M63 tight chambers

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I have a no dash M63 and with some 22lr ammo it's tough to load/ unload.

I've read about using a reamer, but to be honest , am hesitant to do so based on my experience and available tools. (Mainly concerned about keeping the reamer true and not angling it)

Is there another recommendation to use a polish- flitz or something first before resorting to a reamer? If so, any guidance?

Thanks in advance- love my M63, but with the ammo environment want to be able to use any 22lr I can find.
 
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The reamer is guided by a pilot on the end, and the original hole. You won't angle it without deliberately trying pretty hard. If the chambers are clean and it's hard to load unfired rounds, you need a reamer.
 
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All, first off thanks for the info, insight and links. Very, very helpful.

From one of the posts in the links, I saw a poster recommended trying the cloth lead remover. Thought I'd try it prior to getting a reamer and going that route.

Appears, my last cleaning wasn't that good and now all rounds drop right in/ out. Somewhat embarrassed, but amazing what a new bore brush, lead remover and some elbow grease will do. Will repeat this regime after each time at the range.

Doesn't mean this loading unloading will last for more than a cylinder full, but will give it a try for now and see what happens. If needed, I am armed with the info to go the reamer route.

Thanks again.
 
I cleaned M17out when I got it with a Lewis Lead remover kit. folloe=wed by a 22 bore brush. I used lots of Hoppes at both stages and then swabbed it well. I made a 1/8 brass rod with a handle to clear any stuck cases down the line. So far, when using Eley standard velocity ammo I have smooth easy ejection. When using CCI mini mags I get some sticking after a couple of cylinders full. SO I shoot Eley.
 
Doesn't mean this loading unloading will last for more than a cylinder full, but will give it a try for now and see what happens. If needed, I am armed with the info to go the reamer route.

Thanks again.

I always recommend the polishing option before going to the more aggressive reaming option. It's always worked on stainless guns especially. Matching SS is not unlike aluminum and tends to leave a rougher surface especially if the factory reamer was getting dull.
 
S&W 22 Revolvers are very often plagued with overly tight chambers-quite common. While a thorough cleaning helps for a few dozen shots, many wind up using a finishing Reamer for a permanent solution.

If you do wind up having to go that route, use lots of cutting oil and clean out chips and debris often during the process. A relatively easy and straight forward job however read instructions a few times.
 
Use J-B Bore Cleaner , it is a very fine abrasive , used by benchrest shoots to maintain their barrels .
Use a old bore brush on a short section of cleaning rod , wrap it with a thin layer of 0000 steel wool (or copper wool if you have it ) to get a tight fit , wet the wool wrapped brush with any oil , solvent or WD40 or CLP and smear on a good amount of J-B Bore cleaner , you can twist the brush in the chambers by hand or chuck the rod in a drill and run it on slow . Having the cylinder mounted in a padded vise helps , but you can hold the cylinder in one hand and the rod in the other and get a decent cleaning - polishing of the chamber . Do Not remove any metal , just polish what's there . You don't want to enlarge the chamber . Test fire the gun and if needed ...repeat .

If the cleaning / polishing doesn't do the trick ... I would have a gunsmith do a professional job of reaming them larger ...they have all the tools and can keep things straight , level , plumb and true .
Gary
 
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