Tanners Owner
US Veteran
I have a pinned pencil barreled M10 & may want to get a heavy barrel for it. Would a pinned heavy barrel from a M13/ 65 work without significant fitting? Anything I should look for?
M13/65 barrel on M10?
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The .357 mag guns have a longer cylinder so the barrel/forcing cone would be a bit shorter within the frame window than a .38 special barrel gun....
The barrel to cylinder gap would be too wide unless the barrel could be shaved to have the shank/forcing cone closer to the cylinder.
Might be workable but would involve additional machining than just trying to install a factory barrel.
Just my understanding.....
The barrel to cylinder gap would be too wide unless the barrel could be shaved to have the shank/forcing cone closer to the cylinder.
Might be workable but would involve additional machining than just trying to install a factory barrel.
Just my understanding.....
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The Model 10 was made with a Bull Barrel so that is the one I'd suggest using. You might be able to find one.
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Before you embark on this project, you might want to double check that the frame contours where the frame meets the barrel will match properly.
Protocall_Design
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It would be a fairly easy project if you used a M13/65 cylinder as well.
Would not look right. The only frame that would mate up properly is one made for a heavy barrel. Otherwise, you'll have a big, unsightly gap where the frame was made to taper down to the dimensions of the barrel.
One poster mentioned that the barrel could be machined to fit your .38 cylinder. Very true, but that will also mean that the ejector rod must be cut or replaced to match.
I had a 3" heavy barrel marked "S&W .38 Special" that turned out to have the dimensions for a .357 instead. Fortunately, my gunsmith had a .357 cylinder in his drawer and put together a great little gun. But I had a heavy-barrel frame, so the barrel diameter was not an issue. I suggest looking for the proper frame, otherwise you'll either have an obvious frankengun that you won't be able to give away or spend a lot more than its worth to make it right.
One poster mentioned that the barrel could be machined to fit your .38 cylinder. Very true, but that will also mean that the ejector rod must be cut or replaced to match.
I had a 3" heavy barrel marked "S&W .38 Special" that turned out to have the dimensions for a .357 instead. Fortunately, my gunsmith had a .357 cylinder in his drawer and put together a great little gun. But I had a heavy-barrel frame, so the barrel diameter was not an issue. I suggest looking for the proper frame, otherwise you'll either have an obvious frankengun that you won't be able to give away or spend a lot more than its worth to make it right.
OP
Tanners Owner
US Veteran
Team- thanks for the feedback- just what I wanted/ needed to hear
As stated the 357 barrels have a shorter shank that the 38 spec barrels as the 357 cylinders are longer. You need to take enough off the 357 barrel shoulders to set them back 3-4 complete turns to be able to use a model 10 cylinder and adjust the gap correctly.
The front profile is another small factor
It is simpler if you also use the 357 cylinder
Here is a model 10-7 with a nickle model 13 barrel and cylinder. Look close and you can see the slight miss match where the barrel rib frame junction
Here is a model 10-7 with a 38 special heavy barrel and the same thing.
I bought 7 of the J&G model 10-7 frames with no barrels
Here is one that became a 327 mag.
The front profile is another small factor
It is simpler if you also use the 357 cylinder
Here is a model 10-7 with a nickle model 13 barrel and cylinder. Look close and you can see the slight miss match where the barrel rib frame junction
Here is a model 10-7 with a 38 special heavy barrel and the same thing.
I bought 7 of the J&G model 10-7 frames with no barrels
Here is one that became a 327 mag.
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