Lucy's new model 3 frontier .44 winchester ctg

[JSR III]

Boy, you guys got some real good eyes.

 

[Oliversound]

What a bad surprise!!

someone has a picture of how it should be, to understand where the problem is?
Thanks for your time, and as James sais, really god eyes!
I want to understand the problem, to arrive to solve it.
Here's another picture, and yes it moves free over his axe.
Can you identify the part on the diagram? what number is it?
307B?
What's his job?
Thanks!

 

[Oliversound]

Hello Larry and Mike , thanks for your answers do you think i can buy a replacement part?
Where?
Thanks

 

[Oliversound]

Ok, i was investigating a bit, and i've seen a stirrup on ebay for the S&W K L N frames.

I'e asked the seller if it can be compatible with the 44 DA, and answered : "it should work" what's your opinion?.
Thanks again

Here' the replacement part.

 

[JSR III]

I"m no gunsmith and I typically work with wood not metal. That is the correct ID of the part but not sure if the size is the same.

I need a hand for a 1 1/2 new model and tried swapping it with the one in my Model 2 Army. It did not work.

If the stirrup on eBay is close, you may be able to file it in some way to make it fit. I could not do that with the model 2 hand as then I would need one for it.

Since I need parts for both my 1 1/2 and model 2, I can tell you that they are not easy to come buy unless you find someone with a junker that they are parting out. Even then, the parts get sold quickly so you have to be first on the scene. Good luck.

 

[mmaher94087]

"I'e asked the seller if it can be compatible with the 44 DA, and answered : "it should work" what's your opinion?." I don't know if it will work or not. If the price is low enough then it might be worth a try. The stirrup will go in two ways; try them both if the first doesn't work. Be very careful when cocking the hammer as the mainspring may bind on the hammer and break. That is a very costly spring to replace.

 

[Oliversound]

Thanks James and Mike for your coments
I´ve bought the part on ebay, let's see if it works.

Now: procedure. I need help again....

How can i remove the pin that take it in place the stirrup?
What's the best procedure to mount the new? and to atach it to the mainspring??

Thanks for your opinions again

Fabian

 

[mmaher94087]

The pin holding the stirrup to the hammer is easily punched out. I either use a bag of #7 1/2 shot or two (~1/4") pieces of Latago leather; the type that saddles are made of - and place the part on top. I punch the pin out from the left side but have found no difference (no taper) in pins. I recommend Brownell's 'cupped' pin punches as they do not slip off the rounded S&W pins nor do they "flatten" the end of the pin when hit.

The variable that I'm ignorant of is the relative length between the base pin hole and the cross-pin that holds the mainspring. That dimension is critical but a very minor variance can be remedied. Check your replacement part with the old part.

Next, see if the new part will fit. The base (the rounded portion where the stirrup/hammer pin goes) may be too large and may need filing. Also the upper, curved portion may need filing to give it some relief on the hammer.

The attaching of the mainspring can be a chore. There are a few different ways to accomplish this feat. My way: I install the mainspring (centered on the frame; side-to-side) and tighten the strain screw until it bottoms out. With the hammer, hand and stirrup installed in the revolver, I take a shaved dowel or flat-blade screwdriver and lever the mainspring down enough to catch the stirrup. Stirrup lays on the hammer, then the mainspring is 'bent'; then the stirrup is flipped through the ears of the mainspring and pressure is relieved on the mainspring seating the cross-pin of the stirrup in the recess of the mainspring.

Good luck and keep us informed.

 

[Oliversound]

Hello Mike, very very clear. Thanks for your response.
If everything works, need i to lubricate it with a light grease or i can use W40?, just on the center pin, or in the mainspring-stirrup contact surface too?

Txs all!

 

[JSR III]

The way that I did mine was to put the hammer at about half cock with the strain screw loosened so that no part of it extends inside the frame. I then hooked the spring (the claw like part) under the T pin that protrudes from the stirrup. At this point, the spring bottom is not in the recess at the bottom of the grip frame. I slowly cock the hammer back while directing the spring bottom into the slot at the bottom of the grip frame. Once it bottoms out, I tighten the strain screw to hold it in place and add a little tension to the spring. If you cannot hold the spring to align with the slot while cocking the hammer, you may have to use something to wedge it over. A dowel or a wedge shaped piece of wood placed inside the frame may do the trick.

I've had mine in and out several times while removing the hand stud and trying the Model 2 army hand and it went in very easily each time.

 

[Oliversound]

Thanks James for your explanation, clear.
I guess to loosen the stirrup i need to take of the hammer assembly to free the pin..i'm right?

txs again

 

[mmaher94087]

Take the hammer out of the frame then drift the stirrup pin out. A light oil should be applied to the pivot pin and cross pin. I use Rem-oil or Hoppies gun oil.

 

[Oliversound]

Thanks Mike.