Model 10- 5 Grip Problem

PSBT4117

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I recently picked up a 4" 10-5. It has a tapered barrel and what appear to be the original grips. It's finish is worn at the muzzle end and on the high parts of the cylinder. It locks up tight and the bore was clean. The only issue I ran into was the grips won't come off.

It also looks like at some point someone had tape around the grips. There is this gunky residue at the top of the back strap. Anyone have any ideas as to how I could safely remove the grips and how I could clean the residue off but not damage the bluing?
 
Back out the grip screw until the head is above the surface of the grip, but still screwed into the right side grip.

Hold the gun in way that will allow the right grip to move and give the screw head a good tap, the screw will push against the right side grip and pop it loose of the pin on the frame that fits into a hole on the underside of the grip. The other way is to remove the grip screw and then insert a long pin punch into the grip screw hole on the left grip and push on the underside of the right grip. If you need to tap the punch with a hammer, use just enough force to budge the grip, and not drive the tip of the punch into the wood.

It's not uncommon for those pins to become a tight fit in the holes, especially if the wood grain has shrunk.

The adhesive residue can be removed using WD-40. Spray it on and let it soak a bit, and then use a cloth with some WD-40 sprayed on it to rub the stuff off.
 
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I tried both methods but neither worked. It feels like it will take a lot of force to get these off. By the looks of things, the reside is around the edges of the grips and is acting like a glue. If I use the WD-40 like a solvent, will it strip the finish of the grips? I'm also guessing it may soften the wood?
 
Jeez!

If those two didn't work, here's what I would do next:

Using a brand new Xacto blade, carefully insert an Xacto knife point first at the butt. Insert it up to the handle. Use it as a purchase point; slowly and gently twist the Xacto blade.

I am not a gunsmith, but that's what I would do. The gun isn't a museum piece anyway, but my method shouldn't result in any visible marks anyway, all said and done.
 
I have used the blade of a small Victorinox knife many times on revolvers with difficult-to-remove grips.

Just be careful and make sure that you place the blade exactly between the grip and frame. Once I get the blade started along one of the surfaces (I use the length of the blade on an area of the backstrap), I press the blade in with my thumb.

I've used this technique on some extremely stubborn grips and have never had a single problem.
 
I have used the blade of a small Victorinox knife many times on revolvers with difficult-to-remove grips.

Just be careful and make sure that you place the blade exactly between the grip and frame. Once I get the blade started along one of the surfaces (I use the length of the blade on an area of the backstrap), I press the blade in with my thumb.

I've used this technique on some extremely stubborn grips and have never had a single problem.

That worked perfectly. The grips popped right off with no damage to them or the frame. They are the original grips to gun. I think the residue theory was right. The outer edges of the grips have it on the inside too. I'll clean them up as well. Thanks everyone for the advice.
 
The WD-40 won't harm the grip finish or soften the wood. Worse case is it will get absorbed by the unsealed wood on the underside of the grip and possibly cause it to darken slightly.

WD-40 is great for removing adhesive reside, price stickers, adhesive labels, etc... from plastic and other surfaces that don't react kindly too conventional solvents.
 
Glad you were able to remove the grips ok. Here are a couple of theoughts:

1. If the grips are super-tight on the alignment pins on the sides of the butt, you could enlarge the holes very slightly. The wood stocks should fit snugly but not so tight that you have to force them on.

2. Before replacing the grips, apply finishing oil to their backsides, Also, make sure the metal surfaces on the grip frame are clean and coat them with a good wax or a metal preservative (I've used old Stoeger's barrel grease). Over the years, the steel under the wood stocks can tend to rust, & I think it's always a good idea to remove the stocks & inspect the metal underneath. I do this as part of maintenance once in a while, but especially when purchasing a "new" old revolver.
 
Glad you managed to get them off with no damage.
 
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