M&P 9 DCEAK question

malachi_s

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I traded my M&P 40 with factory sights for a M&P 9 with what he described as factory night sights. The nights sights are Trijicon. Is this poosible? Did S&W sell some M&P's with factory Trijicon night sights? This is not my real issue though. I am wanting to install the Apex DCEAK USB to smooth things out a touch but I have reservations about drifting the Trijicons sights for fear of damaging them. I understand that may seem a little paranoid considering they would have had to be drifted in or perhaps S&W used a sight installation tool eliminating the punch from drifting. Anyone with information, advise or opinions on my situation please reply. I would be very much interested in your comments. Thanks
 
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He means he doesn't want to accidentally break a vial of tritium in the rear sight while removing it to put in the rounded striker block in the DCAEK. And I have seen a lot of S&W factory night sights marked as Trijicon.
I have carefully drifted out a couple of sets of night sights and reinstalled them without damage. So, it can be done, but it may depend on tolerance-the gun's manufacturing tolerance and your tolerance for risk...
I haven't broken one but bought a sight pusher to avoid future worries.
No guarantees, don't want the blame if you accidentally release enough tritium and grow a horn from the middle of your head or body parts fall off or glow in the dark. ;)
 
OK, understood.

Sight press is the preferred method, but the sight should tap out fairly easily if the slide is in a vice. If they don't move it's time to get a sight press or find someone who has one.

-- Chuck
 
I've noticed that some of the Apex kits come with a drift tool for the rear sight.
 
PATRONE:

I think you're referring to the flat plastic widget used to keep from launching the plunger spring and it's little cover.... But if there's another tool, none of the three DCAEK kits I bought included one.

IAC, all three of my M&P's moved very easily once I loosened the set screw. I don't think you can whack the thing hard enough (presuming a nylon pusher) to do any damage intentionally. All three of mine were made on different dates, etc.

If you do have a "real" pusher, that's always better, but I didn't find any of my rear sights all that tight.

Do use a plastic/nylon pusher, though, or, at worst, a brass one. Some Kroil may help if it's not in the mood to move.

Regards,
 

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