M&P 340 - How Much Should I Want It

[MarkAlt]

This gun IS my "front pocket of the cargo shorts" summer-carry pistol.

So, should you get one?
I think so. Especially in the summer time, I sure like mine...

This is important for me, living in Florida and rarely wearing long pants. Even Winter feels like Summer.

If weight isn't noticeable, it's still a unique gun. As I remember there are only 2 S&W M&P (cataloged) revolvers. I'd like to own one.

Thanks for all the comments!

 

[animl]

How about, split the difference? Less than $1000 and a little more than the .38. My wife bought a scandium 360 for $500. She loves it and shoots it straight. BUT I bought a model 60, SS, 2 1/8", .357 for $600 out the door. I added new grips and it's my carry. There is really no significant weight difference and the .357's don't recoil more than the .38+p. Just my opinion. Straight shoot'n.

 

[Massad Ayoob]

I've never regretted buying my M&P 340. It's my preferred backup gun most of the time. No bullet jump issues at all, with anything, in years of fairly frequent shooting.

The big advantage is the sights, the best S&W ever put on a J-frame in my opinion, and I've been working with J-frames for decades. The Big Dot front sight is very fast, and it's the only factory S&W I've seen which mates that sight with a BIG rear sight that allows a conventional sight picture, taken very quickly. The result is head shot accuracy at 25 yards, AND satisfying speed up close. Has stood up very well to constant +P and occasional Magnum shooting. Came out of the box shooting point of aim/point of impact, too.

 

[BelAir56]

Scandium

Given a choice, I'd prefer the concealed hammer. I already own a 642 and 2 637 PC's with bobbed hammers.

Just looking to expand the snubby collection with a Scandium Alloy j-frame. I do carry pocket, so admit to being curious about the difference and whether it's noticeable.

better do some looking into what and how much of it is actually in the makeup of the piece.

 

[MarkAlt]

better do some looking into what and how much of it is actually in the makeup of the piece.

Yep. Well aware of how much scandium content would be fiscally practical. Note that I always try to correctly call it (as Smith does) a Scandium Alloy frame revolver. I suspect part patent and mostly marketing.

The driving factor for me is that it's a rather unique production j-frame ...and I don't (yet) own a Scandium Alloy frame Smith.

 

[Swengen]

I have the M&P340 and the 340PD. One or the other is my EDC. Either one fits my needs when stoked with Speer .38+P in 135-gr for short-barrels.

I have both of these as well. Sent both to Gemini Custom for some trigger work, etc. I practice with .38 and a few of what I carry which is short barrel .357 loads. It's no problem for me to shoot full strength .357 but it's more common for guys to shrink away from those loads. For carry, I load the first round with .38 +P. .357 after that. Can always hit a 6" group at 10 yards. Good enough.

 

[Mikemble]

I have carried the 360PD revolver since they came out with the super light weight scandium model. I love it. Have been carrying the SW 5 shot wheel guns since service (Vietnam 67-68) as a backup piece. I am very slim with extremely small wrists but I shoot it with 158 grain 38 loads for target and always shoot about 10 rounds of 158 grain 357 loads at the range before I leave. It's not comfortable but I manage it. The beauty of this super-lightweight is being able to carry it in numerous holsters and even in a pocket when I'm in shorts and T shirt. You don't even feel the weight. If you plan to carry it as defense weapon, I recommend the laser grip to get a sight picture if you ever were off balance and a laser on someone's chest is a great deterrent for someone who would be carrying a club/knife or anything other than another firearm. It definitely wouldn't be a pistol you want to target shoot for a long period of time.

 

[MrTrolleyguy]

Too bad your 360J was cancelled. There are plenty more.

Not rubbing it in...mine is only .38 cal., not the .357.

Here is a 360J that came from our classified pages about a month ago. It has had a few upgrades. Apex trigger job, Xcess Big Dot front sight and the hammer spur trimmed to the minimum usable size.

 

[Mediumbore]

I don't think you will regret the M&P340. They are sitting right now because the 442/642/638 tribe are such a comparative steal. To me though, the M&P340 solves several issues I've had with uber-light J-frames.

