Mixing model parts

[AlHillahoif3]

I probably should not have entered into this hobby in the middle of a panic. I am struggling with availability and cost at every turn.

Is it safe and advisable to mix parts from different models? To be specific, I want to use the crane and cylinder from a model 64 on a model 10. Or at least the crane.

 

[chief38]

If they are both from they same era they technically should fit - although will probably need some tweaking and still might not fit perfectly. Aside from the obvious carbon blue and stainless visual differences the parts should work together. It takes 1 minute to try and nothing to loose by doing so. Just remove the screw and give it a whirl.

BTW just in case you don't already know, Stainless can't be blued in the conventional manner and would never match up.

 

[steelslaver]

May or may not work. Some center tubes vary from one to the other even in the exact same model and revision number. Also there may be some small variation on the way the yoke meets the frame and matches up in front. I believe these wore polished as a sets. Plus, the portion of barrel sticking trough the frame may vary slightly as well as the over all length of the cylinder. You may end up with a gap on the large or tight side.

The yokes and cylinders are fitted part. Every model 10-7 yoke or cylinder will not fit every other another model 10-7 perfectly.

The older models used a square groove in end of the pivot shaft of the yoke and a the frame screw that holds it is fitted. Newer models use a V slot and a frame screw with a small ball and spring in its tip.
Help if you stated exactly what you are trying to do? Which model 10 frame and which model 64 parts??? Why?

PS I have a spare cylinder from a 10-7 laying on my bench right now. I installed a nickel recessed model 13 cylinder in a 10-7 frame and used a fixed sight K frame stainless 357 barrel. Cylinder with star is available cheap.

 

[AlHillahoif3]

Oh I'm not doing anything amazing or fancy. I bought another junker frame from JGSales, and it came with a very messed up cylinder and a bent crane. So I bought a super cheapo one off ebay and I'm just trying to make sure there isn't some gremlin that's going to surprise me like has happened in other projects in the past (Never going to forgive Colt for that Small Pin Large Pin nightmare on ARs) as for the gap getting sloppy, I'll deal with that when I chase down a barrel.

 

[Hondo44]

Model #s are not helpful without dash #s.

If the new yoke is the type that takes the new spring loaded screw it's a bigger screw. You'd have to drill and re-tap the threaded hole in the frame. Or cut the groove in yoke shaft to a square bottom. Or make the old screw pointy and adjust length.

Otherwise just misc. fitting is needed.

 

[cgt4570]

Al,
Yes, a lot of parts can be swapped between models and eras.
Here are a couple of my custom WW1 era N frames with modern barrels and cylinders. Several of the internal parts are modern as well.
(and if you need a part, send me a PM. I probably have it)

 

[AlHillahoif3]

Oh goodies, hand fitting. I have come to almost enjoy the scent of layout dye. Its like I am breathing life into a dying art. Jewelers rouge and a wood block are the cart and road to inner peace.

 

[steelslaver]

If you think like that you will be fine. Just go slow and measure stuff. If you stay within frames sizes things did not change much or rapidly. Usually just minor differences from gun to gun.

You could fit a 1920 K frame cylinder to a 2000 K frame, but the key word if fit. The barrel extensions (amount sticking through the frame varies. The 357 magnum (and 22 jet) K frame cylinders are longer than the other calibers, so shorter barrel extensions. A recessed cylinder needs a the frame lug shortened to fit in gun that used a non recessed. They played around moving the gas ring from cylinder to yoke for a few years to. Sometimes your timing is off a bit. etc etc. I can all be dealt with.

The book to get is The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual 5th by Jerry Kuhnhausen, Some small jewelers files and a good caliber. Have fun.

The 3 barrel less frames I have gotten from J&G were all fine except for missing the barrels and having the short ejector rods. One of them was a bit gummy inside but that was all.

Btw I May have a blued yoke in my parts pile.

 

[pantannojack]

Remembering

Come to think of it: I recall in the early 90's when the 696/ 44 spcl was only $389 in PHX, obviously the ones I looked at, the yokes did not fit the frame new in box at the retail dealer. A good reason I did not buy one or several. They say every rifle is individual and I concur that every revolver is one as well.

 

[AlHillahoif3]

Alright then, day one of Project Pinto has begun. For years I have seen 1911s an 1991 colts with a mix of stainless and parkerised parts. Now to do it with a revolver.

So 200$ to Jgsales for a model10-7 project got me this mess. Its got enough lead on it to reroof Notre Dame, the hammer appears to have been bobbed with an chopsaw. The crane (if colt calls it a crane its a crane) is bent. The crane gallery in the frame is rusted and the grips look like this gun was a training prop in a police academy.


She's a horrible mess. I have no guilt in sending her out for parkerizing.