Lube for gun in drawer

[Gamecock]

I have guns located around the house. Loaded, ready to be grabbed if needed. Recently, I took a pistol out of a drawer to check it. The lube was all dried up. I suspect it would have shot once, then jammed. I field stripped it, cleaned it, and re-lubed it.

I checked the other guns, and had to clean/lube all of the pistols. The revolvers were generally okay.

So question is, is there a lube that will retain its consistency over a long time, like 5 years?

 

[BillBond]

A gun that is never shot doesn't need that much lube.

 

[TJm15.38]

Most modern semi-autos shouldn't need a bunch of lube applied periodically to make them function. I have a Glock 19 that I think I could absolutely store completely dry and it would function. Too much lube can also be a bad thing that will gum up a gun after time. In my opinion, this is one of the best lubes on the market:

Access Denied

ALG will not gum up over time and it's recommended by a lot o high end trigger manufacturers like Giessle.

 

[murphydog]

I have kept guns stored using plain Break Free CLP for that amount of time and had no problems with waxy buildup.

 

[chief38]

House guns that sit around loaded need only MINIMAL lubrication. They should also be cleaned and lubed at least twice a year, but again, LIGHTLY. Just because a gun is not shot does not mean it should be neglected.

I have an 870 HD SG that I routinely unload, clean, lightly lube and check function on once every 6 months. I check the Buckshot as well prior to reloading it.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Many common lubricants are petroleum distillates. Some are organic, either vegetable oils or animal secretions. Some are metallic soaps.

Some of today's popular brands consist of little more than vegetable oils (like canola) with coloring and scents added. Instead of several dollars for a small applicator we can do just as well with the quart of canola in the kitchen cabinet.

Most lubes will show some tendencies toward evaporation and/or oxidation over time. Also, atmospheric moisture and airborne particulates (dust, grit, lint, etc) can collect in the lube and result in a congealed mess.

Many years ago I knew most of the gunsmiths and competition shooters in the US Army Marksmanship Training Unit at Fort Benning, GA. Each seemed to have his own preferences and opinions. One of the best pistol competitors there kept his pistols dripping with machine oil. Another one used nothing but graphite lubricant, using a carpenter's pencil rubbed over all bearing surfaces. One guy swore by heavily oiling the cartridges in his magazines immediately prior to each session. One of the gunsmiths swore by sperm oil (harvested from the brains of sperm whales, frequently used by watch and clock makers and precision tool operators).

Over the years I have used machine oil, white lithium grease, graphite-infused grease, and (for several competition seasons) I kept my revolver lockwork lubed with Vaseline petroleum jelly. After years of tinkering I have settled into a routine of regular maintenance, more frequent for the pieces in regular use than for the ones that see only a few uses.

In my opinion, nothing is absolute or permanent, nothing is perfect for every application. I think any firearm requires periodic inspection and service to remain reliable.

 

[mauser9]

Breakfree CLP sounds good.

 

[Gamecock]

I have some Break Free CLP. I'll give it a try.

Thanks all!

 

[Bald1]

Good old fashioned 3in1 oil in metal can with red plastic tip. Very easy to direct small amounts where you want it. It worked in 1894 and it'll work in 2024

 

[Autonomous]

Do not consider WD-40 as a lubricant, it dries out quickly and can leave residue behind.

5 years? You need to do better than that...

 

[dfariswheel]

I keep my Kahr Arms K9 CCW lubed with Super Lube grease and oil.
The grease is a stiff type, the oil is a "thin grease-thick oil" consistency that stays right where it's put, and never drys out, creeps away, turns to gummy varnish or otherwise stops lubricating.

Both are a full synthetic Teflon bearing lube, and good from -45 to +450.
I've serviced customer revolvers and autos I'd serviced as much as 10 years previous and the Super Lube was still there and working.

Once as an experiment I lubed the K9 and carried it in a Blackhawk fanny pack for a year with NO service.
At the end of the year I took it out and fired all three magazines with no problem, and after disassembly, the Super Lube was still good.

For just home storage, CLP Breakfree is excellent, and possibly even better is CLP Breakfree Collector.
It's LP without the C and is thicker. It's made for long term storage.

 

[Nick B]

I keep my Kahr Arms K9 CCW lubed with Super Lube grease and oil.
The grease is a stiff type, the oil is a "thin grease-thick oil" consistency that stays right where it's put, and never drys out, creeps away, turns to gummy varnish or otherwise stops lubricating.

Both are a full synthetic Teflon bearing lube, and good from -45 to +450.
I've serviced customer revolvers and autos I'd serviced as much as 10 years previous and the Super Lube was still there and working.

Once as an experiment I lubed the K9 and carried it in a Blackhawk fanny pack for a year with NO service.
At the end of the year I took it out and fired all three magazines with no problem, and after disassembly, the Super Lube was still good.

For just home storage, CLP Breakfree is excellent, and possibly even better is CLP Breakfree Collector.
It's LP without the C and is thicker. It's made for long term storage.

Are you talking about the Super Lube grease that is almost clear in color ?

 

[AJ]

This will be sacrilege to some, but I rarely if ever lubricate house guns. I wipe them down about once a year with an lightly oiled cloth. I check them for function at that time. All work as advertised.

