Lube for semi-auto pistols
- Thread starter Shootist1954
- Start date
In general I agree with the slide/rotate guideline mentioned, but it is not quite that simple. It will be on an M&P because nothing there fits tight.
I am something of a lubrication bon vivant and am always on the prowl for something new. I probably have more little tubes, bottles and jars of grease and oil sitting around than most, and they will all work OK for the M&P. I prefer something with Molysulfide, for a new gun in particular, but to be honest I am more interested in the type of container the grease comes in than the grease itself. If it is a nifty little tube with a pointy nozzle that I can use to easily get that grease right where I want it with minimum mess, I think it is the berries!
For the rotators, I have been known to steal Blue Juice from the son's trumpet case for the barrel of the yoke in my S&Ws, but I will lower myself to Rem-Oil or, better still, Browning Gun Oil, if I have to. Those containers with the little metal needle that assists in dropping that oil exactly where you want it are - as the young people like to say - "the bomb!"
For those in-between applications I cling to the remains of my supply of beloved LSA.
When it comes to lubricating your pistols, style is everything.
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Harrison
US Veteran
for pistols clean with Ed's Red and lube with Red Oil. It's OK to use a good lithium grease on semi-auto slides and rails. I would not let WD-40 within 50 feet of any firearm I cared about. WD-40 has its uses, but firearms are not among them.
AzRedleg
Member
I use ATF. A quart doesn't cost much and a little goes a really long way.
Mobil 1
I have a quart of 5-30 synthetic Mobil 1 and a small can of Peak RED synthetic grease. Now, If I dont spill or knock over either, I will have gun protection for GENERATIONS.
Actually these are reserve, but one Quart of oil costs almost the same as a tiny needle tipped applicator of similar oil but ony get maybe 1/2 oz.
The same with the grease in a syringe. My grease is on the tip of a bamboo skewer.
Chuck
I have a quart of 5-30 synthetic Mobil 1 and a small can of Peak RED synthetic grease. Now, If I dont spill or knock over either, I will have gun protection for GENERATIONS.
Actually these are reserve, but one Quart of oil costs almost the same as a tiny needle tipped applicator of similar oil but ony get maybe 1/2 oz.
The same with the grease in a syringe. My grease is on the tip of a bamboo skewer. Chuck
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Grease is fine, but if the person who told you this was telling you that you should not use gun oil on the M&P, then that person is "full of it."
Grease will stay a little longer, but some grease will also become sluggish in the cold.
Most any gun oil will be fine. I use Breakfree CLP. There are as many opinions about the "best" gun oil as there are you-know-whats.
If you insist on grease, Wilson Combat makes a really nifty gun grease that comes in an applicator that looks like a syringe allowing very precise placement of the grease. The M&P, like the Glock, does not need to be "wet" or so lubed that you get a shower each time the slide functions.
The manual suggests one drop of "high quality firearms lubricant" in 7 strategic locations. See the manual at page 23. Follow the instructions in the manual. If you don't have one, you can view or download online at S&W's web site.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson2/upload/other/M&P_Pistol_Manual_10-30-2012.pdf
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Lube is always better than no lube, and just about any will work.
That said, I mainly use Wilson Combat lubes.
Biggest reason is that in comes in nice no-mess applicator bottles.
That said, I mainly use Wilson Combat lubes.
Biggest reason is that in comes in nice no-mess applicator bottles.
Oil
I ran into a S&W armoror at my local gun store when I brought my 9mm Shield in for repair, the trigger got stuck in the all the way back position. He fixed it in two seconds and notices I lightly greased the rails and gave me some light hearted **** about it. He told me any kind of oil, just one drop, 3 in 1 oil works just fine too. he said. He said grease is a magnet for dust and powder residue. So I switched to oil.
I ran into a S&W armoror at my local gun store when I brought my 9mm Shield in for repair, the trigger got stuck in the all the way back position. He fixed it in two seconds and notices I lightly greased the rails and gave me some light hearted **** about it. He told me any kind of oil, just one drop, 3 in 1 oil works just fine too. he said. He said grease is a magnet for dust and powder residue. So I switched to oil.
Lee's Landing Billy
Member
I don't care what you use. You should not care what I use. Use whatever you want, I'll do the same.
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Yes, Grease is a dust magnet - no argument! That is why when I do use grease I make sure to fully remove all of it at the end of the shooting session and re-grease with a fresh batch. In some instances, even though I need to go through the removal and re-greasing I do like the performance of it over oil on certain guns under certain circumstances.
I use different lubes for different applications on different guns. I use Rig +P grease on my 1911 rails but a light oil (Rig #2 Oil) on internal parts. On my S&W M41 I use Rig #2 oil internally but Birchwood Casey Synthetic oil on the slide rails. In Military WWll rifles I use GI Grease as per their recommendations. On my Revolvers I use a light oil that evaporates the carrier. It also depends on how cold it is, where I am, how long I will be out in the cold, etc.
At the end of the day, cleaning and lubrication of what ever your favorite products happen to be is the important thing. Having the best lubricant in the world and not using it often or properly is the worst thing.
I use different lubes for different applications on different guns. I use Rig +P grease on my 1911 rails but a light oil (Rig #2 Oil) on internal parts. On my S&W M41 I use Rig #2 oil internally but Birchwood Casey Synthetic oil on the slide rails. In Military WWll rifles I use GI Grease as per their recommendations. On my Revolvers I use a light oil that evaporates the carrier. It also depends on how cold it is, where I am, how long I will be out in the cold, etc.
At the end of the day, cleaning and lubrication of what ever your favorite products happen to be is the important thing. Having the best lubricant in the world and not using it often or properly is the worst thing.
bmcgilvray
Member
I've been using Singer oil ever since I raided my mother's sewing machine of her can of the stuff back in about 1968.
Most important thing to do is to avoid neglect. Maintain the firearms in the collection, after they've been used and even if they are stored away.
Most important thing to do is to avoid neglect. Maintain the firearms in the collection, after they've been used and even if they are stored away.
OLDSTER
Member
Another fan of Mobil-1 5-30 Synthetic oil. I've been using it on fine revolvers and semi-autos for many years. Nothing performs better.
The OP hasn't logged on in a year and a half. I think he has figured it out by now.
