M&P's WITH NEW TRIGGER PULL

[09flhtcu]

I went to the Smith & Wesson site and under Gn Smithing the offer the trigger installed and reworked for $150.00 I think I might go that way

 

[natedg200202]

Thanks for the explanations everyone.

For $150 I would think you would have to consider purchasing Apex parts. Wouldn't that be equivalent or better?

 

[Hillbilly77]

I went to the Smith & Wesson site and under Gn Smithing the offer the trigger installed and reworked for $150.00 I think I might go that way

Don't forget to add your expense of shipping your gun back and forth to the factory.
S&W only pays shipping on warranty service. Elective gunsmithing is not covered.

Thanks for the explanations everyone.

For $150 I would think you would have to consider purchasing Apex parts. Wouldn't that be equivalent or better?

Another vote here for Apex updates. Cheaper, faster, and you don't have to live without your gun for several weeks.
If you have (or know somebody that has) moderate mechanical skills and basic tools, the Apex parts install in minutes.

 

[e-jism]

I bought my M&P 40 in January 2013 and it has a fired date of July 2012. The trigger was very gritty with little or no reset feel. I purchased the Apex fully machined sear ($42) and ultimate striker block ($36) for a total of about $86.50 (this price includes $8.50 shipping). Ordered on Sunday and received on Wednesday. It took about 30 minutes to install both. I don't have a trigger gauge so I couldn't say what the actual trigger pull is now, but there is a noticeable difference. I can feel the reset, as it is more evident now. The trigger grinding noise is gone, too. Can't wait to try it on the range.

 

[shogan191]

If you guys drop by the XDTalk forum they can show you how to post pictures LOL JK

Do all Shields have the better trigger?

 

[jagger5]

I got a new m&p9fs and 45fs in January. The test fire on the 9 was Jan 2013, and the 45 Nov 2012. The 9 has a definite trigger reset. There is a solid click that you can hear and feel. The trigger reset on the 45 is pretty soft. Though, I can't say say for certain, since they are my first m&ps and I haven't really handled the "old" style (other than my NEW 45?) . This is just my observation to add to the conversation.

 

[robkarrob]

The Shield 40 and 9mm are identical in all ways except for the barrels, slide opening at the sight hole, and markings on the slide. They both have the "new & improved" trigger action. When the Shields came out in April, S&W told several magazines and gun television shows that they would eventually incorporate the Shield trigger action into the rest of the M&P pistol models. The Guns & Ammo advertisement states “Positive, Tactile Trigger Reset." So hopefully all M&P pistols will be shipped with the new & improved trigger action.

Bob

 

[loveMD]

I just got my new M&P 9 today and wanted to provide some feedback. The date on the slug was 1/16/13. After dry firing several times and checking out the trigger, the reset was pronounced you could definitely feel and hear it. The trigger feel was slightly gritty however so I will shoot if for awhile and perhaps look into adding some apex parts, possibly just the striker blocker.

 

[Hillbilly77]

I just got my new M&P 9 today and wanted to provide some feedback. The date on the slug was 1/16/13. After dry firing several times and checking out the trigger, the reset was pronounced you could definitely feel and hear it. The trigger feel was slightly gritty however so I will shoot if for awhile and perhaps look into adding some apex parts, possibly just the striker blocker.

So far the striker block is all I've put into my M&P9c and I love it.
The Apex striker block removes the gritty feeling.

Before I change the sear I am going to compare my trigger to a friend's gun that has the Apex sear to see how the new style compares.

 

[loveMD]

Yeah, how difficult was removing the rear site? Did you have to heat it to remove the screw, was it difficult to slide? Will probably end up making that switch.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

 

[vtecwil]

My first M&P pistol

Hello everyone , I just purchased my M&P 9f the first week of febuary . I really love the ergonomics of the pistol , the trigger , not so much . The trigger was very gritty , so I set out to remedy this problem . So I gathered all my tools and supplies to do the burwell trigger job . After taking out the sear I noticed it has a profile very similar to the apex hard sear . What I ended up doing was just polishing all the relevant parts . The grittyness in my trigger pull was coming from the striker block bore , so I took my file and cleaned it up and polished the striker block plunger , lubed and put it back together . Now the trigger pull is smooth as glass and just a little lighter . My test fire date is 1-16-13 . The reset is pretty good , but not quite as good as my G-21 . Hope this helps out someone who is wondering .

 

[Hillbilly77]

Yeah, how difficult was removing the rear site? Did you have to heat it to remove the screw, was it difficult to slide? Will probably end up making that switch.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

Loosen and/or remove the set screw. Use a hammer and a brass punch (or a sight-pusher tool available in the classified section here) to drive the sight off. You may need to give it a couple good smacks to get it to move.
Apex includes a tool to slide into the groove so the spring on the striker block doesn't fly away on you. Also there are videos on YouTube to assist you.
When you remove the sight, remove it left-to-right. Re-install right-to-left. The right side is determined by how you hold the gun in your hand. The ejection port is on the right side.
All in all, it's pretty easy.

