Model 10, Current Smith&Wesson reblue vs leave alone?

[Lodogg2221]

Hello all, havent posted in quite a while but finally have a worthy question!

Ive got a, roughly, 1974 3" Model 10-5 that I was thinking of getting refinished. The current finish looks bad. Many holster worn spots, and lots of scratches and little flecks of brown throughout.
Mechanically, the gun is in excellent shape.

I called Smith & Wesson this morning, and was unimpressed with the lady I spoke to about refinishing. First she said it was too old to bring in for service (WHAT?), then put me on hold, came back and said that the finish would be completely different than whats on it (I hope so, because whats on it is rough now), and couldnt tell me the difference between the standard polish and blue, and high polish and blue.
Ive gotta say, from this conversation, it seems like they just dont want folks sending in their guns for work. The lady seemed like I was bothering her asking questions.
I know its not the same finish they used to use, but what I cant figure out, and what they are of no help with, is which finish is actually closer to the original?

Anyone have any advice?
Anyone know what models came with the different current finishes so I can see what Id be getting with both?

Im hesitant to let anyone else refinish it, because I cant seem to find anyone local that comes highly recommended. Most are, "oh, so and so does bluing", but no good personal recommendations.

Also, Ill need to figure out what to do about the grips too. They are all there, and the wood isnt cracked, but the finish is shot.
Better to try to refinish those or get different grips?
Anyone on here refinish grips?

 

[Rpg]

Smith can't replicate the original finish. For that, you'll need to go to Fords or one of the few other shops that do bluing.

Many people like the current finishes Smith offers: they will certainly cover the 'bald' spots of finish wear on your M10-5. They also seem more fragile than traditional bluing, being easily damaged by the wrong cleaning products.

Smith's refinishing is a bit less expensive than some others and a bit faster for those who aren't willing to wait for the work.

Keep in mind that you'll spend $300 refinishing a $450 gun resulting in a $400 gun.

Buying a M10-5 with better finish and selling what you now have is almost certainly a better financial plan.

 

[murphydog]

In theory S & W is still working on model marked guns so that was probably an incorrect statement on their part. Once their parts (or trained gunsmith) supply is gone all bets are off.

In my observations, the better the underlying metal finish is the better the factory refinish will look. The blue looks more black than the older process.

Correct replacement stocks are easy to find, but if yours are original to the gun they are numbered to it so I would save them.

Good luck in your decision.

 

[k22fan]

Smith & Wesson's substitute for actual bluing is slowing removed by rubbing with a soft rag and any solvent that contains ammonia. Bluing is not even affected by the long discontinued Hoppies #9 formula that contained benzine. The current S&W "bluing" finish's black color would be obvious on your Model 10-5 from across the room. While I'm happy with my Model 10 dash what ever that is new enough to have the new "blueing," if you are going to put a finish that different on your 10-5 you may as well choose a more durable flash chrome or any other finish that suits your fancy. I do not know if it's affordable but with shinny nickel it would have a finish that S&W used during the time period when your 10-5 was made. I'd ask S&W if they still refinish with nickel.

 

[BSA1]

I brought a police trade-in Model 10-6 4" barrel several years ago. It has heavy holster wear and the right grip was worn down almost to splinters. Although it passed my inspection at the store when I got it to the range the cylinder would lock up after only shooting three rounds. Long story short I sent it back to the factory for repair. I asked about having it reblued but the Rep. told me they would not do it on a gun as old as mine.

The gun came back feeling like new and functions perfectly. I replaced the grips with a set I had in the parts box. I am glad I decided not to have it reblued as it would be so nice looking I would not want to shoot and carry it.

For me Model 10's are a working gun. With so many of them manufactured over the decades I do not foresee having it reblued as adding anything to its value.

I do disagree with Rpg about selling it. The demand for simple fix sight revolvers is increasing as folks in restricted states "discover" how useful they are for self-defense.

 

[NY-1]

I ran into this same conundrum with my Model 10-6. Here's that thread - there's some great insight and excellent photos of S&W's rebluing therein. I ended up keeping my Model 10 as-is and will probably purchase a second one in better shape sometime down the line. The wear on mine gives it a hell of a lot of character and I've come to appreciate that.

Factory Rebluing for a Model 10

 

[OKFC05]

My experience on rebluing functional guns showing honest wear is all bad. Costs too much and never looks like new.
So when I inherited an old Browning that needed a part and had most of the bluing worn off, I replaced the part and cold blued if myself. It works fine, looks old, but is now better protected from rust. Less than $100 and some time. YMMV.

 

[reddog81]

Keep in mind that you'll spend $300 refinishing a $450 gun resulting in a $400 gun.

Buying a M10-5 with better finish and selling what you now have is almost certainly a better financial plan.

This is correct. There's no logical reason I can think to get a plain jane model 10 refinished. Best case scenario you'll spend a bunch of money and end up with a gun that's worth about the same and only looks slightly better at a distance.

 

[andy52]

I wouldn't spend a bunch of money having a model 10 refinished they're just not worth that much anyway. If your good with your hands you might consider bead blasting it and doing a Parkerizing job yourself probably would cost you under a 100 bucks.

 

[stansdds]

I agree, Model 10's are very common and bring little money when it comes time to sell. Reblueing it to original finish standards or even the cheap finish S&W now uses is going to cost almost as much as the revolver itself. My advice would be to keep it well oiled or waxed and enjoy it for what it is.

 

[BSA1]

I ran into this same conundrum with my Model 10-6. Here's that thread - there's some great insight and excellent photos of S&W's rebluing therein. I ended up keeping my Model 10 as-is and will probably purchase a second one in better shape sometime down the line. The wear on mine gives it a hell of a lot of character and I've come to appreciate that.

That is what I did last year. I brought a silver colored K-frame with a 4" heavy barrel. It is a Model 64.

I am a big believer is "Two is One, One is None."

 

[jimmyj]

Refinishing: Fords in Crystal River, Florida

*** Fords is EXPENSIVE !

 

[Lodogg2221]

Thanks for all the advice!
Ill probably just leave it as is. I certainly dont want a somewhat fragile finish on it as it seems the new bluing is from Smith.
It does give it character, and since its an old Australian Police gun, still with their arsenal sticker, I suppose its probably worth more, or at least not more expensive, to keep it that way vs refinishing it.
I like the blued revolvers, but usually buy stainless since I dont have to worry nearly as much about the finish.
I suppose when my Dad passes on his mint Model 15, Ill have an exceptionally nice older Smith in the collection!
Until then, Ill just shoot this one and spend the money on something else!

 

[MP-5]

 

[Golphin]

Refinishing: Fords in Crystal River, Florida

*** Fords is EXPENSIVE !

That is who I would use also but there is a waiting period these days. They do great work and for the product you get the price is not that bad I don't think. Of course they are local to me so it makes it a lot easier to get the gun to them.