Lubrication question - confused

PhilBob

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I am new to handguns so I have relied on forums like this and YouTube videos to gain expertise. Just about every cleaning example or instruction talks about lubricating sparingly and at specific places on the gun. Yet, at my LTC class, before the range session the instructors had us clear our weapons and lock the slide back for inspection. They then proceeded to spray lubricant liberally along the barrel and into the extraction port, stating that most failures are due to guns being not lubricated enough.

So, which is it? Use lubrication sparingly or liberally?
 
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The problems with liberal lubing is the lube acts as a dirt and grit magnet. Additionally, spray lubes will get into everything and eventually harden up which can cause failures. Depending on the lube used, extreme cold weather can turn lubes to honey.

I have always been conservative on lubrication never using more than a drop on the slide rails on the semi autos or on the cylinder rod on the revolver.
 
Yet, at my LTC class, before the range session the instructors had us clear our weapons and lock the slide back for inspection

That instructor is unprofessional. You can stuff an old 1911 with wet almost anything and it will run. If you have a metal gun that has not been properly lubed, soaking it will get it running, even if it is a mess.

Spraying the whole inside of my M&P with lube is idiotic, and will cause it to gum up, maybe not today, and that bone-head instructor either does not know or not care about the problems it is going to cause, requiring detailed stripping and cleaning.

In carry classes, the "three strikes rule" is appropriate. Your gun jams three times, you put it away and use my loaner. We are not going to work on your gun in class; you can see the gunsmith later.
 
I use Magnalube grease on the slide rails of all my semi auto's. It's not super thick but stays wherever you put it and doesn't dry up. Personally, I feel grease does a better job on metal to metal parts that slide against each other. Using this method I've never had a problem. I don't see any need to spray lube into the ejection port as that just becomes a dirt trap that catches everything eventually building up. Both grease and oil attract dirt and dust so keeping that to a minimum, especially on a carry gun, to me is important.

I also have buddies that use oil instead of grease. Just a light coat of oil and they don't have any problems either. The whole oil vs. grease thing is completely debatable so my suggestion is to try both and go with what works best for you. Don't even bring up the "which oil is better" question since that's like starting a religion or politics debate. Most of the gun specific oils are fine and a lot of folks even use motor oil which works too.
 
I am new to handguns so I have relied on forums like this and YouTube videos to gain expertise. Just about every cleaning example or instruction talks about lubricating sparingly and at specific places on the gun. Yet, at my LTC class, before the range session the instructors had us clear our weapons and lock the slide back for inspection. They then proceeded to spray lubricant liberally along the barrel and into the extraction port, stating that most failures are due to guns being not lubricated enough.

So, which is it? Use lubrication sparingly or liberally?
Having taught/qualified police officers over 20 years I can see how the instructor lubing up those guns would ease up a range day. Gun Hygiene is a class just most people skip.
 
Good info above...
So what's a really good cleaner and oil to lube your gun??

On this subject and just received this email about this all in one gun oil & cleaner.
Anyone ever tried Wolf Oil??
Thanks
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Good info above...
So what's a really good cleaner and oil to lube your gun??

On this subject and just received this email about this all in one gun oil & cleaner.
Anyone ever tried Wolf Oil??
Thanks

I'm a firm believer in using a cleaner for cleaning and a lube for lubing and generally stay away from an all-in-one product.

I'm not sure but there has to be a reason Hoppes #9 has been around for ever. It's a great cleaner for everything but the worst copper fouling. Outside of the grease I use for slide rails, I use RemOil for general lubrication and rust protection for all my guns that get used often. For the safe queens that go a year or more just sitting in the safe doing nothing they get a very light coat of Rotella T 15w40 and when they do come out to be shot they get a quick cleaning before going to the range.

My gun safe is bolted to the concrete floor in my garage (it ain't going nowhere!) which isn't temperature controlled. I use the large Golden Rod dehumidifier and have never had an issue with rust since I started wiping them down with the Rotella. Most good motor oils have a very good rust preventative additive in them.
 
Being wet covers ills.....

A gun shouldn't have to be run sopping wet to perform well, though I have There are specific points that need lube, and then not excessively. Lube over everything just causes the gun to be slippery mess and a crud magnet. The excess lube my be covering for glitches that need fixing.

I read the manual and do what it says. They usually give key points that need a drop of lube/
 
I've been using Hopps and some sort of gun oil, sparingly, since I first started as a young cop in 1968. Haven't changed a thing (clean & oil after every range outing) and all my guns run fine. The range officer at my former agency recently told me that the Glocks run better with very little lube on the rails & internals. If you follow the manufacturer's instructions you should not have any problems.
 
I usually just check out the owner's manual and follow the instructions accordingly. I would backhand somebody who started spraying my pistol with oil . . .
I aggree my friend but on qualification day many times when I did a pre qual pistol inspection some troops guns were dryer than the Texas panhandle at high noon on July 4th.
 
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