 

[vtecwil]

My rear sight came off pretty easy using a brass punch and plastic hammer . Set screw no problem either .

 

[loveMD]

Sweet, thanks guys. I will likely be doing the same procedure soon. I'm ok w the new sear and reset.....grits gotta go tho.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

 

[Dino1]

Heat the rear site,they use red loctite on the set screw. if you strip out the set screw you are pretty much screwed... no pun intended. Red Loctite requires heat to soften it up, do not skip this step. You do not have to get it red hot, just very warm. I just removed mine tonight to put in new Trijicon sites, and an Apex trigger kit. If you are putting in Trijicon sites, use a site pusher, they do not like to be whacked on with a hammer, my LGS loaned me the site pusher. Great folks.

 

[1990]

Picking up a new FS 9 this week. Will see if it has he new trigger setup.

 

[IAMSWUTIAMS]

I just bought an M&P 9 last weekend. Still have to wait another week to pick it up. I guess I'll find out then if I have the old , or new and improved.

 

[judgecrater]

Yeah, how difficult was removing the rear site? Did you have to heat it to remove the screw, was it difficult to slide? Will probably end up making that switch.

Removing the rear sight is doable with hand tools. The locking screw let go without heating, but that might be a good idea. Lacking a brass punch, I used a 9mm casing to hammer on. I squared the head a little with a file so it would offer more contact area against the side of the sight. It took some pounding but slid off without any damage. Replacement and subsequent removal was fairly easy in comparison. I am pretty sure that I will not be reloading that particular piece of brass again.
I did install the APEX sear and a Burwell polish/alteration to the striker block. The outcome was outstanding.

 

[loveMD]

Haha, good advice. Would a hair dryer heat enough or do I need a flame? Gonna have to see if I can find a pusher, can probably tap it out if not. Ordering the apex usb. That will make it good enough for my usage.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

 

[RockBottom]

Depends.

All that might be said (without actually examining the rest of the gun) is that the yellow slide stop assembly spring, if present, is the latest revision. The original wire spring was unpainted, and then it was followed by a red one, and then a light blue one, and then the yellow one.

The red one remained in the 9's when the .40's & .45's received the light blue one, and then the yellow one came about during some further testing of the .357's, and then was selectively used for repair purpose in some .40's. Now it appears they're going to standardize on the yellow spring in all the standard models.

The original slide stop assembly with the yellow painted wire spring was being used before the slide stop assembly was itself recently revised to add the angled bend on the right/rear bottom corner. I replaced a slide stop assembly with the yellow spring in one of my M&P's with the new revised slide stop assembly with not only the yellow spring, but also with the new beveled corner on the right side lever.

Now, for everyone else who is eager to have a noticeably tactile "reset" ...

All this talk of trying to discover the absolute latest & greatest revisions (plural) in any particular production vintage of M&P's is all fine and dandy, but I've been handling and shooting random models made over the last several years, including some pretty recent ones (and including a M&P VTTC 9) ... as well as some that have had the popular aftermarket parts added to them (by armorers) ... and I've listened to other instructors & armorers express their opinions that they've all started to feel pretty much alike when you stand around on the firing line trying the triggers in both dry & live-fire. Especially in dynamic live-fire drills, when you aren't standing around carefully listening and feeling for "tactile trigger reset".

The whole "sear reset issue" may be popular on the internet, and to slow-fire target/competition shooters ... and the market demand for such a feature has prompted S&W to try and meet the perceived desire for this feature ... but shooting to trigger recovery in dynamic, past-paced & demanding training & qual drills seems to be something you hear discussed more often by LE firearms instructors, compared to trigger reset.

I've seen at least my fair share of folks try to keep their fingers on the triggers of their pistols after firing an intentional shot (or shots), trying to hold them at the "reset point", and then experience their guns unexpectedly firing. Sometimes it's seemed it was them unconsciously rocking the triggers during recoil ... or being startled (which having the weapon unexpectedly discharge can really do, yet further lending itself to another "startle response") ... or experiencing a muscle tremor (yip, etc).

Losing balance momentarily (balance destabilization was the popular term for a while), or hand/finger confusion (mixing up tasks being done by one hand with the other) may also be factors. I've known a couple of highly trained and experienced LE folks end up putting holes in things they didn't intended to shoot when their "trigger fingers" mirrored what their other index fingers were being told to do, performing other tasks in high stress situations.

It's just that if the gun fires without the shooter having made a conscious decision to fire that specific round, the round is still going to land somewhere, and the shooter is still going to be responsible for it ... and being in the position of saying that their finger had been deliberately on the trigger, trying to hold the trigger at the "reset point" when the weapon discharged, isn't something anyone probably wants to try to explain. Especially in a legal proceeding.

Hey, just some thoughts. Sorry for going off-topic, but I sometimes feel this whole "trigger reset" thing is often blown out of proportion and taken out of context by some folks.

I'm not sure if that is correct re: the yellow slide-stop assembly. I just bought a M&P40 and it had a test fire date of 11/29/12, and it had the light blue paint, so if there is a uniform switch to yellow it is very recent.