Model 10 Identity?

[steviej1]

Looking to trade for a model 10 .38. Owner gave me this as serial number (F848977). Any help?

 

[P&R Fan]

Welcome to the Forum.
There are no revolvers of that time period with an "F" before the serial number.
It could be a C, which would date it to about 1966.
Or it could be a D, which would date it to 1976.

It looks like it's in pretty rough shape. Might be a good shooter, but not worth a lot of money.
Jim

 

[steviej1]

Thanks. I thought the F was probably a typo from the current owner, but wanted to diubke check. 'Preciate it.

 

[Art Doc]

If you come back to see this, what the seller is looking at is an assembly number. The serial is on the butt under those ugly grips.

 

[JP@AK]

I can just about guarantee this will have a C serial number, although it could possibly have a very high S number (above S990xxx). The hammer is short throw, but the cylinder release says relatively early postwar (late 1940s).
SP is correct. The owner is looking at the assembly number. In the case of this particular revolver, the serial number should appear on the butt, the rear face of the cylinder and on the barrel flat.
And it is definitely NOT a Model 10.
Jack

 

[opoefc]

As Jack says, It's not a Model 10, however collector's call it a Pre-Model 10, as 10 yrs. after this gun was made, S&W adopted the Model number setup and call the gun a Model 10. Correct name for this gun is a Model 1905, 4th change. I would say the gun is probably worth about $300 range, if it's in good mechanical condition. If what you are trading for this gun is something in the $300 range, then it might work for both of you. Ed.

 

[DWalt]

So what is the real SN? If it's a late C or D series, it should have a Model 10 stamp in the yoke. It's properly termed simply a "Military and Police" (M&P) model, or perhaps a Model 10 M&P.