making a knife DIY
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jUST A WAG without tempering they would be brittle and tend to break
with side pressure
with side pressure
kev74
Member
If you're grinding the file to shape it, you might be tempering / annealing the metal if it gets too hot. It will be very difficult to work with in its original state.
Typical process is to anneal the file - heat it red hot and allow it to cool slowly, shape the metal, reharden and temper the knife, then final polish and sharpen.
Typical process is to anneal the file - heat it red hot and allow it to cool slowly, shape the metal, reharden and temper the knife, then final polish and sharpen.
BubbaBlades
Member
If you want to drill holes in the tang or reshape the file you will need to anneal (soften the metal) at a high temperature (1450 degrees + or -). You would then need to reharden the file.
I temper the file with 3 heat (to 450 degrees) then cool cycles to make the metal less brittle but still retain hardness. This process is why I do not drill holes in the tang of my file knives.
I temper the file with 3 heat (to 450 degrees) then cool cycles to make the metal less brittle but still retain hardness. This process is why I do not drill holes in the tang of my file knives.
The assumption that all files are hard is no longer true. Some of the newer imports are only surface hardened. Look for a older file from at least 30 years ago.
If I were starting out I would use a kit blade.
If I were starting out I would use a kit blade.
Some of my favorite knives are made from files. Charlie Davis of Anza Knives says basically the same as above: anneal the file so the metal can be worked, then temper it back to the desired hardness.
For a time The idea of making my own knives from files had some appeal for me, but now I prefer to let Charlie make them.
For a time The idea of making my own knives from files had some appeal for me, but now I prefer to let Charlie make them.
I made a couple from old USA made files. Definitely had to heat and cool to work the shape and drill holes in tang. I had two that came out good and some failures ending up to hard.
Any more I use a good piece of tempered steel, as in industrial blades or other implements. Then do everything by hand to avoid heating and loosing temper. I have 7/16th industrial cobalt bits that will drill hardened steel in tangs.
I would not waste my time on the cold blanked blades of stainless steel that are commonly seen for sale on line. They are nothing but a shiny piece of metal to build a fancy handle on. At least a file is carbon steel.
Any more I use a good piece of tempered steel, as in industrial blades or other implements. Then do everything by hand to avoid heating and loosing temper. I have 7/16th industrial cobalt bits that will drill hardened steel in tangs.
I would not waste my time on the cold blanked blades of stainless steel that are commonly seen for sale on line. They are nothing but a shiny piece of metal to build a fancy handle on. At least a file is carbon steel.
gwpercle
Member
As a kid I made my first knife from a broken file , I had no tools but a grinding wheel and fastened the handle on like the handle of a file . The blade was hard as glass , but I was careful of what I cut (only soft things) the blade will chip if stressed but ... when you get it sharp ...it stays sharp !
My next knife I ground from a "Putty Knife " the putty knife had a wood handle already attached and the putty knife blade was flexible ... I ground it into a nice drop point blade . keeping it cool as I went , and it made a most useful knife ... in fact , I still have it .
I would suggest finding a "Putty Knife" to base your first knife on ... the blades are a tough flexible steel and make a nice small knife .
Files come in all sizes , and can make big knives but unless heat treated they are hard and brittle . I had much better results using putty knife steel .
Keep it cool while shaping (grinding) and it doesn't need heat treating .
Some putty knives and scrapers come in large sizes and you don't have to use the handle that comes on it ... use the steel and grind the blade to shape and add handle of your choice .
Gary
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cgt4570
Member
I made a hunting/skinning knife from a broken file. Since I don't expect much side loading, I'm not too worried about it breaking. I worked it without annealing. I did the bulk work carefully grinding and quenching so as not to anneal. Then I used hard stones and diamond hones for the finishing touches. That was about 20 years ago. Now I just buy semi-finished Damascus blanks.
I use to make knives from old cross cut saws. Still do occasionally. Good steel and stays sharp,
I've found that some saws make better knives than others. I assume that there were different grades of saws and some had better metal than others. Larry
Old Arkansawyer
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I usually anneal by heating to nonmagnetic, some shade of red, then let
it slowly cool. Most of the time a couple cycles to make sure the steel is
relaxed.
Reheat to red and rough forge the blade then file to shape wanted. I
temper using a toaster oven, not the best but will work.
I like to leave a few visible teeth on the blade to show the origin of
the knife.
it slowly cool. Most of the time a couple cycles to make sure the steel is
relaxed.
Reheat to red and rough forge the blade then file to shape wanted. I
temper using a toaster oven, not the best but will work.
I like to leave a few visible teeth on the blade to show the origin of
the knife.
My dad did this ONCE and never again was his motto.
Keeping things symetrical and true was a huge challenge, you dress up on side and it affects EVERYTHING else....
He said that Buck, Queen Steel, Herters etc. can HAVE that job.
Randy
Keeping things symetrical and true was a huge challenge, you dress up on side and it affects EVERYTHING else....
He said that Buck, Queen Steel, Herters etc. can HAVE that job.
Randy
When right out of high school worked in a factory in the tool cage. Got to making knives out of power hacksaw blades. They made decent knives except when edge curved up away from the teeth edge. You could see the temper line that just caught teeth. The rest of blade was mild steel. I was making a lot of them until shop foreman shut me down. He didn’t mind me making knives on company time but when my volume exceeded the worn and broken blades I was dipping into new ones.
The best knife I made was out of some kind of industrial blade with no teeth, to cut fabric. It started out as 5” Bowie pattern. I cracked the blade in a surface grinder and ended up with Conan Barbarian Asian style Bowie,
That knife held an edge you wouldn’t believe. Had friend come to deer camp and everyone had one of my knives except him. He cried till I give it to him.
The best knife I made was out of some kind of industrial blade with no teeth, to cut fabric. It started out as 5” Bowie pattern. I cracked the blade in a surface grinder and ended up with Conan Barbarian Asian style Bowie,
That knife held an edge you wouldn’t believe. Had friend come to deer camp and everyone had one of my knives except him. He cried till I give it to him.
cgt4570
Member
I had a late uncle that was a WW2 CB in the S Pacific. He said they made all their knives out of high strength twisted welding rods. Basically a modern Damascus concept, I guess.
I have a cane knife — sort of a short machete — I bought in Hilo, HI, about 25 years ago. The guy I bought it from said it was made from a Toyota shock absorber spring.
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