Looking for trigger improvment advice

[Jimtl]

I've had a 686+ for a couple of years. A few weeks ago a rep from S&W spent 2 days at a local gun shop. For a donation of $20 to the wounded warrior fund, he did a trigger job on revolvers. I brought in my 686+ and a 637. The 686 now has a DA pull around 8 1/2 lbs and a SA trigger of 3 1/2. No springs were replaced, just parts smoothed by the smith.

The trigger is smooth, but I guess I always want better. My question is will the trigger continue to lighten with use. I dry fired 2000+ times and the trigger pull measures the same.

I'd prefer not to replace the springs. Is there any way to reliably lighten the springs w/o replacement? Has anyone tried leaving a revolver cocked for a period of time-- unloaded of course? -- not sure if that would lighten the trigger pull. I'm guessing I'll need to take it to another smith for any improvement, but I thought I'd check here first. I did a search and couldn't find anything.


Thanks

Jim

 

[RHINOWSO]

Honestly, with most firearms I think the only way to truely 'lighten' them significantly is with spring changes. Smoothing them out does a little (poundage-wise) and more 'feel' (since they are smoother).

 

[scooter123]

If you have the trigger pull down to 8 1/2 lbs. with no spring changes, I would be inclined to call it good. Simple practice will resolve any accuracy issues and you won't be forced to only use ammunition using Federal Primers.

However, if you willing to commit to only using Federal primered ammunition, and can accept an occasional misfire, Brownells sells the Miculek kit that gets the pull down to a reputed 7 lbs. Link follows.

BANG : MICULEK REVOLVER SPRING KIT - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

BTW, assuming you have the frame mounted firing pin and if you do decide to try this kit, I would also suggest installing the 0.015 longer firing pin at the same time, it may provide an extra margin of reliability. Link follows.

CYLINDER & SLIDE : S&W REVOLVER EXTRA LENGTH FIRING PIN - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Finally, if you do try this, make sure and post the results, I'm sure that there are many of us who would be interested.

 

[Dale53]

I have both of my 625's with Miculek Spring kits installed. You can control the trigger pull weight within limits when doing a trigger job on a Smith. I stopped at 9.0 lbs. That works well for me (a long time double action pull user). I prefer my single action pulls to be as near 3.0 lbs as possible. My 625's carry that and I am HAPPY!!

There are those that prefer lighter weights. However, my revolvers must work with all primers (my personal belief) so they stay at my targeted poundage.

I also replace the firing pins with the "extra length" pins. Both Cylinder and Slide and Apex Tactical offer good pins for this purpose. My preference these days is Apex's "service" pin and return spring.

FWIW
Dale53

 

[Jimtl]

Thanks ... I think I'll just shoot it as is.

When I bought the gun, the clerk said he had the same model (686+ unfluted cylinder, 5") and he had put lighter springs ... When I took the CCW permit class from him, we used his gun. His gun had several light strikes during the session. I took note. Anyway ... thanks for the advice.

 

[d625]

The next step is the simplest and has no effect on the hammer strike force.

Replace the trigger return spring and polish the return slide. Wolff sells these springs in various reduced weights so you can experiment with lightening trigger returns until you find the lightest spring that returns the trigger reliably.

My experience has been a lighter trigger pull and no negative results of any kind.

 

[Jimtl]

The next step is the simplest and has no effect on the hammer strike force.



Replace the trigger return spring and polish the return slide. Wolff sells these springs in various reduced weights so you can experiment with lightening trigger returns until you find the lightest spring that returns the trigger reliably.

My experience has been a lighter trigger pull and no negative results of any kind.

I think that will be the next step for me. We have a talented local gun smith. I don't think I would try to install it ... I like the gun too much to mess it up

 

[m657]

One of the pleasures of S&W revolvers is being able to do a certain amount of 'home-care'. I've cautiously employed the Kuhnhausen manual to learn about my own and enjoy the results. I've learned a lot about diagnosing what issues to take to my 'smith and which ones I might resolve at home.

Spring replacement on a S&W is not "rocket surgery".

 

[katsass]

I agree that a polish job on the rebound slide and a lighter replacement rebound spring will help with you a lighter trigger without the light primer strike problem. When polishing the rebound slide remember to "break" the very sharp edge on the bottom back side. Round it slightly and polish smooth. Mike

 

[BillyWayne]

Get the Kuhnhausen book and the Miculek trigger job video. I have used both the Wilson springs and the Wolff springs. Changing springs is simple and does make a difference. Polishing is also easy enough. Just do not overdo it. I enjoy working on mine. It is all part of the experience.

 

[Ace-3]

I used the ISMI 10% reduced trigger return spring form Brownells and have never out run the trigger or had a problem with them. 10,000's of thousands of rounds. Quick, easy and noticeable.