Gatofeo
Member
Bought an S&W Model 10-5 with 4" tapered barrel at Cabela's in Salt Lake City two weeks ago. Nickel plated beauty in .38 Special. Like new.
Serial number C711XXX on butt. When was this made?
I paid $299. Looked a little worn but after I cleaned it up I realized that much of its "wear" was just grime. Carefully scrubbed (with a nylon brush) old carbon off the cylinder and around the frame and barrel and it shone like a new dime!
Not one pit or blemish in the barrel or chambers. The nickel plating is almost flawless except for some very tiny, almost imperceptibly fine scratches.
Locks up tighter than a wine cork. Single action breaks at about 3-1/2 pounds. Double action is smooth and easy, but I don't have a means to measure it's weight of pull.
Wooden grips with silvery S&W medallion are not numbered. They don't have the diamond, but have a small checkered area in the grip that kinda follows its contours.
Are these the right grips for this revolver, or have they been replaced with a newer version?
Fired it for the first time last week: 25 yards off a benchrest, with Sight Black to cut the glare on the bright sights:
My reloads with a 160 gr. lead SWC over 3.2 grs. Bullseye - 4 to 5 inch groups.
Winchester 130 gr. FMJ of recent manufacture: 4 to 6 inch groups.
Sellier & Bellot 148 gr. wadcutter: 4 to 5 inch groups.
I began to believe I had a lemon, especially after the wadcutter loads wouldn't shoot worth a hoot.
Then I fired some older, el-cheapo CCI Blazer, aluminum-cased ammo with 158 gr. lead roundnose.
Six rounds into 1-1/2 to 2 inches, each time!
I'm sure the ol' girl can shoot tighter, but my 53-year-old eyes can't see better.
I'm wondering if the bullet needs to be seated a little further out, for better accuracy.
Each gun is an individual, so this revolver may require bullets closer to the forcing cone.
Sorry I have no photo. It's late and I'm tired.
Love this old gun. A real beauty and I believe I got a good price on it for $318 (after taxes added).
Did I?
My guess is that it dates to the early 1960s. What say you?
Serial number C711XXX on butt. When was this made?
I paid $299. Looked a little worn but after I cleaned it up I realized that much of its "wear" was just grime. Carefully scrubbed (with a nylon brush) old carbon off the cylinder and around the frame and barrel and it shone like a new dime!
Not one pit or blemish in the barrel or chambers. The nickel plating is almost flawless except for some very tiny, almost imperceptibly fine scratches.
Locks up tighter than a wine cork. Single action breaks at about 3-1/2 pounds. Double action is smooth and easy, but I don't have a means to measure it's weight of pull.
Wooden grips with silvery S&W medallion are not numbered. They don't have the diamond, but have a small checkered area in the grip that kinda follows its contours.
Are these the right grips for this revolver, or have they been replaced with a newer version?
Fired it for the first time last week: 25 yards off a benchrest, with Sight Black to cut the glare on the bright sights:
My reloads with a 160 gr. lead SWC over 3.2 grs. Bullseye - 4 to 5 inch groups.
Winchester 130 gr. FMJ of recent manufacture: 4 to 6 inch groups.
Sellier & Bellot 148 gr. wadcutter: 4 to 5 inch groups.
I began to believe I had a lemon, especially after the wadcutter loads wouldn't shoot worth a hoot.
Then I fired some older, el-cheapo CCI Blazer, aluminum-cased ammo with 158 gr. lead roundnose.
Six rounds into 1-1/2 to 2 inches, each time!
I'm sure the ol' girl can shoot tighter, but my 53-year-old eyes can't see better.
I'm wondering if the bullet needs to be seated a little further out, for better accuracy.
Each gun is an individual, so this revolver may require bullets closer to the forcing cone.
Sorry I have no photo. It's late and I'm tired.
Love this old gun. A real beauty and I believe I got a good price on it for $318 (after taxes added).
Did I?
My guess is that it dates to the early 1960s. What say you?
