Mod 29-2 Rebound Internal Rod Question

[dnonac]

Below is a picture of the rebound slide, spring and internal rod from my newly acquired 6.5" 1977 Mod 29-2. I was inspecting the gun because of a really rough hitch in the trigger pull.

The rod inside the spring looks strange and I wanted to get some opinions from the experts.

As you can see, the forward end of the rod is smooth and looks fine, but I was concerned about the other end. It is blackened and rough on the edges. From the blackening, it appears that it might have been cut off and got hot? Anybody ever hear of this.

I haven't seen rebound internal rods from other guns and am wondering if the roughness on the rear could be causing the hitches; i.e., catching the rebound as it compresses. Or...I am wondering if someone has modified the part.
I am not certain what the function of this little rod would be unless it acts as a trigger stop.

Thanks in advance. All input appreciated....

 

[Aussie44]

Someone has made a trigger stop for it and overheated it.Also while doing that has put a lip on the edge.That edge has to be ground off as it will catch on the spring.That is why you feel the hitch that you are experiencing.
They do come from the factory with a trigger stop rod.

Ken

 

[CT Smith Fan]

You are right the rod acts as a trigger stop,I have never seen a rod that looked like that,It looks like some backyard gunsmithing to me.the lip on the ground end of the rod would rub against the coils of the spring and cause a rough pull,either round off the end of the rod or leave it out and get another from smith& wesson if you can.(Aussie44 beat me by a few minutes!)

 

[ken158]

Some came with and some came without. Never seemed to make any sense why and why not.

 

[dnonac]

Wow...thanks

Thanks for the quick input.

If it is a trigger stop, then I imagine that length is critical. I can also see how it could damage other parts with it being too short and cause other problems; i.e., allowing the hand to move higher than necessary.

I'll see if I can track one down on Monday. Do you guys think S&W or should I try Midway or Brownells or someone else?

I swear....I learn something everyday on this great site!

Thanks
Craig

 

[CT Smith Fan]

I would call S&W customer service,you may have to fit the new one also, as these were hand fit for correct travel at the factory.

 

[Pisgah]

>I'll see if I can track one down on Monday.

Or alternatively, throw it away and forget about it. As noted above, some came with, some without, and I have never been able to detect a difference. I regard it as the "appendix" of the N-frame, really non-functional.

Another, less "drastic", option -- use a file to smooth off that end. Any problem caused by the lip will disappear after half a dozen light strokes.

 

[dnonac]

Thanks

Yep....I'll try first rounding off the rough end and see how the trigger travel is.

I'll post later to let you know it the action improves and then see if I need to get another one. I suspect that this one was cut too short.

Thanks again.

 

[aquagear]

I replaced one for a friend if, you are handy with tools and such
measure the diameter of the old one and buy the same size small drill bit you can fit it yourself. He wanted his to be more of a trigger stop for competition, So i started long and trimmed, to fit took about four tries. Hope this helps good luck and good shooting.

 

[dnonac]

Update w pic of 29-2

Great idea Aquagear! I was just looking over my work bench to see what might work. The drill bit idea sounds good.

Update....
I removed the burrs from the original rod and it did remove all the hitches from the action. I am certain that it was cut too short to serve as any kind of trigger stop since the trigger goes all the way to the end of the trigger guard when depressed. I am smoothing out the action a little now; polished the rebound slide contact surfaces, very lightly cleaned up the rough surface on the seer and trigger. Now it's getting to what S&W magnum should feel like.

Here's a pic in the presentation case that I recently reflocked.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Take the pin and throw it away. Put it together and it will be smoother. I agree with the above statement on honestly why is there a stop rod. Yeck, when the gun discharges I can't feel the over travel....

 

[magnum12pm]

Boy! If you went to all the trouble to pull the side plate and make the rod, you would at least polish the end you hacked on. My 327PD has a factory rod in it. I didn't know until taking it apart for a rebound spring change. I don't know if it helps or not can't tell one way or the other.

 

[aquagear]

that is a very nice 29 when I fixed my friends model 28 I purposely went long on the rod took some work but shortening it a little at a time got the trigger to stop right after it broke ,enjoy

 

[dnonac]

Well for now, I've completely removed the pin. The action is extremely smooth.....not too light, but smooth. I'll be going to the range next week and see how it shoots without the rod installed.

I am a little concerned about using it much without the rod. These guns are such fine pieces of machinery that I can't help but think there was a logical " engineering" reason to use the rod in the first place (i.e. trigger stop). I don't think S&W would waste their money machining and installing a part that wasn't needed. As I mentioned before, I suspect it might adversely affect the cylinder hand if used excessively without the rod. That said, as others here have suggested, firing without the rod might not do any damage at all. But hey....I do love those blue model 29's.

Thanks to all...

 

[magnum12pm]

Well for now, I've completely removed the pin. The action is extremely smooth.....not too light, but smooth. I'll be going to the range next week and see how it shoots without the rod installed.

I am a little concerned about using it much without the rod. These guns are such fine pieces of machinery that I can't help but think there was a logical " engineering" reason to use the rod in the first place (i.e. trigger stop). I don't think S&W would waste their money machining and installing a part that wasn't needed. As I mentioned before, I suspect it might adversely affect the cylinder hand if used excessively without the rod. That said, as others here have suggested, firing without the rod might not do any damage at all. But hey....I do love those blue model 29's.

Thanks to all...

You are worrying without warrant. A trigger stop is usually found on competition type weapons as most Smith revolvers and auto pistols do not come from the factory with them. I suspect yours did not or it would have been produced more professionally. I have an N frame 327PD that came with one. The rod was smooth on both ends no signs of being cut & overheated. There is no way shooting with out that rod will damage the gun. The over travel stops even on an auto pistol simply stops wasted travel of the trigger supposedly allowing a little faster shooting speed.

 

[CT Smith Fan]

Thats a great looking 29-2! Nice job on the case also.As some of the others have said I wouldn't go nuts about the trigger stop as the design is not that high tech to begin with.Also remember one of the nice things about a S&W revolver is that you can work the action with the sideplate off and just check things out.I don't think you'll see enough over travel to cause the hand to put extra stress on the cylinder.

 

[Nightowl]

They are of little use unless shooting single action where precision is paramount. Then if you calibrate it for single action, it will not fire double action, at least mine would not. I have not seen them to be useful. They were only put in N frames, not K frames.