Magnetic parts ?

[PatriotX]

Hi folks,

Every once in a while, I run across some revolver parts (and sometimes even a gun) that stick to the screwdriver. Since I only collect stainless guns, it’s been a curiosity.

Last piece was a bolt, blued steel, that would pick up a couple of paper clips off the bench. Before that was a stainless cylinder stop that would stick to anything ferrous. A stainless bolt from an early 66 was also pretty grabby, and I remember a mainspring or two.

I had an import 681 from Australia that was lightly magnetic overall.


Anyone else run into this, or should I pass a Geiger counter over myself?

Thanks!

 

[Protocall_Design]

Most stainless guns are made of 410 or 416 SS. These alloys have enough iron to be somewhat magnetic.

 

[Alk8944]

The stainless steel used in most firearms is magnetic. Both the Iron and Nickel components of stainless steels are magnetic. The belief that stainless steel is not magnetic is basically a myth that began from years ago when stainless steels containing a high percentage of Chromium and used decoratively were not. The non-magnetic stainless alloys are also, usually, relatively soft and are not suitable for firearms. Knives made of those steels also do not hold an edge well at all!

Try checking your stainless guns with a magnet and you will see this is true. It is your screwdriver that is magnetized, not the guns. I think you are confusing metal being magnetic and being magnetized. These are not the same thing.

 

[dfariswheel]

It's not at all rare for small gun parts to be magnetized slightly.
No, it's not the screwdriver, small parts will be attracted to each other.
Non-magnetic screwdriver bits also get magnetized slightly.
Small watch parts get magnetized, which is why we use non-magnetic screwdrivers and tweezers.

This has no adverse effects, and if it bugs you, buy an inexpensive watchmakers demagnetizer.

 

[2152hq]

You can de-magnitize small parts with an electric soldering gun if you have one.
The type that has the soldering point that is formed by a loop of metal out in front of the 'gun'.

Press the trigger of the soldering gun and hold it 'on'.
Then just pass the magnitized part thru the loop and back out w/o the part touching the loop/heating element.

That will de-magnitize the part or tool .
Repeat if it needs more de-mag'ing.

I have to do it quite often to HS steel gravers and sometimes punches that seem to get magnitized while working. It's annoying to have the points & tips of the tools pick up the tiny metal chips and filing dust off the bench and work.

When you pass the part/tool thru the loop you will feel the electro-field try to pull the part around. Keep it from coming in contact with the loop.

 

[Barbarian-CBX]

Austenitic stainless steel (e.g. 304, 316) does not respond to a magnet. Ferritic stainless steel (e.g. 410, 416) is magnetic.

SWCA# 3713

 

[PatriotX]

Try checking your stainless guns with a magnet and you will see this is true. It is your screwdriver that is magnetized, not the guns. I think you are confusing metal being magnetic and being magnetized. These are not the same thing.

As pointed out above, the alloys used here are lightly magnetic. Lightly being the operative word.

My 681 had been magnetized to the point where it would attract iron filings.

I had a stainless cylinder stop that I thought had gone missing. It was actually stuck to the bottom of the parts tray, strongly enough for me to pick it up along with the tray while searching for it.

My curiosity was more on how single parts within a gun, and not others, end up strongly magnetized

Where had this 681 been to make it look like Wooly Willy after waving it near the grinder?