 

[Tex1001]

I have 3 house guns, 2 autos and 1 revolver. All sit for years.
A VERY LIGHT smear of Ed's Red stays in place and never gets
gummy.

 

[Racer X]

Are you talking about the Super Lube grease that is almost clear in color ?

I use it on my semi autos. A swipe on each rail and rack a few times, then load. And wipe down the blued ones.

 

[Bald1]

This will be sacrilege to some, but I rarely if ever lubricate house guns. I wipe them down about once a year with an lightly oiled cloth. I check them for function at that time. All work as advertised.

Exactly, in addition to that I've pulled guns from the back of my safe that have not seen daylight in 5-10 yrs. They all function flawlessly

 

[Super Trucker]

I've used BreakFree CLP since the early 90's without issue. The military used it back then so that was a good endorsement for me.

On units like you're describing, I use a non aresol bottle and q-tip to hit the lube points and lightly cover the outside and call it good.
When I say "lightly" I mean you can pick it up, rack the slide and not have to wash your hands.

 

[dfariswheel]

Are you talking about the Super Lube grease that is almost clear in color ?

It's a clear-white color.
It's made by Synco and can be bought direct or in many local stores.
Best types are the grease, the oil, and the spray cans of grease.
The spray can grease is about the thickness of the oil.

https://www.super-lube.com/

 

[pasound]

I've used Break Free CLP since the early 90's. Nothing has ever failed to rotate or cycle in all those years. I do inspect my "house" guns every 7-8 weeks, though.

 

[taz666]

For semi-autos I've used a light coating of regular bearing grease. These lubricants work well in applications of high pressure.

 

[chief38]

Guns in drawers still attract dust even if the drawer is normally not opened much but nowhere's near as much as if carried every day. The reason I use a very light application is because not only will it attract dust, very wet lubricant will migrate to the lower parts of however the gun is laying in the drawer. You do NOT want your ammo sitting in oil! Even Remoil, which many don't like because it's so thin and evaporates quickly is a good drawer lube specifically because it dries, leaves a protective coating and doesn't migrate. While Remoil does not normally get used on my guns anymore, it would make a good oil for night stand guns.

I will confess that I have never used anything but a specifically purposed gun oil. I leave the automotive grease, household greases and other oils for their intended purposes. I know many here use other lubes not intended for guns and I might be just getting sucked in, but that's just what I do. For the few bucks it cost, I just get a good feeling of doing the right thing - again, maybe I am being duped.

 

[old tanker]

...One of the gunsmiths swore by sperm oil...

Sperm oil was often the Army's specified lubricant in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century manuals.

From the 1940 edition of FM-23-35 AUTOMATIC PISTOL, CAL. .45, M1911 AND M19I1A1

"CAUTION.—After firing do not oil the bore before cleaning.
c. Saturate a clean flannel patch with sperm oil and swab
the bore and chamber with the patch, making certain that
the bore and all metal parts of the pistol are covered with a
thin coat of oil.'

Sperm oil works really well but it's virtually impossible to get these days. This can is the better part of seventy years old, but the oil in it's still as good as the day it was sold. These days I restrict it to clocks and watches. There's no way to replace it.

 

[dfariswheel]

Sperm whale oil was one of the best available fine lubricants way back when, but modern synthetic lubes have far out passed it.

What remains is just an almost mystical reputation.
As it became unavailable it's reputation has grown.

 

[mauser9]

Was about to mention Rem-Oil myself. Does seem to be thinner and says it contains teflon or used to. Use it on my knives and guns along with CLP. Good wipe down stuff on exterior metals

 

[pasound]

Or there is Dixie Gun Works Synthetic Sperm Whale Oil.

 

[stu1ritter]

Kano Labs, the folks who bring you Kroil make a fine gun lube called Microil.
From their website..........
"Microil lubricates bearings and mechanisms in precision instruments, gauges, meters, clocks, micrometers, counters, controls, firearms, light machinery, office machines and other small mechanisms. Low viscosity, low evaporation formula lubricates to -50° F. It is non-corrosive, and will not gum. 50-State VOC Compliant."

I have been using it on my guns for over 50 years and there isn't anything much better.

Stu

 

[Oldengineer]

It's been over 50 years since I took organic chemistry class, but recall that long branch chain hydrocarbons are prone to oxidation. When this happens, they leave behind sticky wax like compounds. I've used 0-20 Mobil 1 synthetic oil to avoid the oxidation concern. Think synthetic and lots of lubrication tasks get better.

 

[pasound]

I use Mobile-1 in my car. Not sure if I'm ready to use it in my guns. Still a CLP fan.

 

[oink]

Breakfree CLP, at least the earlier stuff, will dry out and get sticky given enough time.

I'm not very lubricant loyal. Some Rem Oil, some Breakfree, Lucas, Breakthrough HP Pro L&P, Straight Walgreens mineral oil that I use on my Arkansas stones.

 

[Rpg]

I've used several products but settled on any light machine oil.

Products denominated sewing machine oil are sort of the name brand of light machine oil.

A few drops on an old cotton T shirt, wipe it down and repeat every time you use the gun. I've never seen this product gum up a gun overtime and I've got a couple guns I treated when I was given them for Christmas in 2011 and haven't shot or handled extensively since I got them. I do check them every year or two,