Mod 18 Revolver Not Ejecting Spent Cases

What also does work is 2-stroke oil.
I rubbed each bullet with a cloth with 2-stroke oil, and now the residue is kept so soft it´s no problem seating or ejecting the rounds.
It also helps cleaning the chambers.
 
WOW !!!

I'm against honing cylinders or removing material. As said earlier... if you've ever looked at a Ruger cylinder... you'll know why. I'm sure that any of the methods requiring honing, polishing or reaming will result in a lowered value (if you have any plans to use them as collectable). I think that to a great extent it's due to the bullet lube used. Sticky stuff that builds up. I'd use nothing more abrasive than a bronze brush chucked up in an electric drill. The whole toothpaste or grinding compound scares me to death... This kind of billybob backwoods gunsmithing will kill the value of your treasure... Now if you don't care... proceed... All I can say is that if I were going to buy one, and saw any signs of modification in any way other than what would be done by the factory... I'd put it down and walk.

One reporters opinion ! And no offense meant if your name is BillyBob
 
Anyone have any ideas what is causing the problem and what to do about it?

Check your headspace. I'll bet it's too large. Try a couple endshake bearings to move the cylinder back at bit. That doesn't give the brass room to back out of the cylinder upon firing, expanding, and making extraction difficut.

Yes, this will open up the barrel to cylinder gap. You just have to play around with the number and thickness of the shims to find a happy medium that works.

If it doesn't work you can just rmove the shims, no harm no foul.

Good luck...
 
Fired the following:
50 Rnds CCI Standard Velocity ... ejected with a hard hand slap on the ejector rod ... would not eject by just using your fingers to push down the rod

50 rnds of Federal Gold Match ... similar to the CCI above but would occasionally "Freeze" the Trigger/Hammer/Cylinder turn

50 Rnds of Blazer, which "FREEZE" the action every time after just a few shots

FREEZE means that I could not pull the Trigger, nor pull back the Hammer, and the Cylinder would not turn. I'd have to Open it and bang on the rod until it ejected the rounds then reload and start over.

Frustrating .... I'm either taking it to my Gunsmith for a Professional Solution, or send it back to the Seller .... I'm not going to try any further to resolve the problem myself.

Interesting!
I have the exact same problem,a cylinder that "locks". I found that in my case, if i strip everything, and I mean everything off, and put yoke and drum back in, then it will revolve nicely on one side, fine fefore and after those chambers, and on 1-2 chambers it is "sticky".

I suspect that the yoke/drum is misaligned somehow, causing that resistance. Usually 12 rounds go fine, and it's downhill from there, which is fine for precision, but sucks for competing in "field" or shooting DA at all.

I'll definetely measure headspace, if I can fix it cheaply, I will, if i can't I'm tempted to sell and buy a 617 instead :-(

Ejection is a problem for me too, but CCI works well, and if I run a boresnake though it every 50/100 rounds it's not a problem.
 
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