M1 Garand reloading 2.0

[71vette]

I used up all my IMR-4895 with my previous “M80” bullet loads. I only had 2 pounds so no big deal. I have 10-ish pounds of H-4895 so I wanted to work up a “duplicate” load. The IMR load I standardized on 47 grains for 2560fps. With H-4985 I tried 45 grains (per GRT) and it was spotty on cycling my Springfield and the velocity was about 100 fps low. I bumped up 1/2 a grain and tested again today. No issues with cycling and I averaged 2540fps. Both of these tests used Remington commercial brass and Remington magnum primers.

147gr FMJBT M80 bullet
47gr IMR-4895, 3.25” COAL, Remington LRM (45.5gr H-4895)

24” M1 (IMR): 2560fps
24” M1 (H-4895): 2540fps

These two loads are close enough that they fall within the SD of each other. They also cycle perfectly from my ‘43 Springfield and my ‘43 Winchester. It’s 88 degrees today so no accuracy testing…….

 

[USSR]

Your front handguard looks good, but you really need to replace that birch stock and rear handguard with walnut.

 

[M1A4ME]

It functions but the velocity seems a little low for 150 grain bullets.

I'll have to try some H4895 one of these days. Like you, all my IMR4895 is used up.

For me group size is more important than velocity.

Good luck with it. It's fun to make the old M1's shoot good groups.

 

[rwsmith]

It functions but the velocity seems a little low for 150 grain bullets.

I'll have to try some H4895 one of these days. Like you, all my IMR4895 is used up.

For me group size is more important than velocity.

Good luck with it. It's fun to make the old M1's shoot good groups.

Sounds like you got where you want to go. All that's left is accuracy. Like M1A4ME I wouldn't be adverse to bumping it up a little.

 

[Claymore33]

Your front handguard looks good, but you really need to replace that birch stock and rear handguard with walnut.

Or you can apply 6 coats of tung oil

 

[M1A4ME]

If you look for it on the internet there is stain colored so as to darken the wood stocks and make them look old/original. All mine are walnut and I have not tried to use any of that stain.

I did try to stain a European beech stock that was on a Greek return M1 Garand I got at the CMP North Store. Didn't suit me. Something about the wood resulted in big lighter circles here and there and no amount of stain would blend them into the rest of the wood. That stock got replaced and trashed.

 

[71vette]

Currently I have a pair of Garands. The pictured Springfield is a ‘43 with a ‘53 SA barrel. The prior owner got it from an estate with damaged furniture and he put the beechwood on it. My ‘43 Winchester has a ‘57 VAR barrel and dark walnut furniture. At this point I’m leaving them alone. I’m planning on hitting the CMP north store this fall and picking up something else. I’d love a Harvester or a Navy. We shall see…..

The Winchester with a Remington Rand.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Your front handguard looks good, but you really need to replace that birch stock and rear handguard with walnut.

It can be stained and oiled.............

 

[USSR]

It can be stained and oiled.............

You can't stain it to match walnut. In fact, I have been selling my stain for 15 years, and I tell my customers it just plain won't work on birch or beech wood.

https://forums.thecmp.org/forum/mar...e/other/22141-wts-ussr-service-rifle-stain-ny

 

[JimFr]

71vette . . .
Are you SURE the stock and lower handgard are Beechwood?
American black walnut comes in many shades . . .and the grain structure on yours tells me it is a light shade of walnut.

 

[Shotguncoach]

I have 3…a Springfield, an IHC, and an H&R. Still looking for a good Winchester. The Springfield has been set up as a bedded national match, the others are correct as-issued.

I’ll have to check my notes, but IIRC my rifles preferred the H over the I, and my loads are 1 grain higher than the OP.

M1’s are beautiful machines that never fail to draw attention at the range.

Here’s the Springfield at the long range steel course where I shoot.

 

[oneeyedpete]

Stain doesn't work on birch. You need to use an aniline dye. Very easy to match the walnut handguard color.

 

[USSR]

Stain doesn't work on birch. You need to use an aniline dye. Very easy to match the walnut handguard color.

Even if you managed to somewhat match the color of walnut, you will never be able to match the grain and it will always stick out as a birch stock.

 

[Engineer1911]

Loooong ago I bought a pint can of Minwax 'Dark Ebony' stain. It gives any wood a dark color some place between dark walnut to almost black. It darkened Ruger 10-22 stocks. After the stain dried I applied a flat stock finish coat, but I don't remember the name.

 

[Dave Haynes]

I did A LOT of testing in the 80s with an exceptional M1 and Sierra International 168s. The barrel was a new 11/65 SA. The powder that worked the best by far was IMR 4064. I originally chose it because in the old Lyman book 4064 gave the best velocity with the lowest CUP. 4895 and Varget wasn't even close for accuracy. At 100 yds using SR-1 targets on a perfect day, 45 gr shot teacup sized groups, 48 gr put 5 dead center that you could cover with a US Quarter. Over and over the same result. I even used these cartridges in an 03A3 2 groove and it did the same thing. In those days Hornady's match 168s were not close and the Sierra International was the bullet of choice for the Army teams shooting the M-14. A perfect day and 40 year old eyes were a big part of it. I went on to win 5 bench rest shoots with that rifle and that load.