Mdl 686 extractor rod

[Greyman50]

Well, I’m stumped with my new to me used early 686 6” extractor rod. Were they loc tited? or torqued ?. This thing will not unscrew as 99% of the 100’s of other S&W’s I’ve disassembled over the years. No, I do not have the clamp tool and 2 cylinder sized pin wrench but guess I have 2 options, buy tools or take the crane/ cylinder assembly to local smith? Used to fill cylinders with 4 cases, stick 2 wood dowels through 2 cylinders, hold end with vice grip over piece of thick leather and unscrew using a pry bar between wooden dowels. That will be my last resort. Will have to find wooden dowels……..

 

[Jackcpat]

I don’t believe lock-tight was ever used. I bought the vise grip type pliers with the aluminum inserts that fit both normal size rods and the j-frame rods. They’re well worth the money. Best of lock.

 

[Greyman50]

I heated it with a real heat gun but no good. Like I posted guess I’ll have to buy the tools. Years ago saw this 6 1/2” 25-2 at a show that old ejector rod end had been crushed with vice grips. Dirty as it could be so asked what he wanted, ended up getting it for $200 less . Once home soaking in Kroil, cleaning for about a hour with Hoppes and new ejector rod nut this is good to go. Favorite target revolver after my old Mdl. 19 6”.

 

[Protocall_Design]

S&W doesn't put anything on the threads, but a previous owner may have. It takes 350 F to break down Red or Green Loctite. A propane torch on the ejector rod will probably work. You have to heat it until you see a wisp of smoke and/or smell the Loctite. Then you can unscrew it while hot or let it cool down first. You will need new springs after that.

 

[chief38]

Protocall's advise is good. Hopefully, they did not use RED Locktite! That doesn't loosen up 'till nearly 500ºF.

IMHO and over my 50 years of experience with S&W revolvers, I have found that if properly tightened, an ER will not loosen up by itself. There are times they are not correctly tightened from the factory and so they will, but after tightening they should never come loose again by themselves. Now I do not mean that they should be "Gorilla tight" but just a wee bit past snug. They are somewhat thin with very fine threads and you don't want to over-tighten them either.

Use at least 3 empties and a Drill Press's Jacob's Chuck (machine should be unplugged for safety) tightened the Chuck on it past the knurled portion, and it becomes a very easy task! I am totally against any Locktite on ER's - nothing but a headache in the long run! If they do come loose after being properly tightened (I have not seen that yet) then something is wrong with the thread and should be replaced.

 

[chief38]

LOCKTITE USE (as I see it).

Locktite is a fantastic product. I own 4 different types and strengths. That said, I truly believe they have no place being used on guns - except in the most extreme case or in an emergency. For normal maintenance and repair work, if a gun screw or pin constantly becomes loose, there is another issue and said screw or pin should be replaced - not locktited in. It usually comes back to bite you in the butt later on!

I have a 1903 Colt Pocket Pistol series M in .32acp and the extractor pin would come loose from time to time. Instead of taking the easy route of applying Locktite, I made a new pin out of Drill Rod that was .001" thicker in diameter. Problem solved and if the pin needs to be taken out - it's no big deal! IMHO that's how to fix the issue properly. If screws are removed and replaced many times, (or have been cross threaded) they can become worn, ill fitting and should be replaced - not Locktited.