M 36 trigger serrated

Harold45-

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The trigger on my M 36 is serrated. The serrations go clear to the end and are quite sharp. The end of the trigger feels like a hack saw blade. I wish the trigger was smooth as I feel like it would work better. Is this true for all J frames?
 

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Not all models come with the serrated trigger. There is a smooth trigger available that is a bit wider (.312" MIM #22877) than the standard trigger.

Much more comfortable, although I still have to profile the very bottom of the trigger to soften the rather sharp edge there.

I believe a smooth forged trigger .347" wide was also offered at one time, part number 22593. The MIM triggers have a different stirrup and hand spring design than the older "pinned" triggers.
 
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The original Chiefs Specials had smooth triggers. S&W's Engineering Change #313 on September 14, 1951, changed the smooth trigger to a serrated trigger. The standard for Chiefs and subsequently after 1958, the Model 36, was a serrated trigger until about 1983 when the standard became the .312" wide smooth combat trigger.
 
I have a Flat Latch model 36 no dash and the trigger was serrated. BTW, it's a Sock Drawer Special, no evidence of any firing at all when I got it and pin prick rust spots on the side plate. Which makes it a shooter so it's now been well shot. After the first time using it I got out my dremel and took care of that bundle of razor blades. Now there are enough of the serrations left to provide traction but it won't leave you bleeding after shooting a box of 38 specials. Other issues was a mainspring that produced a 15 lbs. trigger pull in DA and the factory wood grips were much too tiny. Installed a Wolff spring kit, polished the spring strut, and replaced the factory grips with a Hogue monogrip. One of these days I'll get around to boiling the side plate but for now I keep it waxed.

BTW, some may be a bit disappointed that I "tinkered with an Original" but it was a flawed original and not worth spit as a defensive handgun. BTW, what idiot decided tiny grips that require resetting the hold on the gun after every shot thought that was a good idea. The older I get the more I get peeved by flat out stupid "engineering" choices. Really, a defensive handgun and they put grips on it that effectively made it a single shot firearm.
 
Here are the 3 CCH ones I've seen. Left one is smooth, other 2 are serrated.

But I have seen lots of Flash Chromed smooth ones in the .3065 width.
 

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I really do not like the serrated trigger. Still buy the J older J frames. It is not a deal breaker. The .312 smooth trigger feels SOOO much better than serrated. I swapped serrated for smooth on a few revolvers. Maybe got a bit lucky because they all dropped right into place.
 
With a few exceptions I shoot all of my S&Ws DA. All of the trigger options except for the wide target trigger work for me.

I have a model 36 that has been in my family for over 50 years. Needless to say it has been fired a lot and most of it DA. The DA is light and smooth. It still has the serrated trigger. The serrations do not cause any problems for me but I can understand how it may bother some shooters. I also have some older guns with smooth narrow triggers and a model 67 no dash with semi wide smooth trigger that was installed at the factory during an action job. This in my favorite revolver for DA shooting.
 
I really do not like the serrated trigger. Still buy the J older J frames. It is not a deal breaker. The .312 smooth trigger feels SOOO much better than serrated. I swapped serrated for smooth on a few revolvers. Maybe got a bit lucky because they all dropped right into place.

I friend of mine who worked at S&W had a very nice Model 40. He had installed the wider smooth trigger and smoothed up the action. I fired it at the club and got some tight two hand groups on our indoor 50 ft range. I tried my 36 next with the same ammo and I shot just as well.

So I would say that you are totally correct that the original forged serrated trigger should not be a deal breaker.
 
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