Model 1
- Thread starter IWK2HT
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I believe you have called it correctly as being a 3rd Issue Model 1. The third issue guns were made starting in 1868 to 1881 with a total of just over 131,000 produced. The standard barrel length was 3&3/16" and yours looks to be of standard length. The 2&11/16" barrel brings a premium. The stocks are rosewood. The gun came in Blued, Nickel plate, or a combination of the two with a nickeled frame and blued barrel and cylinder.
Keith
They are chambered in the black powder .22 Rimfire short and should not be fired with modern short ammo. If in good condition some shoot them with CB caps or similar low pressure cartridges.
Keith
They are chambered in the black powder .22 Rimfire short and should not be fired with modern short ammo. If in good condition some shoot them with CB caps or similar low pressure cartridges.
The Model 1, 3rd Issue is also found with silver plate or half-plate with blue. That serial number would have shipped around 1873.
I shoot my 2nd and 3rd Issue tip-ups with CB Shorts. Caps and BB have not been available for quite a few years now. My chronograph tests on original BP 22 Short rounds in a Model 1 resulted in an average speed of 600 fps, while CCI 22 CB Shorts ran 450 fps. 22 Shorts run 900 fps in a 4" barrel 22, so never shoot them in these old tip-ups.
I shoot my 2nd and 3rd Issue tip-ups with CB Shorts. Caps and BB have not been available for quite a few years now. My chronograph tests on original BP 22 Short rounds in a Model 1 resulted in an average speed of 600 fps, while CCI 22 CB Shorts ran 450 fps. 22 Shorts run 900 fps in a 4" barrel 22, so never shoot them in these old tip-ups.
I have 3 of those. One in not as nice shape as yours, one in better shape and one with a nickle finish.
When I saw the first one I thought I'd hit the jackpot and was stunned that it was only worth $125-150.
That tells you how much I know about guns. LOL!!
When I saw the first one I thought I'd hit the jackpot and was stunned that it was only worth $125-150.
That tells you how much I know about guns. LOL!!
shouldazagged
Absent Comrade
Great stuff, typical Twain.
OP
Thanks to all, the info you give is both educational and interesting.
mmaher94087
Member
These little guys can be addictive; cheap enough to gather a few, nickel, blue or half-plate revolvers. But the fun begins when one wants a "short barreled" or a 'square top frame', Silver plate or engraved. Boxed or cased adds to the hunt.
Can never pass up a nice one at a bargain price ! The nicer the better, the bigger the bargain, even better yet. 
Model 1 question
Hi: I inherited this cool little revolver a few months ago and did some online research based on the model number, dating it as a Model 1, first issue, 4th type (based on its 4132 serial number), but can't pin down year – either 1859, 1860 I think? Any help would be great. Also: the hammer does not cock, so thinking of fixing, but will this affect value? Should I leave it be? It would be fun to fire.
Hi: I inherited this cool little revolver a few months ago and did some online research based on the model number, dating it as a Model 1, first issue, 4th type (based on its 4132 serial number), but can't pin down year – either 1859, 1860 I think? Any help would be great. Also: the hammer does not cock, so thinking of fixing, but will this affect value? Should I leave it be? It would be fun to fire.
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Could you provide an image of the top-rib roll stamping?
I agree, it should be a Number 1, 1st issue, 4th type. If you look in the SCSW4 you may be shocked by the value's assigned to these. only guessing at the condition level, not knowing the mechanical situation, I'm guessing the condition might rate "good" which has a value of $900, If mechanically operational might stretch up to a Very Good, $1400. Keep in mind these are collector values, and there are limited number of collectors interested in these vintage pieces.
Unless you are very accomplished with gunsmithing of these vintage S&W I would advise on you not attempting to do anything to it, they are very easy to "break worse" and there are literally no parts available for them.
Unless you are very accomplished with gunsmithing of these vintage S&W I would advise on you not attempting to do anything to it, they are very easy to "break worse" and there are literally no parts available for them.
"break worse", old gunsmith expression. Heard it many times back in the day. If you have an old one, leave it alone.
mmaher94087
Member
"Fixing the action would only improve it unless you break it more." Leave it as is. To "fix" the hammer correctly would require welding, re-cutting the trigger /hammer sear and re-hardening the hammer. A simple filing of the sear(s) will disrupt the timing of the cylinder and its lockup. Also, the disassembly and reassembly is difficult because of the frame size and side plate opening. Back in the 1850's, S&W employed mostly women, in a cottage industry, to assembling these revolvers as they generally had smaller fingers than men and could more easily assemble the small parts. Please don't fix it.
Now that is a "clean" one.
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