Model 10 lead deposit in chambers

[chief38]

I believe that the reason the Lewis Lead remover couldn't remove the deposit is that it slides through the chamber too easily without any resistance. As the other posters stated, it probably requires more abrasion. However, I did scrub it vigorously with a bronze bore brush but it didn't work. It worked in the forcing cone but not the chambers. As robert1804 and kbm6893 stated, a larger size bore brush in a drill press might be a good alternative but quite frankly, I'm a little apprehensive about going that aggressive. Some have also suggested that it's not lead but possibly chamber shoulders but to me it looks like deposits rather than a machined shoulder. Maybe I need to look again. Thanks for all the replies.
S.K.

If there is no resistance then either you are using the incorrect caliber kit or the Brass screen is worn out. It is made to have resistance and always does. In fact sometimes it's a bit of a P.I.T.A. to get it through when the brass screen is new.

 

[kbm6893]

If there is no resistance then either you are using the incorrect caliber kit or the Brass screen is worn out. It is made to have resistance and always does. In fact sometimes it's a bit of a P.I.T.A. to get it through when the brass screen is new.

Agreed. You should really have to pull hard to get it started. And if the solvent dipped brush in the drill doesn't work than its not a deposit. I just used that technique on a friends 60 year old j frame that was filthy and it got the chambers looking like mirrors. Use a 40 cal brush and start the spinning before you put it in the holes.

 

[cmj8591]

Don't overthink this. If the ammo is going in smooth and coming out ok then you should be set.

When I get a revolver with stubborn deposits I fall back on one of two methods: The tried and true Lewis or a bronze brush with piece of lead wipe away cloth wrapped around it. Be careful with the wipe away cloths. They do a great job but they will remove the blue finish. I've used the drill method but I tend to go with plain old elbow grease.

 

[sdk]

The verdict is in. Used a 38 caliber bore brush in a drill. The deposit remained. Used a .375 diameter rifle bore brush in a drill. The deposit remained. Used a 45 caliber bore brush. The deposit remained. As some of the posters suggested, it's not a deposit. However, after each bore brush I ran a wet patch through each hole and after using the .375 rifle brush the patch came out very dirty so their must have been something left behind in the chambers. After using the 45 caliber brush the patch came out clean. I now believe the chambers should no longer be a concern. Thanks again for the replies.
S.K.

 

[CajunBass]

I think you are working WAY too hard at this.

 

[sdk]

I think you are working WAY too hard at this.

You're right. I work too hard at a lot of things. Thanks for your opinion.

 

[kbm6893]

You're right. I work too hard at a lot of things. Thanks for your opinion.

I'm with you. I'm OCD about keeping my guns clean. Even other people's guns if they're being neglected. Just did a detail clean on a friends 60 year old Chief Special. That thing was neglected. Grips had never been taken off as far as he knew, and I just couldn't let the old girl get any worse. Cylinder was filthy and spun with resistance. Got rid of some rust and got the chambers and bore spotless for him.

I would have done the same thing you have. Now you know how to clean them right. I still use the drill bit technique every time I clean the gun. Doesn't hurt and doesn't let lead build up. Enjoy your model 10.

 

[sdk]

Thanks for the comments. I'm sure that I'm not alone when it comes to what some may consider overdoing the things I enjoy.
S.K.