M&P 15 Bolt Lubrication Question ?

[rojodiablo]

Ive noticed with my R/C Trucks that WD40 when exposed to water can actually accelerate rust. I stopped using it after i noticed that. For my firearms i use Rem Oil when they sit and SlideGlide when they play.....has anyone had good experience with gun butter?

Funny to say it, but not enough WD40 was used. It does a great job at it's namesake...Water Displacer, formula #40.
If the WD was not blasted in to clear away the water....... it will trap that water, and if the water can not evaporate, you are dead right; you are going to become a rust farmer quickly.

WD40- use a little. Or, a Lottle. Anything else is not the way to do it.
Gun butter is ok, I use it from time to time on pistols. For the AR, light oils are ideal.

 

[rojodiablo]

I run Kroil in my guns. I love the stuff. I use it to clean and lube. You will never have rust and don't have to worry about temps.

I buy various cans of lubes and the like for our shop.
Kroil is great stuff, but Holy Smokes, it is EXPENSIVE.

We don't run that stuff unless we need to break bolts loose. Not at $11 a can.

Yes; our case price tends to be about $11 a can. Brutal.

 

[CatSnipah]

Depends on what else I'm cleaning when I break down my AR.

I've used CLP, Hoppes, or a light coating of Slide Glide (if I'm also cleaning my Sig pistol).

It really matters not, as long as you use SOMETHING and understand that greases and certain oils may attract more dirt/carbon powder, and you react appropriately.

 

[raymo2u]

Ive never heard of kroil, something you could get at walmart?

CatSnipah, your right about that. Ive run out of wet oils before and only had graphite dry lube. Its really messy but itll make metal slide like a dream for a temporary fix, do not use prolonged on aluminum!
But the graphite worked, but it doesnt repel water and that and being messy and it can build up in crevices, should ONLYbe used for temporary fixes or where neccessary

 

[ASTMedic]

Ive noticed with my R/C Trucks that WD40 when exposed to water can actually accelerate rust. I stopped using it after i noticed that. For my firearms i use Rem Oil when they sit and SlideGlide when they play.....has anyone had good experience with gun butter?

A tip when doing automotive body work is using WD40 to prevent rusting on bare metal. If you sanded a body panel and it has to sit bare for a while wipe it down with WD40. Just be sure to remove it before painting.

I run gun butter on all my handguns. It's thin but not too thin. I also have their grease. It's more of a thick oil than a true grease. I really like it.

On my AR I clean the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. Once things are dry I spray lightly with ReOil and let it dry. Wipe the outside with Ezzox and good to go.

 

[raymo2u]

Good tip but i usually will use a spray primer as a last resort if i have to do autobody, that was my last job before being a computer tech but i couldnt stand the managment and the rates they paid.

Ive never thought of using a ultrasonic cleaner for parts, now thats a tip

 

[ASTMedic]

Good tip but i usually will use a spray primer as a last resort if i have to do autobody, that was my last job before being a computer tech but i couldnt stand the managment and the rates they paid.

Ive never thought of using a ultrasonic cleaner for parts, now thats a tip

I do that with all my guns. Strip them down and spray them with the solvent I use for a soak and then drop them in the ultrasonic. I love that the one I bought has a heater to get the water nice and hot. Makes drying really easy. Some canned air to spray water out of the tight spots and then spray down with the RemOil and assemble.

 

[raymo2u]

That hornady hot tub sonic cleaner might be my next purchase, sure did look useful

 

[JaPes]

That hornady hot tub sonic cleaner might be my next purchase, sure did look useful

An ultrasonic cleaning machine is very useful. I detail strip firearms and clean the small parts in the ultrasonic. All the old lubricant and grime comes right off. I also use it to clean cases for reloading.

If you have a Harbor Freight near you, you can get the same heated ultrasonic cleaner for less. Wait for a sale & combine coupons. I got mine for $30.

The only real difference is that the Chicago Electric branded cleaner's timer maxes out at 490 seconds. All I do is check on it, and reset the timer.

 

[raymo2u]

Theres not one close but i order from them all the time, almost every tool i own is from HF. What are the dimensions on the cage Jepas? big enough to clean a broke down KSG or just pistols?

 

[JaPes]

It has a 2.5L capacity. It's big enough for me to detail strip pistols and clean them in there.

 

[raymo2u]

Ill search for a coupon online and if not ill wait and get it, it would be nice to have a helping hand to clean after i bring the armoury to the range

 

[JDP530]

lubes

I bought an M4 five weeks ago and have run almost 1000 rds through it already! Just too much fun not to take to range when I go out there. I started out using some Mobil 1 5w-20 on the bolt and some Durablend on the carrier and lug. I wanted to use some grease for break-in runs. Since then I bought some Slip 2000 oil and some of their EWG grease. I think the Durablend is thinner than the EWG so I am using that again on the carrier rails because grease just lasts longer than oil. If I was using the gun in the field then I would probably stick to using oil that wont attract as much dirt. The Slip 2000 oil is much thicker than the Mobil 1 so it seems to stay in place longer. I also use the oil on all of the other lube points as needed. I was using grease on the locking lugs originally but it takes more time to clean so I am now using oil. The only wear I am seeing on the bolt carrier is along the bottom side rails and at the top so there's really no reason to cover the whole carrier with grease or oil.

 

[raymo2u]

Most do for corrosion reasons

 

[pa5906tsw]

Ballistol here on my rifle and pistols.

 

[italyguy01]

Hello Everyone.

I use Breakfree CLP and TW-25B. Both are extremely good.

 

[Starwalker]

Another Mobil 1 guy here.

I run all of my firearms on Mobil 1 including WWII arms to the latest greatest plastic fantastic M&P Shield, and it has worked very well for me in every one.

 

[shawn mccarver]

The single best source of info on how and where to lube the M4/AR platform is the Colt owner's manual.

Lube is only required in certain places and it can be lubed generously in those places. However, there are certain places that should NEVER receive lube - EVER.

The technical data package (TDP) on the M4 developed by Colt's over the decades of its military experience has made the M4 an exceedingly reliable rifle. Although all sorts of loud mouths say that the direct gas impingement system is dirty (it is), and that it will cause your rifle to malfunction (it might, maybe, after 10 THOUSAND rounds or so - maybe), for our purposes here, the gas piston system has no real advantage and at least one serious disadvantage - the rocking effect to the bolt which Colt has virtually eliminated in its piston rifle with its ALP (articulating link piston).

I have one friend who never cleans his shooters until they malfunction, and I was along with him and happened to be shooting his M4 when it finally choked - at just over 15,000 rounds. All he did was lube very generously in all the right places during that 15,000 round run.

Hickok 45 has an excellent video demonstrating his cleaning method for an AR or M4 type rifle. It follows the Colt method pretty closely as to locations for lube, etc.

Of course, Larry Vickers ran that episode where he simply dunked the entire rifle in a vat of Mobil One or some other type of motor oil. The rifle worked fine, but one warning about that - oil clearly went places it shouldn't in that demonstration, and they were trying to show that too much lube would not cause the rifle to gunk up. On the other hand, the gas system and tube should be as dry as a bone under ideal conditions.