M&p 9C striker spring needs replacing.

[changemyoil66]

Had same issue another guy posted about end of july.

4 out of 50 rds wouldnt fire. Round is in chamber, trigger is set. Not even a light strike on primer. Gun just didnt go bang. Just a click.
Tap rack and next round fires.

Did the pencil test.

Put a wooden pencil down the barrel, eraser side first. Point gun to sky and press trigger. Pencil didnt even move.

Tried the same on my vp9. Pencil flew out of the barrel about 1 foot high.

You can so use the inside of a pen also. The plastic part with the ink in it and metal tip.

Worn striker spring, ink didnt even move. Tried in vp9 and ink flew 3 feet high.

I have about 1500rds through the 9c.

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[swsig]

Call S&W customer service and explain what is happening. Your round count is way too low to wear out a normal striker. The one in my 40c lasted over 9,000 rounds, so yours sounds defective. They'll probably want you to send your 9c back so they can check the entire trigger system, but if you can convince them you know what you're doing, they may just send you a new striker. That's what they did for me. Even though it's not part of the field-stripping process, changing the striker is not too difficult. There are a number of Youtube videos on how to do it. Good Luck!

 

[mscampbell2734]

I would be more concerned about unusual wear/interference between the striker and the block them about a worn spring.

As swsig said your round count is way too low to wear out a spring. It IS about right for a set of parts at the extreme of tolerance to develop burrs and peening and start interfering with the movement of the striker.

If you know how detail strip the slide and really really look at the striker and block.

Several years ago Glock put out a "Maintenance advisory" (Glock refused to call it a recall) for Glock 21. They said for a certain serial number range they recommended replacing the striker, block and trigger arm. Basically the combination of extreme tolerances caused some guns to over time develop burrs and deliver light strikes.

 

[Saudade]

Field strip your gun.

Lay the slide upside down.

Using a small tool, depress your striker block and hold.

Using your finger, push the striker forward (towards the breech). Do you see the pin protrude?

 

[Fastbolt]

Depending on your cleaning and lubrication practices, it's not impossible that you may have unintentionally allowed an excess amount of liquid to fouling the striker channel. A striker/firing pin channel heavily fouled with liquid can cause light-strikes in striker-fired pistols, even more easily than in many hammer-fired pistols, because the striker/firing pin channel is so widely open toward the rear. That large opening for the striker "foot" can allow excessive solvents, CLP's and oils to migrate into the channel.

If your 9c is old enough (pre-2010-ish) to have the original black machined striker, instead of the MIM striker (1-piece U-shaped spring keeper), you might benefit from a new striker assembly. The company might send you one, or they might want to see the gun to make sure nothing else is happening that interferes with the striker force.

Bottom line, if you bought the 9c new, you can arrange for them to have the 9c returned to them on their dime under warranty to examine it and correct the problem.

 

[changemyoil66]

Asked SW for a striker spring and instead they send the entire assemply. Awesome.

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[MyDads38]

Let us know if that takes care of the issue...

 

[Fastbolt]

Nice.

I was previously told that it was better for them to send out the complete striker assembly, even to armorers, and especially if it involved an earlier model M&P when the machined strikers were being used. They said there was an increase in the weight/mass when they adopted the improved MIM striker, and there had been a corresponding change in the spring.

 

[BigDog48]

or, when they wear out, you can buy them at places like Brownell's for less than $20....SMITH & WESSON STRIKER ASSEMBLY | Brownells I keep a spare around.

 

[Fastbolt]

You've gotta work at wearing them out.

The recommended service/replacement interval for striker assemblies in the regular M&P's is every 10,000 rounds for the 9/.40 models, and every 20,000 rounds for the .45's, and/or after 30,000 dry-fire cycles for all calibers. (The recommendation for Shield pistols is every 10,000 rounds live-fire, and/or every 30,000 cycles of dry-fire, for all calibers.)

 

[BigDog48]

You've gotta work at wearing them out.

The recommended service/replacement interval for striker assemblies in the regular M&P's is every 10,000 rounds for the 9/.40 models, and every 20,000 rounds for the .45's, and/or after 30,000 dry-fire cycles for all calibers.

Depends on how the owner cares for their firearms. I take good care, but I keep spare springs and other cheap parts around for all of the firearms on which I depend.

 

[Fastbolt]

Depends on how the owner cares for their firearms. I take good care, but I keep spare springs and other cheap parts around for all of the firearms on which I depend.

Of course it does. However ...

