Miceluk Trigger Job for N-frames- new springs?

[Hawg Rider]

I'm thinking about smoothing out the internal parts of a few of my older N-frames (Models 27, 28, and 29). After watching Jerry Miceluk's DVD ("Trigger Job"), it looks pretty straight forward. My question is...after stoning the metal parts, Jerry replaces the mainspring and trigger return (rebound) spring, and files down the cylinder release (bolt) knob, because he's shooting competition. Should I replace the springs on my N-frames even though they are not going to be competition guns, or leave the stock springs? Clark Custom Guns sells the spring kits for $17. Thanks.

 

[Leonard]

I would and do have my gun smith smooth the action by stoning the bearing surfaces and stoning the trigger hammer engagement. The engagement or sear area is sometimes adjusted. For double action work you can loosen the mainspring tension screw but care must be taken to allow for enough power to ignite the primer. Even if you change springs you must test it and determine whether it ignites the primers you load with or factory ammo you may shoot.

I have found adjusting, altering, or installing spring kits very beneficial especially in the lighter Smiths like my Bodyguard but go too light and reliable ignition can be an issue.

The spring kit would be the logical choice some come with different weight trigger return springs and you can always put the original springs back in.

 

[SaberOne]

I sent a gun to H. Bowen and he wasn't crazy about lighter springs due to possible light strikes. In fact, he installed a longer firing pin as a standard upgrade. The action/trigger job he performed is pretty good. Still, I may well have the internals coated with NP3 to smooth things out just a tad more.