M&P 40 Police turn in

There's no way you can go wrong for 187 bucks. Especially with 3 factory mags. It's not the like the 1.0 was a bad gun and it's not that big a deal to tune up the trigger.
 
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I put the Apex Tactical flat faced forward set trigger in mine
Flat-Faced Forward Set Sear & Trigger Kit for M&P
It was a vast improvement. With mine I had to source a 1/8" sear block from MidwayUSA because it had the older sear block with the small sear spring. Also got one that did away with the magazine disconnect.

Timney would be a viable option as well. Looks to be easier installation than the Apex and uses all the stock parts. Wish I knew about the Timney.
 
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I was an early adopter of The M&P .40 and it's my strong understanding that there are variations, even among the Gen 1 pistols, that prevent interchangeability of triggers and upgrades.

I know my pistol will not accept popular trigger upgrades that will work in later Gen 1 pistols.

That being said, my M&P .40 has been 100% reliable with all sorts of FMJ range ammunition as well as hollow points of various bullet weights, although I prefer 180 grain myself.

The trigger is mediocre but serviceable and the pistol provides good combat accuracy.

One more thing; regardless of how hard I've tried to initiate a limp wrist failure, it's been absolutely impossible to limp wrist the gun.

Check the striker because the first iterations were considered to be problematic due to breakage, and I'd just replace it in a used gun that's going to be used for self defense.

This is what an early model M&P .40 looks like, you can compare the frame details with yours.

Later models have a sort of square cutout blank in the frame for the thumb safety even if they don't have one.

Also note that all of the early production pistols look like they have a key lock, including the direction arrow on the frame, even those like mine that do not.

Again, if yours is an early production example, you'll be limited as to trigger upgrades.

From your picture, your pistol is a later production model than mine, but I'd check for compatibility before buying and trigger upgrades.

jgprE7i.jpg
 
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I just recently sold (3) of my (4) M&P 1.0 LE Trade in 40's. I was asking $400 each. A gentleman with deep pockets bought all (3) for $375 each ($1125 total). They all had APEX polymer triggers, 6 lb. trigger springs, and I threw in a 40 to 9 Storm Lake barrel.
I kept my favorite LE Trade in 1.0 M&P .40. It has an APEX polymer trigger, polished sear parts and trigger bar, and a 6 lb. trigger spring.
 

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Another external difference is the earlier 1.0's, like Oldsalt's above, have "STAINLESS" roll marked on the slide. The "newer" ones don't.

Internally, there are a few more. Don't know about the .40s but the 9mms had a barrel twist change going to the current 10:1 twist. The sear housings, besides losing the internal lock and gaining a manual safety, increased the hole size for the sear spring and plunger to reduce sear flutter.

I believe you can change the older "internal lock" sear housings for later ones. I've have the later "manual safety" sear housings in my 1.0s and was able to drop in 2.0 sear housings and trigger bars.
 
Another external difference is the earlier 1.0's, like Oldsalt's above, have "STAINLESS" roll marked on the slide. The "newer" ones don't.

Internally, there are a few more. Don't know about the .40s but the 9mms had a barrel twist change going to the current 10:1 twist. The sear housings, besides losing the internal lock and gaining a manual safety, increased the hole size for the sear spring and plunger to reduce sear flutter.

I believe you can change the older "internal lock" sear housings for later ones. I've have the later "manual safety" sear housings in my 1.0s and was able to drop in 2.0 sear housings and trigger bars.
I have a 2.0 SHB and 2.0 trigger bar that I can drop into my 1.0.
On the bottom of the 2.0 SHB you have to remove the "BUMP" for it to fit in the frame. I had that setup in one of my other 1.0's before I sold it.
I'm going to install it in my current 1.0.
 

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