M1917?

[Glenn R. McMannly]

As a military surplus enthusiast, the S&W M1917 .45 ACP has always peaked my interest.

With that said, I’m also a shooter. I like to use and shoot all my milsurps.

Bottom line, how fragile or durable would a good condition M1917 be? Any worry of parts breakages and if so, are replacements available? I highly doubt S&W would work on such an old gun or even be able to but is that so?

Thanks so much for the help and stay warm.

Glenn

 

[Borderboss]

They're definitely durable as long as you don't shoot hot-rodded loads. The .45 ACP is pretty low pressure for an N-frame. Parts of the most part are just your average N-frame parts. Finding a new barrel would be an adventure unless you don't care about original imprints, but I assume you do. The biggest issue will be finding one that's in time, or you have to get that fixed.

 

[26betsam]

If you shoot standard .45 ACP loads,you'll run out of money before you wear out th gun.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

I highly doubt S&W would work on such an old gun or even be able to but is that so?

You are correct. S&W considers the gun to be obsolete. They typically will only work on guns for which they have parts on hand.

 

[JH1951]

As a military surplus enthusiast, the S&W M1917 .45 ACP has always peaked my interest.

With that said, I’m also a shooter. I like to use and shoot all my milsurps.

Bottom line, how fragile or durable would a good condition M1917 be? Any worry of parts breakages and if so, are replacements available? I highly doubt S&W would work on such an old gun or even be able to but is that so?

Thanks so much for the help and stay warm.

Glenn

Glenn, you have good taste! The .45 ACP 1917 is a classic. They are also fun to shoot and surprisingly accurate. They are well designed and well made.
The 1917 is not a fragile design. One in good mechanical condition, if treated well, will generally not present any problems, and can provide several lifetimes of use and enjoyment.
You are correct that S&W will not service them any longer. Original replacement parts (except for barrels for some reason) are generally available, and a moderately skilled individual or gunsmith should encounter no difficulties performing service if any would become necessary.
Look for one in very good mechanical condition and you will be on your way to enjoyment. There are often a good selection of 1917's available for sale. The Brazilian contract models are still the bargain in the litter, and they provide the same pleasure when shooting them. You will find patience to be your friend when looking for a nice one, as there are always high-priced abused examples out there too.
Get yourself some some quality 1/2 moon clips and some .45 ACP ammo to go along with your 1917 and you are on the path to enjoyment.

Here's a picture of my Brazilian range fun-gun......


and here's a picture of a safe queen that doesn't get out much......

 

[65-2x2]

The 1917 is a hoot to shoot. You can find old commercial or military models or there are some recent "Classic" reproductions available. (Early post WWI Commercial (top) and "Classic" model 22-4.)

 

[Gun Relics]

As a military surplus enthusiast, the S&W M1917 .45 ACP has always peaked my interest.

With that said, I’m also a shooter. I like to use and shoot all my milsurps.

Bottom line, how fragile or durable would a good condition M1917 be? Any worry of parts breakages and if so, are replacements available? I highly doubt S&W would work on such an old gun or even be able to but is that so?

Thanks so much for the help and stay warm.

Glenn

There are lots of parts out there because they were produced in great quantity and many military guns were disassembled for parts. Generally very durable but many have already been shot a lot. I would say proper timing and tight action is very important. The 1917's are fun to shoot. They are a heavy duty large frame double action with a long, solid action. If you buy one, I would buy a tool to help load and unload the moon clips or shoot .45 auto rim.

I think they are great guns but selecting quality old military guns is not the easiest process. Before you buy one, study them and understand the markings, military stamps, proper functions and originality. Many have been modified. I would pay up and get a good one, there are a lot of guns out there hashed together from parts during and after military service. It's best to know what you're looking for and even experienced buyers get lemons. I would also consider the Colt 1917 or one of each. The Colt is a little beefier.

Here are mine - a Colt (bottom) from 1919 and a S &W transitional commercial from 1947.

 

[erikpolcrack]

I've had one for about 40 years and shoot it regularly. Never had the slighest problem with it. Not sure I have a center fire revolver I've shot more. Got a good buy on a real beater a few years back. It looks terrible but works perfectly and is also really fun to shoot. Neither one will ever be for sale.

Edit: I guess I should have mentioned that part of the reason I am such an M1917 fan is that for years I have been a real M1911 fan. I have several in 45 ACP and several in other calibers. I shoot them more than any other auto. BTW, I don't have any trouble loading or unloading moon/half-moon clips without using any tools. I do have big hands and am over 6 ft/200 lbs.

Edit # 2: The "beater" I mentioned above has been bored out to accept 45 Colt. Works great with the TK Custom thin full moon clips. Without the clips I only get about 50% ignition with commercial loads. No one chamber in the cylinder always or never fires. Just a crap shoot. As I understand it, 45 Colt has a roll crimp, making it unreliable for headspacing on the case mouth the way the ACP rounds will. BTW, it still works fine with 45 AR and with 45 ACP in half-moon clips.