There is no warning on which loads to use (weight, construction, crimp, etc.) and I have run a wide variety of loads through it with no issues (setback, bullet pulling, etc). It is omnivorous.

Sights are easy to see and really extend the useful range of this as a combat gun. We all know most use of this gun (a rarity in and of itself) would be at close range, but the sights lend the confidence to reach out if need be and make those 15 or 25 yd hits. Murphy's corollary states that if you never take your snub beyond 7 ft, the one gunfight of your life will be at 15 yards or out.

The .357 Mag chambering allows you to scrounge for ammo and maximize your chances of finding SOMETHING that will fit and work. The "zombie apocalypse" mentality always seemed like a useful way of getting otherwise uninterested folk to at least think about the eventuality of societal breakdown whether that be short or long term. This would make a great choice if one were even considering the need to "take what's available" in ammo resupply.

 

[HarrishMasher]

This new in the box one just ended on Gunbroker for $626. This is a good gauge for what market value is for an M&P340 these days...

Smith & Wesson M&P 340 .357 Mag 1.875in Brl NIB : Revolvers at GunBroker.com

In my opinion that is about what they should go for.

 

[MarkAlt]

Thanks for that link. It's an excellent price and was on my GB watch list! Got tied up with work and missed it.

Besides GB, 2 other options:

LGS has the 163072 for $769. I think it's a fair 'brick and mortar' price.

Large gun show tomorrow, but they are such a zoo.

Dunno. Mr. indecisive.

 

[JJEH]

Model 340PD, SKU 163062, $850 + $25 shipping

 

[BgDnTx]

I was lusting for a .357 J-frame until I looked at the ballistics of a .357.vs a .38+P coming out of a two inch barrel (check them out for yourself)
Bottom line - .38+P performs very close to the .357 and without the flash and noise. (a .357 needs 4" of barrel to reach its potential) And I can reload a .38+P to exceed a standard factory .357
So - Model 638 w/ Speer GD short-barrel and Crimson coming out of the front pocket and shooting from the hip in that dark parking lot.

 

[MarkAlt]

This one came home with me on Saturday!!

Already had the Speer short barrel ready for it.

May need to make a new thread, but I do want to ask those that have a 340...

The trigger is really heavy. No idea how many pounds, but it's stiff. Also, the cylinder locks extremely tight. I really had to pounce on it to open. A State Trooper at the show tried to zip tie it and couldn't open the cylinder! Finally, we did. The thumb release is very gritty.

I do have several 637s and a 642 that are considerably smoother. Just wondering if this is the way it should feel. Maybe just tighter tolerances or needs to be broken in?

Bought some snap caps, hoping to smooth it out. At least my finger is getting a workout.

 

[629shooter]

The trigger is really heavy. No idea how many pounds, but it's stiff. Also, the cylinder locks extremely tight. I really had to pounce on it to open. A State Trooper at the show tried to zip tie it and couldn't open the cylinder! Finally, we did. The thumb release is very gritty.

I do have several 637s and a 642 that are considerably smoother. Just wondering if this is the way it should feel. Maybe just tighter tolerances or needs to be broken in?

Bought some snap caps, hoping to smooth it out. At least my finger is getting a workout.

It will get a little "smoother" with use.

 

[71velle]

I have a 642 and wish I spent the extra for the M&P.

 

[PJS50]

This one came home with me on Saturday!!
Already had the Speer short barrel ready for it.
May need to make a new thread, but I do want to ask those that have a 340...
The trigger is really heavy. No idea how many pounds, but it's stiff. Also, the cylinder locks extremely tight. I really had to pounce on it to open. A State Trooper at the show tried to zip tie it and couldn't open the cylinder! Finally, we did. The thumb release is very gritty.
I do have several 637s and a 642 that are considerably smoother. Just wondering if this is the way it should feel. Maybe just tighter tolerances or needs to be broken in?
Bought some snap caps, hoping to smooth it out. At least my finger is getting a workout.

YEA! Good for you!
On the trigger, if yours is 1/2 as bad as mine was, go and spend the $25 and get yourself the APEX Tactical trigger kit for the J-frames:
https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid49.html

Mine was not only heavy (registered higher than my RCBS trigger scale could even read!) but it was as gritty and uneven as the armor-plates on the back of Godzilla!

