MODEL 10-6 BACK FROM S&W

[billdavidmoore]

That is encouraging.

My Model 10-5 was received at S&W on Monday for a reblue. Yours is beautiful. I hope mine come back looking like yours.

 

[dant]

wow, that came out really nice , and the way the job SHOULD be done, thanks for sharing with us, my faith in the factory is still there

 

[Sundancer2004]

I would be interested to know if while there, they increased the trigger pounds as per Mass Compliancy. The did that to a friend of mine even thought he lives in New York State.

 

[shawn mccarver]

To all those who are constantly asking about S&W's ability to refinish a revolver as well as anyone else, or those who are concerned because they "heard" that S&W just cannot properly polish and refinish a revolver, this thread and those pictures should become a sticky.

Wow.

What a great job they did, and at a reasonable price also.

Congratulations!

 

[shouldazagged]

You don't see many M10 barbecue guns, but that one would sure qualify in a nice carry rig. Beautiful.

 

[supervisor]

If you call S&W service number from their homepage they will email you a shipping label and you can have FedEx pick it up at you home. I just did this last week for a repair issue and got a call from FedEx that it will be delivered tomorrow with the need of a signature. I have done this several times especially for Remington's that were recalled. Piece of cake easy.

 

[njmatt83]

Hello All!

This is my first post on the S&W forum! I recently acquired a Aussie LEO trade-in M13-4. While the mechanics appear fine, the finish is largely worn off such that I am thinking of getting the revolver re-blued as well as having the smiths take a harder look at the functional aspects of the gun. My question to the OP and all present: which type of bluing do you think I should opt for? There are several options listed on the S&W website: High bright polish? Standard polish and blue? Glass bead blue? The intended purpose of this M13 is self/home defense, so reliability/functionality is paramount. Does anyone have any other recommendations for possible upgrades/modifications? I suspect it would be prudent to keep the firearm as close to factory stock as possible, but I am certainly no expert.

Thank you in advance. Glad to be on this forum!

 

[S&W SS Revolvers]

All,

Thanks so much for the kind words. The blue was wonderfully executed. I did, however apply some of the green FLITZ liquid with my bare hands and took off some of rust that was left from the bluing process.

The look is still the same, but the feel is like glass. I customarily use the less-aggressive FLITZ liquid to remove surface contaminates and to polish the inside of the barrel (less friction = more velocity?)

The grips are the semi-rough textured oiled Ahrends. I like them because I break the sharp edges on the top of the speedloader cutout with a file and 1500 grit paper. I then use 3 in 1 oil to "finish" the small area. Easy.

WOW! This has got to be one of the top coolest restoration "make it my gun" threads I have read. Congratulations on "A job well done." You and S&W and the others in this journey. It is sooooooooooooo comforting to hear S&W is still proud and careful.

Mostly , thank you for making a one of a kind Made in USA masterpiece. ENJOY! It is beautiful...

 

[gtoppcop]

njmatt,

Any of them are nice. The matte blue is somewhat like the Highway Patrolman (kind of). What you should specify is 600 grit Brushed Blue. That will be a decent finish that will stand up. Methinks the Highway Patrolmans (Model 28) were done in this fashion.

Truth be told, it's entirely up to you.

As for the Trigger Pull issue asked above, I didn't notice any additional weight. I polish the rebound slide and its corresponding area inside the frame when they come back from being blued anyway.

Any weight added would be negated by the quality of the trigger pull. I think this one is about 9 lbs. Hard to tell, as it's very smooth all the way through the DA stroke. I don't use SA, so it's a moot point as to how much the SA pull is.

Thanks for the kind words. If I can help out, by all means...

 

[shawn mccarver]

Hello All!

This is my first post on the S&W forum! I recently acquired a Aussie LEO trade-in M13-4. While the mechanics appear fine, the finish is largely worn off such that I am thinking of getting the revolver re-blued as well as having the smiths take a harder look at the functional aspects of the gun. My question to the OP and all present: which type of bluing do you think I should opt for? There are several options listed on the S&W website: High bright polish? Standard polish and blue? Glass bead blue? The intended purpose of this M13 is self/home defense, so reliability/functionality is paramount. Does anyone have any other recommendations for possible upgrades/modifications? I suspect it would be prudent to keep the firearm as close to factory stock as possible, but I am certainly no expert.

