M&P Target

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blk_vctr

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Hello-
I just found this gun on the local weekend flea market- it seemed to be calling my name, as it has an adjustable rear sight and a Marbles front sight. I will try to post pictures...
 
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Yes, that was me, my bad... I realized on doing that I should not have added my story onto someone else's... I need to go back and re read picture posting instructions... blk_vctr
 
Victor,

The stuck cyl release latch (bolt) is not that uncommon. If you can remove the cap screw that retains the thumb piece, or even if you can't, soak the opening under the thumb piece with penetrant like Break Free or any of a dozen others on the market. Also soak penetrant into the cyl shaft (arbor) at the front of the cyl and the front locking bolt under the barrel. The "sticking" could be in any one of those three places or all three.

Put the thumb piece back on and work it forward with thumb pressure.
 
M&P

I took a few minutes to look at my stuck cylinder latch this morning, which was puzzling since it was working fine a couple of days before. I put a small piece of Delrin plastic against the thumb piece and gave it a couple of very light taps. It broke free and seems to work OK now. I had soaked the gun in solvent, dried it, and lubricated it the day I got it since it was very dry and sticky. I can see that there is some peening where the release pin comes through the frame hole in the recoil shield. blk_vctr
 
pics at last

OK here are some pics of my "new" (only) M&P Target.. s/n 3024xx, no "Made In Usa" stamped on side of frame, .38 spl., 6" barrel. Finish is thinning to missing in places, bore is bright and slick, sometimes glitchy on cylinder release but nice and smooth otherwise... I'm real happy to have found her.... blk_vctr
 

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Yours would likely have shipped in mid-1919, shortly before cylinder heat treating started. The MADE IN USA stamping didn't start until about 3 years later. Grips appear correct. Are they numbered to the frame?
 
blk_vctr said:
I took a few minutes to look at my stuck cylinder latch this morning, which was puzzling since it was working fine a couple of days before. I put a small piece of Delrin plastic against the thumb piece and gave it a couple of very light taps. It broke free and seems to work OK now. I had soaked the gun in solvent, dried it, and lubricated it the day I got it since it was very dry and sticky. I can see that there is some peening where the release pin comes through the frame hole in the recoil shield. blk_vctr
Click to expand...

I had a 44 Triple lock with this same issue. I'd apply penetrant oil and get it moving slick as a whistle. Put it back in the safe for a couple of months and then take it out to shoot and it would be sticky again.

So I'd douse it again until it moved freely. This happened about three times. Finally one day I tried it after sitting in the safe for weeks and it no longer stuck and never has been sticky since.

Don't be surprised if it sets for awhile and is stuck the next time you pick it up. Just keep at it.
 
I would remove the grips and put the gun in a gallon bag and coat it heavily with Kroil and let it soak for 24 hours. I'd bet it won't stick after that.
 
The barrel is stamped with the date for the hammer block safety (Dec29'14), but I would bet that it doesn't have that safety. For some reason they weren't put into the target guns until the mid twenties. They obviously used barrels from standard .38 M&P revolvers which would have had the hammer block, and would have been stamped when produced.
 
Grips

I removed the grips from my gun, and I saw no pencil markings, but I didn't use a magnifier either.. So there could be faint remnants of pencil markings that I missed... blk_vctr
 
I have seen a fair number of S&W grips which SHOULD have had a penciled SN, but if so, I could not see a trace of one, no matter how I tried.
 
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