M&P 15-22 accuracy

jamesy13

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Hi Guys.

First of all, thanks for letting my join and first time poster.

I have a 15-22 and I am having some strange accuracy issues that I cant figure out. The rifle groups ok but the point of aim isnt consistent. I shoot a group at 50 yards, which is maybe an inch low and an inch to the right. I adjust the scope 2 clicks up and to the left and then its suddenly shooting 2 inches high. I finally get a group near centre and then the next group will be an inch high again.
I thought the issue was with my strike eagle 1-6, Votex replaced that scope and I upgraded to a Viper pst gen2 1-6. same issue. I tried with soundmod on and off with no change. I have checked torque setting on the rings and all are good.

I am using Vortex pro rings 2 piece.

Any help would very much appreciated.

Cheers
Gwyn
 
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Have you tried different types of ammo. I have a first generation 15-22 with a Nikon P-22 scope. I use a bipod when shooting out to 50 yards. I find that 40 grain round nose (not hollow points) group the best at that yardage.
 
I’m not sure how to do it, but I’d check to see that the barrel isn’t loose. I had that issue shooting mine suppressed, but the issue went away after removing the suppressor.
 
Have you tried different types of ammo. I have a first generation 15-22 with a Nikon P-22 scope. I use a bipod when shooting out to 50 yards. I find that 40 grain round nose (not hollow points) group the best at that yardage.

Hi there. Yes used a few different types. Currently using CCI subs.
 
I’m not sure how to do it, but I’d check to see that the barrel isn’t loose. I had that issue shooting mine suppressed, but the issue went away after removing the suppressor.

I did read about this, difficult without the tool though. Might have to get one.
 
Before spending much money, use the same ammunition during your outing. Even different lots of the same stuff will group differently. That has been my experience, anyway....
 
Sounds to me more like you're experiencing a parallax issue more than an ammo issue. Since you say it groups ok but minor shifts in point of impact at 50 yards. The scope(s) that you're using are set for parallax free at 100 yards. You're shooting at 50 yards so if you're not perfectly behind your scope exactly the same way each and every time you pull the trigger, you will experience exactly what you are talking about. Either get a scope with parallax set at 50 yards, or, a scope that has an AO or SF.
 
Sounds to me more like you're experiencing a parallax issue more than an ammo issue. Since you say it groups ok but minor shifts in point of impact at 50 yards. The scope(s) that you're using are set for parallax free at 100 yards. You're shooting at 50 yards so if you're not perfectly behind your scope exactly the same way each and every time you pull the trigger, you will experience exactly what you are talking about. Either get a scope with parallax set at 50 yards, or, a scope that has an AO or SF.

Very interesting, never considered that. Right I think the only thing to do is test this is put one of my other scopes on that I can set to 50 yards and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Could also be an issue of tensioning the barrel and flexing it some.

The handguard is not free floated, so sandbagging it might put tension one direction, then offhand, tensioning it in another.

Something to consider.
 
Sounds to me more like you're experiencing a parallax issue more than an ammo issue. Since you say it groups ok but minor shifts in point of impact at 50 yards. The scope(s) that you're using are set for parallax free at 100 yards. You're shooting at 50 yards so if you're not perfectly behind your scope exactly the same way each and every time you pull the trigger, you will experience exactly what you are talking about. Either get a scope with parallax set at 50 yards, or, a scope that has an AO or SF.

I am not an expert on scopes but I think most scopes designed for rimfire are parallax free at 50 yards. The Nikon P-22 that I have is specifically made for rimfire and is spot on with the 15-22.
 
First off, sounds like a loose barrel nut. Several companies make tools to tighten/loose said nuts. I made my own but the factory ones are not too expensive here, not sure about the UK.
I have used the Tacticool conversion nuts and put real, metal free float tubes on my 15-22’s. Makes the little plastic rifles feel like their big cousins. Once again, not sure if Tacticool is available in the UK.
 
Very interesting, never considered that. Right I think the only thing to do is test this is put one of my other scopes on that I can set to 50 yards and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion.

While you're at it, if your 15-22 has the plastic hand guard, pop the plastic ring off the end and cut the 'spokes' to remove the inner ring so there is nothing touching the barrel. This will eliminate any possibility of the hand guard influencing the barrel in any way. Let us know how it goes.

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Definitaly getting paralax error. Put the rifle very stable at 50 yards and moved my head and yes the crosshairs are moving a fair bit.
 
Definitaly getting paralax error. Put the rifle very stable at 50 yards and moved my head and yes the crosshairs are moving a fair bit.

Live and learn, Grasshopper....lol. Glad you got it figured out. :D
 
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Is your barrel nut tight?
Does your scope span from the upper to the hand guard?
The barrel is free floating from the barrel nut by the breech, so any pressure on the plastic hand guard can make it move. If the barrel nut is loose, you will not be able to correct anything until the nut is tight.
 
- Try out various ammo to discover what groups best for your assembly. I use CCI hollow subs in one of my 15-22s but the other does better with a 38 grain head e.g. Eley hollow subs.
- Precision/accuracy issues are likely to vary greatly with your choice of support/grip -- I've had very acceptable results with a trigger stick, but the tripod I use for my air rifles produces wildly inconsistent groupings, precision and accuracy. Zero moves again when leaning on a sandbag on the truck. Find a shooting stick or bipod that works for you, and practice how you hold your gun and breathe, etc. You're zeroing yourself as well as your gun.
- Parallax is important, you need your cheek and eye in the same spot on the stock every time, find a spot that works for you. Digital scope like my XQ50 eliminates that consideration.
- Ensure moderator is tight and barrel clean.
- Semi-auto is not ideal for a tight grouping vs bolt, pros and cons to each.
 
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I shot my 16” 15-22 yesterday sighting in a Uber cheap 4x scope. For a milspec trigger, golden bullet ammo and a terrible scope at a dark indoor range. I was happy! That’s a 1/8 size silhouette Target designed to simulate longer ranges
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@jamesy13 did you have any luck with your groupings? Fellow Brit, here.
 

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