The APEX kit didn't reduce the pull-weight down too low (I think mine runs between 8 & 9 pounds now) BUT it is as smooth as a baby's behind and very even throughout the length of pull. My group sizes at 30-40 feet were reduced by HALF, just with this trigger job.
It's simple to install and APEX has a very good video of how to do the whole installation on YouTube. It's a one beer job; no special tools required really... I'd also recommend to do the fine sanding of the rebound slide surface as they recommend in the directions (like 600 grit paper; no serious metal removal)...

On your cylinder tightness, I recall mine being kinda tight at the beginning too. They loosen up. Shoot some CorBon +P .357 loads out of it, THAT will loosen it up! (JUST KIDDING! I made the mistake of doing this once; Just Once! Literally split the web of my hand with the stock grips on the gun! OUCH!!!!).

As per the owners manual I would recommend testing any hot carry loads for bullet pull as I did experience this with a couple of .357 loads that I tested in my 340 (one that comes to mind was the Rem. Golden Sabres; they don't have a crimp groove on the projo and they moved-out quite a bit!).
I found the Speers and the Federals (both with a decent projo-groove and fairly heavy crimp) to be the ones that didn't move at all during my testing for this. But since "your mileage may vary" I'd suggest you take a dial caliper to the range with you and do some testing on your own. Remember, IF one of your projos moves too far out of the case, the cylinder is locked and your gun is now only good for use as a paper weight or to throw at the attacker... I've never run into any .38+P rounds that backed out, but I always use +P rounds with a decent crimp/crimp groove on the projos, just in case...

Get yourself a pocket holster like the DeSantis Nemesis and have FUN! These things are amazingly light and carry like a dream, especially like in the front pocket of your cargo shorts!

Congrats!
Pat

 

[PJS50]

I was lusting for a .357 J-frame until I looked at the ballistics of a .357.vs a .38+P coming out of a two inch barrel (check them out for yourself)
Bottom line - .38+P performs very close to the .357 and without the flash and noise. (a .357 needs 4" of barrel to reach its potential) And I can reload a .38+P to exceed a standard factory .357
So - Model 638 w/ Speer GD short-barrel and Crimson coming out of the front pocket and shooting from the hip in that dark parking lot.

I'm not doubting your experiences but in my 340, I was surprised to find that the .38+P's actually displayed more muzzle flash than the .357 loads that I tried. I certainly expected the opposite myself (I figured if I didn't hit 'em with the .357 load, maybe I'd set them on fire if they were close enough!) ;-)

Also, while I've never chronographed either .38+P vs. .357Mag out of mine, I can tell you that the .38+P rounds had no effect on my steel Detroit bullet trap, and when I fired full-house .357 loads into the same trap, I slightly dented the back-plate of the trap. So, there has to be a semi-significant difference between them based on this... I know it doesn't logically seem like it there should be that much difference, but I have some dents in some pretty heavy steel which have to mean something...???

 

[HarrishMasher]

The trigger is really heavy. No idea how many pounds, but it's stiff. Also, the cylinder locks extremely tight. I really had to pounce on it to open. A State Trooper at the show tried to zip tie it and couldn't open the cylinder! Finally, we did. The thumb release is very gritty.

Glad you finally worked it out. Quite a saga

Cylinder should not be that hard to open. I have had this problem on one or two J Frames in the past. You could send it back to SW for free warranty work and they pay shipping both ways as well. But that is a pain and at least a month wait. Any local gunsmith can fix that up for you for $25 to $50. That's what I did.

For the trigger, that's just how J Frame triggers all are. The best and cheapest fix is an Apex kit. I installed them in all 6 of my j Frames. It is $25 and can be installed in 15 mins and does not require any special skill. It is a bargain and worth a $100. Apex has a video on their site that walks you through it. It's simple, don't be intimidated...you will learn a lot about your gun by doing it as well. It makes a huge difference and shaves 4 lbs right off the top and makes the pull very smooth and clean. It is how the gun should come from the factory. It is a must do and everyone should do it. Just do it.

Might want to think about slapping some Ahrends on it I just put these on mine and the gun feels like it is part of my hand.