LE guns typically see much more neglect and abusive conditions than the average private owner who tends to pamper his/her gun, though. More exposure to the elements in an exposed holster, for one thing. Also, most cops seem totally comfortable to practice barely minimal attention to cleaning & lubrication.

Also, armorer recommendations are often described in classes as being on the "conservative" side of things, meaning service and repair interval recommendations that minimize the potential of actually having a duty weapon exhibit problems. In other words, better to inspect and service/replace parts that normally experience wear before they actually reach a point where they may start to exhibit problems. Better too soon than too late, if we're talking about a gun being used in the role of a dedicated defensive weapon.

Just like checking air pressure in tires might help extend tread life, so might some normal attention to prudent basic cleaning and lubrication practices help promote the normal service life of guns. I've seen my fair share of cop guns exhibit the extremes of user/owner "cleaning & maintenance" practices, meaning from the "clean it every few years whether it needs it or not" , to the "better slather it with solvent & oil like I'm washing a car" philosophy.

I've seen far more guns exhibit functioning problems due to improper, insufficient or "excessive zeal" when it comes to user/owner maintenance than I've ever seen result from actual "gun problems". That includes the users/owners who mistakenly believed and sincerely thought their cleaning & lube practices were the best way to maintain their weapons, too.

On the other hand, while replacing springs and some assemblies too quickly might be comforting, it can also be unnecessary. BTDT.

Aside from the offhand chance of risking coming across one of those seldom springs (or other parts) which might prematurely fail due to some unseen materials or manufacturing problem, most of the good quality modern handguns have earned the reputation of being pretty durable and reliable.

 

[changemyoil66]

So still have the same problem. Even with new stiker assembly. Gonna try to open the trigger loop more next.

Apex flat triggers seem to have this problem.

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[Fastbolt]

If you're still getting an occasional "click", it might be that your trigger bar's vertical cam engagement with the striker block, and/or your striker block's dimensions (burr inside?), are interfering with the striker's freedom of movement.

Factory striker block?

Has the rear sight been replaced/reinstalled? If the striker block spring has been at all kinked or damaged (and not properly connected to the striker block spring plate), and it's bent over at the top, it can prevent upward movement of the striker block. The newer striker block spring and spring plate come "snapped" together to prevent this sort of issue when installing the rear sight.

Might be a problem with the trigger/trigger bar and striker block, especially if one or both aren't factory parts.

When you installed the new striker assembly, did you shine a light in the channel to see if the nylon sleeve in the channel looks clean and undamaged at the front? No frayed spots at the front that might be hindering striker movement at times?

Is the striker hole in the breech face "cleanly round" inside, shaped for the striker's pin to move through without hanging up?

 

[BigDog48]

Of course it does. However ...

Thanks for the expert tutorial, which has no info that helps me or the OP.

 

[robrossk]

I had the light strike issue with my 9c (purchased from individual). I had it (striker/channel) cleaned by an armorer and it now runs perfectly. Hope you are able to get yours running.

 

[changemyoil66]

So opened the trigger loop from 5000ths to 24000ths and still same problem. At 24, trigger was also dead (no click/reset). Then opened loop more and total dead trigger.

Called apex and they said to close the loop more when it was at 5000. They said i should have closed it instead of opening it. Idk if i can close it less than 5000th. As in loop closed and touching.

Will call apex tomorrow. Entire apex kit is installed. Trigger, springs, sear, block, etc...(part 100-155)

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[Fastbolt]

FWIW, S&W describes the "candy cane" (cam loop) as having different degrees of angle, depending on the production vintage and the sear being used. No "gap" measurements of the opening of the cam loop's tail have been given to armorers in any of the classes I've attended.

Something to keep in mind is that the trigger bar's vertical extension which cams the striker safety block upward depends on the trigger bar's rearward travel distance to "time" this task.

If the candy cane (loop) doesn't toggle the sear to release the striker, and also lift the striker block, in the correct timing to both functions, then the striker block may impede the striker's movement to find the primer. The trigger bar does 2 jobs in this respect.

Changing the point when the striker is released mustn't interfere with the proper timing of the striker block being lifted out of the way for an intentional shot.

 

[changemyoil66]

Got an email from apex and steps to take pics they need to examine gun. Will do later and keep everyone posted.

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[Steve912]

Sounds like your heart is set on keeping non-OEM
parts in there...

On the chance that it's not the aftermarket stuff,
no one's mentioned cleaning out the striker channel
AND the bore of the striker safety.

Both areas accumulate brass/primer shavings, carbon,
and miscellaneous gunk. Accumulation of said gunk will
cushion and/or retard forward movement of striker, and
result in light strikes.

If both areas are clear, go back to the beginning...