 

[LittleAugieMo]

What JH1951 said....with one additional suggestion get the tool to load& unload the half-moon clips. At the time I qualified for my CCW there were three guys from northern Mo. That only brought auto's along( you had to shoot auto AND revolver)....I brought my S&W 1917 to shoot....and when they ask I let them use it....they had a ball!

 

[JH1951]

Getting a load/unload tool is a good idea. Dig around here on the Forum and you will find how to make a simple one from the shaft of an old golf club. IIRC it is really simple and quite effective. You can also shoot .45 ACP without a moon clip, but you will need a pencil or chopstick to get the empties to come out. As stated above, .45 AutoRim is a good alternative, but I find it too expensive so I just stick with ACP. If you reload the AutoRim, that eases the financial bite.
And then after you get one you can have fun finding accessories. Brazilian accessories are very far and few in-between, but American stuff is still out there.....

 

[quinn]

...about as fragile as an old John Deere tractor.

 

[chiefdave]

If you desire to shoot 45 Colt in your 1917 have the charge holes bored and use the thin moon clips from TK Custom. I think they will also handle the cylinder mod. Makes for a fun shooter and show and tell at the range.

 

[Glenn R. McMannly]

If you desire to shoot 45 Colt in your 1917 have the charge holes bored and use the thin moon clips from TK Custom. I think they will also handle the cylinder mod. Makes for a fun shooter and show and tell at the range.

Very nice. I love the .45 Colt and have a lot of it loaded for my Blackhawk.

If I get one I will get it bored out to be able to use that cartridge.

 

[StrawHat]

S&W has made a variety of ACP revolvers starting in 1917 with the 45 Hand Ejector Model 1917. Just staying with fixed sights, there is the Model 1917 Army, 1917 Commercial, the updated version - the Model 1950 Army and finally the modern version of the Model 1950 Army - the Model 22-4. I like them all.



Kevin

 

[Greyman50]

Years ago when I seriously collected US WW I stuff had a Colt and S&W. Gave son the S&W and sold the Colt. Now have a very nice post WWI Civi version that have not shot yet. Reminds me that it need a range trip.

 

[Gun Relics]

Did anybody see this? Yesterday's closing auctions were pretty damn high.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1149757771

 

[StrawHat]

I just looked at it now. It shipped in July 1946. No S in the serial and yet I have data for Model 1917 Commercial revolvers that shipped before and after that had the S.

Kevin

 

[Goony]

Just for shucks & grins, here's mine, in the 29XXX serial number range. I may be shortly acquiring another with a 4-digit serial number.

 

[Glenn R. McMannly]

So, it seems many have good luck with shooting these.

Other than checking for timing, what other tells are there?

Is there a way to tell a fake or rebuild? Thank you!!

 

[Gun Relics]

So, it seems many have good luck with shooting these.

Other than checking for timing, what other tells are there?

Is there a way to tell a fake or rebuild? Thank you!!

I saw you just bought what looks like a nice one in the classifieds. It has the correct US Army stamp on the bottom of the frame and the number indicates it is WW1 made in 1918. The factory serial number is different than the Army number.

It should have the "United States Property" stamp under the barrel. The one you bought shows an army inspection stamp on the left frame just ahead of the hammer. If it's completely original, the serial number should be stamped under barrel above the ejector rod, on the back of the cylinder, and the yoke. To test the cylinder for modifications, you should be able to chamber a .45 acp but not a colt .45 LC. Other inspection stamps, for example an eagle head near the barrel serial number. These are just the basics. These other guys here know a lot more than I do.

When you get it, post some pics of these areas please for future posterity.

 

[Mike4MSU]

They are indeed awesome revolvers. As others have said, they are not fragile as long as you’re not shooting hot loads. I was fortunate enough to find one with a serial number under 15k with the early concave grips and concentric grooved hammer.

 

[Muley Gil]

So, it seems many have good luck with shooting these.

Other than checking for timing, what other tells are there?

Is there a way to tell a fake or rebuild? Thank you!!

Check for all matching numbers, just like any other old S&W. A Parkerized finish indicates a WW II rebuild, as does additional matching stamped on major parts.

 

[Muley Gil]

I saw you just bought what looks like a nice one in the classifieds. It has the correct US Army stamp on the bottom of the frame and the number indicates it is WW1 made in 1918. The factory serial number is different than the Army number.

It should have the "United States Property" stamp under the barrel. The one you bought shows an army inspection stamp on the left frame just ahead of the hammer. If it's completely original, the serial number should be stamped under barrel above the ejector rod, on the back of the cylinder, and the yoke. To test the cylinder for modifications, you should be able to chamber a .45 acp but not a colt .45 LC. Other inspection stamps, for example an eagle head near the barrel serial number. These are just the basics. These other guys here know a lot more than I do.

