Loose screws on new 610!

I've been using the polymer moon clips on my 25-2 without issues, so I don't think it's that. Different cartridge, but same principle. What primers are you using? If CCI, maybe they are just a tad on the hard side for your particular mainspring. When I got my 627 Pro, I had light strike issues with it in double action until I swapped out the S&W mainspring with a stock strength Wolff mainspring. I tried that S&W mainspring in a few other guns and had the same light strike in double action problem, so I know the problem was with the mainspring.
 
Nice pictures of nice revolvers......but I cannot see this purple loctite you speak so highly of, I looked and looked and just cannot see it.

Randy

PS. Glad you got things resolved!!
On the light primer strikes and the strain screw seems totally tight, you might try the old fired primer on the end of the strain screw trick. Would help in your diagnosis....
 
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Good news from the range. I was shooting 10mm, and after about 150 rounds shooting DA, not one light primer strike. I wonder if it is a moonclip issue with the 40S&W, since they can't headspace without the clip. You can shoot 10mm without moonclips in the gun. All the other screws still seem tight as well, so I think she's a keeper.

Next time I go shooting 40S&W in it, I will use the metal clips instead and see if I can reproduce the problem. But for now, it is 100%
 
After reading this thread, I checked on my Model 442, which has been shot 10 times. Yep, the latch screw was loose and so I tightened it. Checked my other Smith revolvers, which were fine.
 
Is screws coming loose the norm on s&w revolvers?

I've had screws come loose on my ruger SBH but that was with very hot loads.
 
Have shot the ever loving hound out of my revolvers for 40 years. Every one I ever bought, the first thing I did was clean it up, make sure it had oil at the right spots, etc. This was just routine since almost all the guns I've ever owned were used ... no way to know if previous owner had done routine cleaning, etc. Bought a just about new 15-4 a few weeks ago. Hardly used at all. Stiff action. Did normal routine cleaning, etc. Dramatic improvement. Delightful revolver to handle, shoot. Just needed a simple cleaning and some oil. Would have to say ... always go over simple things like screws, etc. Just common sense. Don't need to cinch them down like a stove bolt. But make them good and snug. Purple LockTite is really helpful if a particular screw doesn't want to cooperate and stay snug. JMHO. Sincerely. bruce.
 
The rubber grip just fell apart! The thing the screw goes into looks like it separated from the rubber. This gun is a lemon! Calling the mothership for help today!
 
The rubber grip just fell apart! The thing the screw goes into looks like it separated from the rubber. This gun is a lemon! Calling the mothership for help today!

The gun doesn't need to go back to S&W for the grips; they will probably just send you a pair to replace the defective ones if you ask. :)

But, I would suggest that you treat your gun and yourself to a set of great looking and fitting stocks from a quality stock maker such as John Culina, Keith Brown or the Nills grips from across the pond. I highly recommend John Culina and his stocks as they look fantastic and more importantly, feel fantastic when shooting. I find they are more comfortable for me than the rubber jobs, even on my 44 Mag guns. John is a member here on the forums (Kurac is his forum name) and his wife is also. They can generally get you a nice finished set in 6 months or less and believe me, they are worth waiting for. To give you an idea of what they can look like on a stainless steel revolver. These are Italian Olive Targets on my 629-3 Classic.







EDIT:BTW, I brought my 627 Pro to the range last week and ran almost 200 rounds through it and guess what. By the time I was finished shooting, the cap nut that holds the cylinder release thumb latch had started working loose. It's something you need to check on occasionally if you don't use purple loctite on some of the screws on the guns.
 
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I can try seating the primers a touch deeper, but they are already slightly below flush.

Somehow I missed this statement the first time I read the post.

Your primers are not properly seated.

Primers are ALWAYS to be seated as far as they will go into the pocket. You should not be trying to seat them flush

If the anvil of the primer is not contacting the primer pocket floor, some of your firing pin energy is being used to finish seating the primer and any remaining energy is used to crush the priming compound

This is what is causing your light strikes
 
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Somehow I missed this statement the first time I read the post.

Your primers are not properly seated.

Primers are ALWAYS to be seated as far as they will go into the pocket. You should not be trying to seat them flush

If the anvil of the primer is not contacting the primer pocket floor, some of your firing pin energy is being used to finish seating the primer and any remaining energy is used to crush the priming compound

This is what is causing your light strikes

It was the moonclips, I've fired hundreds of the same rounds in my M&P40 and they all go off fine. The 10mm loads also work fine. The other day I still had one FTF from a light strike on a 40, but none on the 10s...
 
I know how to tighten screws ;) I was just thinking that if there were some quality issues that I can see, perhaps there are others that may be less obvious.

I will add some purple Loctite to my next Amazon cart. Otherwise the gun is a beauty, with a very nice trigger given that it isn't really broken in yet.

As others have mentioned, I also use purple Loctite for troublesome fasteners with good success. Sometimes all that's really needed is de-greasing the fastener and mating threads. If one follows Loctite instructions, de-greasing is needed anyhow. So the success of purple Loctite may just be a belt and suspenders solution. At any rate, it works and the fasteners can be disassembled when needed.
 
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