Thank you in advance. Glad to be on this forum!

I prefer glass bead in a working gun, but that is just me.

 

[Taj]

All,

Thanks so much for the kind words. The blue was wonderfully executed. I did, however apply some of the green FLITZ liquid with my bare hands and took off some of rust that was left from the bluing process.

The look is still the same, but the feel is like glass. I customarily use the less-aggressive FLITZ liquid to remove surface contaminates and to polish the inside of the barrel (less friction = more velocity?)

The grips are the semi-rough textured oiled Ahrends. I like them because I break the sharp edges on the top of the speedloader cutout with a file and 1500 grit paper. I then use 3 in 1 oil to "finish" the small area. Easy.

Hey Gtoppcop, the last thing you want to do is use something like FLITZ on a blued gun. Not everyone realizes the bluing, whether it's hot caustic (like S&W uses today) or cold "rust" bluing, is all based on a corrosive process. It's all rust, and penetrates the surface of the metal. When you "take off" the rust, you are removing or "thinning" the bluing and reducing it's longevity. I used to have folks come into my shop all the time that decided to remove rust from a firearm by using a gel type rust remover. It worked okay, except the gun would be bare steel(white) where ever that stuff touched. Flitz is not acid based like that stuff, but is a polish and removes metal, which means it's removing bluing. Stop obusing that poor model 10 or we'll all get together and come and get it. It'll end up in a foster home.

 

[jtcarm]

What's nice about the factory is that they go over the gun and replace what needs to be replaced, usually at no extra cost.
I sent a 29-2 back some 10 years ago, they recut the forcing cone, reset the barrel, replace the hand, and all fresh springs.....no charge other than the reblue.

Dang, I got a quote on my 24-3 of $90 per hour & long wait to recut/reset my 24-3.

I wonder if they'd do all that if I sent it for a re-blue.

I don't know if it's still the case, but USPS used to allow a non-dealer to ship directly to a manufacturer (and receive back) for repair.

 

[picketpin]

Beautiful Mod 10! Thanks for sharing the journey! Reminds me of it's younger harder living Australian brother:

james

 

[Jaymo]

I'm tempted to send my 10-6 and 586 in.

 

[gtoppcop]

Smith and Wesson has done a very good job with all of the revolvers and 3rd Gen autos I've sent them for service.

One thing I make sure of before sending them in is that they are SCRUPULOUSLY cleaned. I tend to think that guns are not too unlike cars. Meaning, a mechanic (or gunsmith) is more inclined to go the extra mile if he/she has a clean canvas from which to work.

I volunteer at my LGS in cleaning guns taken in for service, or ones that have been taken in on trade. I spend extra attention on S&W revolvers, 3rd Gens, 1911s and Beretta 92-series guns. Why? Because I know them. Many would shudder at the sights I see when folks bring in guns for service, wondering why they cease to function.

Many times it's a lack of cleanliness or lubrication. I help them out by giving them a quick clean and lube. When I come out to meet with them 10-15 minutes later, they're dumbfounded. I gently remind them that a firearm is a mechanical device and is subject to the laws governing mechanical contraptions: Dirt, grit and lack of lubrication will kill ANY mechanical device.

Whenever any of my firearms go out for service, they are so clean that you could eat off of them. It must be a Marine thing. The first thing I do when I get a firearm home, is to tear it down and clean it.

Another quick aside. About 3 weeks ago, I was given the high honor of tearing down and cleaning a 1934-vintage .38-44 Outdoorsman with a 6-1/2 barrel. The gun had never been apart in its 81 years. The years were kind to her, as she had all of her rust bluing and was still very tight. 3-1/2 hours' cleaning netted a beautiful example of S&W glory. I can't imagine the artisans who made her and the tools that they used to build her. Her insides were not molested (or all that dirty...) in any way. She was given a gentle cleaning and sent on her way.

Last week, her new owner and I discussed her and the subsequent range trip. He was indeed grateful for the preservation that I gave her. THAT makes all of my work worthwhile. I feel good when others like the work I've done for them on their firearms.