When you get it, post some pics of these areas please for future posterity.

That is true for Colt 1917s, not for S&W 1917s. Colt 1917s have the US Army number on the butt, but the number stamped on the frame behind the crane is part of the New Service serial number range.

The S&W 1917s have their own serial number range and that number IS the US Army number.

 

[Scot Templar]

Here is a bit of quirky for the group, picked this up from a company that does a bunch of estate business for a few Benjamin's. This started out life as a 1937 production Argentine mil pistol, supposedly made on S&W equipment in S. America for their Army issue. After import into the US, someone with quite a bit of extra funds to spend ,turned this gun was turned into the FrankinSmith seen in the pictures below with :

1. Barrel cut to 4" & addition of target sites.
2. Re-parkerized (with some care I might add) and all stamping is still visible.
3. A serious trigger action, double = 4.5lbs & single + 1.1lbs + smooth as glass.
4. Added vintage S&W targets that look like new.

The gun shoots very well, tight groups as the lock up is very strong and surprisingly low recoil with standard 230gr milspec.

 

[Gun Relics]

That is true for Colt 1917s, not for S&W 1917s. Colt 1917s have the US Army number on the butt, but the number stamped on the frame behind the crane is part of the New Service serial number range.

The S&W 1917s have their own serial number range and that number IS the US Army number.

Thanks for the correction.

 

[A10]

Here is a bit of quirky for the group, picked this up from a company that does a bunch of estate business for a few Benjamin's. This started out life as a 1937 production Argentine mil pistol, supposedly made on S&W equipment in S. America for their Army issue. After import into the US, someone with quite a bit of extra funds to spend ,turned this gun was turned into the FrankinSmith seen in the pictures below with :

1. Barrel cut to 4" & addition of target sites.
2. Re-parkerized (with some care I might add) and all stamping is still visible.
3. A serious trigger action, double = 4.5lbs & single + 1.1lbs + smooth as glass.
4. Added vintage S&W targets that look like new.

The gun shoots very well, tight groups as the lock up is very strong and surprisingly low recoil with standard 230gr milspec.

View attachment 835264 View attachment 835267

Would I modify a 1917 to match yours? No. Would I buy yours in a new york second? Absolutely! Might even pay a premium for it!

That is very very cool!

 

[Muley Gil]

Here is a bit of quirky for the group, picked this up from a company that does a bunch of estate business for a few Benjamin's. This started out life as a 1937 production Argentine mil pistol, supposedly made on S&W equipment in S. America for their Army issue. After import into the US, someone with quite a bit of extra funds to spend ,turned this gun was turned into the FrankinSmith seen in the pictures below with :

1. Barrel cut to 4" & addition of target sites.
2. Re-parkerized (with some care I might add) and all stamping is still visible.
3. A serious trigger action, double = 4.5lbs & single + 1.1lbs + smooth as glass.
4. Added vintage S&W targets that look like new.

The gun shoots very well, tight groups as the lock up is very strong and surprisingly low recoil with standard 230gr milspec.

View attachment 835264 View attachment 835267

Are you sure that isn't a 1917 built in Springfield, Mass by Smith & Wesson in 1937 for the Brazilian government?

I did a similar modification to a nickel plated 1917.

Argentina DID make copies of the Colt 1911 semi auto pistol.

 

[gew98]

Check for all matching numbers, just like any other old S&W. A Parkerized finish indicates a WW II rebuild, as does additional matching stamped on major parts.

Saw a gorgeous ww2 period parked finish 1917 at a small show a month ago. Guy asked $700 , almost jumped on it but then I looked at the bottom of the barrel and the US property had been dremeled off and touch up blue put over that mess. A hard pass I told the guy. He tried to tell me it was a 1919 model - I even showed him where US MODE-EL was ground off on the butt of grip. I offered him $500 just for a shooter . He kept that poor thing.

 

[lestuff]

They are indeed awesome revolvers. As others have said, they are not fragile as long as you’re not shooting hot loads. I was fortunate enough to find one under 15k with the early concave grips and concentric grooved hammer. View attachment 835249

Very nice! Me too. Mine is *much* more war-worn than yours. It appears to have intercepted a bullet to the hip at some point :-o The holster that came with it was left-handed. To answer the OPs question, even with the bullet damage the frame is straight and the gun shoots well. it takes more than that to kill an N-frame S&W! This one is also a low serial # 113xx.

 

[Mike4MSU]

Very nice! Me too. Mine is *much* more war-worn than yours. It appears to have intercepted a bullet to the hip at some point :-o The holster that came with it was left-handed. To answer the OPs question, even with the bullet damage the frame is straight and the gun shoots well. it takes more than that to kill an N-frame S&W! This one is also a low serial # 113xx.

If only they could talk… Might not be as clean, but beautiful in its own right.