Bodyguard 2.0 questions

[kelljor]

Just picked up a slightly used bodyguard 380....guess the owner didn't like it cause it looks barely used. Got a couple of questions though.
The biggie is, in the book, I am supposed to push down on the ejector, rotate the lever and ride the slide down and off. Try as I might, I cannot get the ejector to move. I read in the internet that I should run the slide down, gently of course, until it stops then pull the trigger and slide it off. That works fine.
So is that a modification to the gun that didn't make it to print in the manual, or do I risk damaging something.
Also, and this is a minor question, The book shows 6 lube points....none in the slide; only on the frame and barrel. One on the front of the barrel, one on the back of the barrel just in front of the chamber, and one on the top of each of the rails on the frame (if I do that I smear a little inside the rail also). Is this all it needs? Doesn't seem to be enough. I tend to put a drop in the back, middle, and front of the rails, put the slide on the gun without springs or barrel and work the slide back and forth. Then I remove the slide and smear a little on the frame where the slide rubs if I missed it. The rest is outside of barrel, barrel pivot point etc, you know how that goes.
This might sound kinda dumb, but I am basically a revolver and 1911 style guy with ninetyteen lube points. Don't have a lot of experience with this style.


Thanks

 

[tarheel13]

Various clients insist that pistols they buy or authorize must be able to be disassembled without pulling the trigger. They consider that to be a safety feature. But pulling the trigger works too although the manual does not say that. In this instance, I choose to pull the trigger.

 

[Cphobes]

Pulling the trigger is fine, lubricate as you see fit the gun will tell you if it isn't enough or too much I'd think.

 

[GnarlsR2]

I've always gone by the Safety & Instruction Manual.

I use a No 2 pencil eraser to push the ejector down and towards the barrel chamber. It will click down with minimum push of the pencil.

I use the pencil eraser to push the ejector back up after mounting the slide and rotating the take down lever back into position, rather than popping in an empty magazine.

I don't recall seeing any video using the Safety & Instruction Manual's method.

Lubrication: I put drops on the 6 points plus a drop on the ejector claw and a drop on the striker safety button.

 

[pinefd]

I don't recall seeing any video using the Safety & Instruction Manual's method.

I actually didn't read the Safety & Instruction Manual, but instead watched a couple of videos done by people I like and trust. And they used the pulling of the trigger method; so I didn't even realize that there was an alternative way to do it (i.e., the way shown in the manual) until I came upon this video:




Frank

 

[GnarlsR2]

I actually didn't read the Safety & Instruction Manual, but instead watched a couple of videos done by people I like and trust. And they used the pulling of the trigger method; so I didn't even realize that there was an alternative way to do it (i.e., the way shown in the manual) until I came upon this video:




Frank

I just assumed that S&W knows something about their new BG2 that is important for removing of the slide with the ejector in its down position.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Wow, learn new things every day, though it has never been a problem, pushing down the ejector.
Since, Glock appeared on the scene, a 'less is more' philosophy has prevailed. For those not familiar, Glock's directs that an oil bottle is to be kept in the same zip code as the pistol.
Personal solution, get a needle oiler, to avoid over-oiling. Then, put a thin line on anything that moves against anything else, and look for shiny spots, as a gun is used. Make sure they get a dab especially.
Most mfgs do discourage oiling the firing pin itself.
Moon

 

[Mollari]

Pushing the ejector is just needing to grab another tool. It's a method designed when you don't trust the user to make sure it's clear. Just pull the trigger to get the slide to come off. If it hasn't been used much, it will be "sticking" and seem to catch a bit. I'd advise putting the ammo in another room and racking the slide a few hundred times to loosen it up.

As for oil- follow the manual. You don't want oil in the striker area. Keep in mind that oil does oxidize and turn into varnish (some more than others). You don't want that places where it's going to interfere with the boom-poker (striker) as you don't want a bad strike when you need it. In the other areas, the oil is just making it run smoother and feed better, all in places where it's easy to clean any crud off. Do clean it where it says in the manual.

If you find it not going into battery, the slide is likely still sticky. Save money and spend a few nights racking it. Oil it. Get it smooth. It will eventually reliably go into battery. It will likely take some range time too. The debris from firing will actually help polish the surfaces that rub and lead to a perfect fit.