" scale hardness has to be factored in with the abrasion resistance and other qualities of a given steel, but generally, with modern high carbon stainless steels, 58RC is about where you want to be.

Some steels can be as hard as 60RC or a trifle more and still not be brittle. 440C probably would begin to be brittle at that or a little higher hardness. But you have to factor in the heat treatment.

That can matter a lot. For instance, Buck uses (now) 420 steel, whch isn't especially highly regarded as a super steel when used by most makers. But Buck has a heat treatment devised by a celebrated artist in his field (Paul Bos) , and they get better results from 420 than do most manufacturers. And it retains its stainless qualities.

Go softer with most steels than 56RC and you start to lose edge retention. But at one time, Randall was using blades as soft as 53-54 RC. I know, because he told me this personally. I can only think his hand-forging imparted some additional quality, or that factory knives were even softer, or otherwise didn't have the abrasion resistance of his steels, or his would never have gotten such a fine reputation back then. I believe that present Randall knives average 56-58 RC. I was told that they were originally softer, as the maker believed that his customers couldn't sharpen hard blades well. I'm sure that he had plenty of feedback to lead him to reach that conclusion. But knife buyers and sharpening systems have gotten more sophisticated, and harder blades are now routine.

Laminated blades, mainly from Sweden, offer harder core steels sandwiched between softer sides to avoid brittleness that might cause weakness in a blade that was very hard throughout. The famous Mora knives are the best known, and at that relatively cheap level of quality, the laminated blade makes sense. But even in the far more sophisticated and expensive Fallkniven line, owner Peter Hjortberger told me that his VG-10 core blades with 420-J2 sides test some 25% stronger in deliberate breakage tests that involve deep bending in a vise. And the stainless qualities of 420 make it especially desirable for avoiding corrosion. Note that even before he began laminating blades, his solid VG-10 blades were among the toughest and most reliable of any stainless blades in those breakage trials. The tests were carried out at Swedish and US military facilities and at the Technical University of Lulea, Sweden. His knives were adopted for issue to Swedish pilots for survival knives that must perform in extreme conditions in savage cold in winter, to get a fire going if a pilot has to eject from a jet fighter like the Saab Griffon or Drakken.

Later, his F-1 and S-1 knives were placed on the order list for USAF and USN aircrew, with National Stock Numbers for units wanting to order the pricey knives for issue to their aircrews. This was before he began using the stronger laminated blades, so if you have an older Fallkniven knife with solid VG-10 blade, you still have a very strong, tough knife. (The A-1 model also passed trials, but is too large for the sheath on US survival vests. Norwegian forces also used the longer A-2 in Afghanistan and found it to perform very well under combat conditions.)

All knife steels have qualities that are trade offs between edge retention, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpeneing, and general strength. Rockwell "C" scale hardness is only one aspect of the equation. But in general, look for 56-58 RC in most better modern steels, as well as in non-stainless steel like old traditional 1095. Exceptional steels, like 154CM, can be heat treated to over 60 RC and still not be too hard...for that steel! The late R.W. Loveless made much of that when he began using 154 CM. But part of his hype was that added hardness, which got many people hung up on hardness alone. Don't forget the other qualities that keep a steel formula and heat treatment in balance.
 
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Texas Star,
Thank you for all that great information. I feel I have a much better knowledge of what to look for in a knife now if I'm going to be willing to spend more on a good carry knife.. I like a nice lock back.. I asked about the R Hardness do to the knife that I got that came with a sticker of hardness pointing to the test dimple in the blade stating it's hardness 56 to 58 made out of 440 stainless steal. I got the knife because of it's looks. It's not a expensive knife only $30 on a deep discounted sale.. Said it was a Buck Steal Warrior 1'st Production run limited to 1500 not that that meant anything to me other then I thought it was a Buck brand.. Well it Said China on the blade.. Anyway I did notice it was much harder to put a good edge on it then any other knife I have, even using a diamond steal it takes more time and more care for a good almost scary sharp edge.. I have not used the knife as it's not my type of carry knife so I don't know if or how long it will hold a edge.. But was interested in the steal quality do to the sticker on it pointing to that dimple.. I'm looking for about a 3 to 3 1/2" non serrated lock back of better the average steal for around $60 bucks or so.. I'm fussy and I sharpen my carry knife after every use on almost anything even opening a few envelopes.. I would think a decent knife should hold it's edge from just doing that and I don't want to have to sharpen it so much to keep the scary sharp edge I like to have on a knife.. George
 
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George-

I doubt that you have a real Buck, and it'd say "Steel" Warrior, not, "Steal", which has a different meaning! I've met members of the Buck family and know their history, and they are good Christians. I don't think they'd want anyone to "steal"! :D

That droll humor aside, look at their Model 112 Ranger, made here. They also used to make a knife about that size called the Duke, I think, not to be confused with the similar-named Puma. May still make it. Ask. It's more streamlined and sophisticated looking and lighter than the heavier brass-framed 110 and 112.

The Chinese maker probably got the idea for the RC sticker pointing to the indentation left by the test needle from Puma. Those stickers came on Puma blades for decades and may yet.
Only firm that used them, to my knowledge.

No idea what heat treatment your Chinese knife has or even if it it's really any 440 series steel. I have very low faith in Oriental-made knives.

I do not generally buy lockblade folders for $60 or less retail price, some Swiss Army designs being the exception. But they are not the sort of knife that you refer to. Maybe you can stay around that cost with a significant discount. I've read that Wally World has Buck knives at deep discount, and they are genuine US-made ones.

You 're overshapening your blades. They should hold an edge far better than needing that frequent a honing! Maybe you've had some really soft cheap blades? :confused: I wait until I see a noticeable dulling, enough to tell, then I hone on ceramic rods. Hone too often and you wear away the steel and have to re-bevel the edges.

My Swiss Army or other pocketknives do most of the cutting, so my lockblade folder in a belt pouch doesn't get used as often, and seldom needs honing. It stays ready for heavier work or ...emergencies.

Hint: if you have a Buck Model 110 or 112 or the similar Puma knives (Prince, Earl, Duke, Game Warden, etc. ) , the false edge is sharp enough to open most envelopes, sparing the actual edge.

Hmmm... have you tried looking for unsold Schrade Uncle Henry or LB-7 knives once made here? They may well be in your price range and are good,solid knives. The UH has stag Delrin scales and the LB-7 has wooden ones. They look a LOT like the Buck Model 110, and like the 110, blade length is about four inches. A bit larger than you stated, but a worthwhile thought.

A Puma model called, I think, the Model 0921 would be ideal for your stated size, but you won't see one for the price you quoted. Maybe for 3-4 times that.

Hey! I just recalled that Camillus (?) made some copies of the old Remington 1306 pattern for Remington about 1990. Stag Delrin scales, nickle silver bolsters, 440-A steel, I think. You may find one at a store or show for $60. That'd be a really good choice for so little money. I like mine a lot, and sometimes carry it. The blade just has a satin brush polish, but it is otherwise a nice knife. The same criticism is also true of the Schrade Uncle Henry line. They were very good values for money, if you don't insist on a brighter blade finish.
 
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