M&P 45 - Is this normal?

RocNYRunner

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Proud owner of a new M&P 45 (new to the forum too). Cleaned it and took it to the range today, and had a great first experience with the gun. Ran flawlessly.

However, when I cleaned it afterward, I noticed that I can push the striker forward, and it will stick there, with the firing pin protruding into the chamber. I can do this without depressing the striker block. Is this normal? If not, any suggestions?
 
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The striker block must be depressed for the striker to move past the breech face. If you can get the striker to move forward, without depressing the blocker, the safety is malfunctioning. This is also why the striker is likely sticking forward. Call S&W, explain what is happening, and they will tell you how to ship the gun back in for warranty repair.

It should not be happening to a new gun, but these are mechanical machines, and every now and then something goes wrong. Could be a defective part or improper assembly of the gun, at the factory.

Bob
 
Thanks all. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

Having spent my whole career in mfg, I know it can happen. S&W's customer service reputation sounds pretty good,so I'm hoping for the best.

At least I got a chance to shoot it, and got to own it before NYs pointless new law goes into effect.
 
Proud owner of a new M&P 45 (new to the forum too). Cleaned it and took it to the range today, and had a great first experience with the gun. Ran flawlessly.

However, when I cleaned it afterward, I noticed that I can push the striker forward, and it will stick there, with the firing pin protruding into the chamber. I can do this without depressing the striker block. Is this normal? If not, any suggestions?

This is an unsafe condition. Please call S&W and tell them the problem and tell them you would like to send it in for inspection/repair. They will send you a shipping label or email you one (your choice). Good luck. :)
 
i have found it to be normal. the striker block only works when the striker is cocked. it is designed to catch the striker and prevent it from moving forward if the gun is dropped and the striker slips off the sear.

think of it, how would you get a striker down on a live round without it going bang?The only way to do so would be to drop a live rond into the barrel while the gun is disassembled. A foolish thing to do.
 
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i have found it to be normal. the striker block only works when the striker is cocked. it is designed to catch the striker and prevent it from moving forward if the gun is dropped and the striker slips off the sear.

think of it, how would you get a striker down on a live round without it going bang?The only way to do so would be to drop a live round into the barrel while the gun is disassembled. A foolish thing to do.

Not correct. The striker block prevents the striker from moving forward the last 3/16 inch of forward movement, including the 1/8 inch of penetration past the breech face, so it can impact the primer. Whether the slide is on or off, whether the striker is cocked or not, the "blocker" stops the striker tip from moving forward the last 3/16 inch of forward travel, unless it is depressed. That is why it is called a blocker or block, because it blocks the movement of the striker. With the slide off, the blocker must be manually depressed to allow the striker to penetrate past the breech face. With the slide installed, the trigger bar blocker tab depresses the blocker, when the trigger is pulled back to near the break point.

The OP description is of a malfunctioning blocker, that needs to be repaired to allow for safe use of the gun.

Bob
 
Compared this to a friends M&P 40, and it's definitely not right, just like Rob and others said. Also found an armorer's manual online, and it lists a function check that should be done "annually". Fails the check.

I'm sure they'll make it right. I'll let you all know how I make out.

Thanks again to those who responded.
 

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i must respectfully disagree. I took out all 4 of my Mp's and tested them. With the strikers already at the farthest travel with striker protruding, all of them needed to be manually pulled to the rear to engage the striker block. after they have engaged it, they can no longer be moved forward with out depressing the block.

I alos pulled out the 5 Glockes that i have, and they do the same thing.

Now if you can pull back the striker, and the striker block engages and you can then push the striker forward again without pressing the striker block in, I then agree that something is wrong.
 
Technically Everyone was right...

Just got off the phone with customer service. They walked me through the process of troubleshooting. Lo and behold, if I pull the striker back, I hear it click when the striker block engages. Problem (or lack thereof) solved.

I am curious why my friends 40 stays engaged though, I figured they would be the same. Either way, I've got a quality gun that I'm going to get a lot of enjoyment out of.
 
Glad the customer service folks took the time to talk you through checking the striker/striker safety plunger function in your M&P. ;)

Checking the striker and striker safety plunger requires resetting the striker (so it's behind the safety plunger).

It's done by removing the slide from the frame. To reset the striker it's pulled fully to the rear position, and then slowly released. (Not released to snap forward, to help prevent unnecessary battering of the parts.)

Once that's done, the striker is pushed forward. It should be stopped by the striker safety plunger. If it can be pushed forward and protrude from the breech face, the striker assembly needs to be replaced. (And then the new one rechecked and inspected for proper function.)

If it passes that check, then it's repeated with the striker safety plunger pushed down and held. With the safety plunger being pushed and held down, the striker is again pushed forward. The striker should be able to be moved forward so it protrudes from the breech face.

Armorers are told that the striker safety inspection (and others) should be performed after performing any maintenance procedures.
 
OK, I'm glad we got this ironed out. What WashMP9 originally said had me worried, but then he explained his situation better and it's all good.

For the record, the striker cannot be "cocked" with the slide removed. For it to be cocked, the striker has to engage the sear which cannot be done if the slide is off.
 
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