Model 14-3 no-drill scope options?

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I have a beautiful model 14-3 Target Masterpiece. I was decent with a pistol when I could see the sights and the target at the same time. At 55, it's time for a scope. My revolver is not factory drilled. What's the best option? Thanks!
 
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I have a beautiful model 14-3 Target Masterpiece. I was decent with a pistol when I could see the sights and the target at the same time. At 55, it's time for a scope. My revolver is not factory drilled. What's the best option? Thanks!


The best option is to have the gun D&T. The no drill mounts use a clamp that clamps around the lunette, the part of the frame the barrel is screwed into. These invariably end up doing serious damage to the guns finish in this area, even on 22s.
 
I agree with ALK8944. In addition to the scratching of the frame, it uses only the factory sight screw hole to secure the mount, and many have had the screw shear off and had to be drilled and re-tapped. Since the drill and tap is hidden under the rear sight when the mount would be removed it is not unsightly.

Just be sure the gunsmith uses the standard S&W pattern for the holes.
 
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See an eye Dr. about prescription shooting glasses. This will allow you to focus on the sights and the target with a fixed bifocal line where you need it to be, not in the normal place. Try using safety glasses with an area magnifier to get the concept.
 
The no drill mounts use a clamp that clamps around the lunette, the part of the frame the barrel is screwed into. These invariably end up doing serious damage to the guns finish in this area, even on 22s.
That was the event in an otherwise very nice 8 3/8" nickel Mod. 57 I bought...At least I was able to use the blemishes as a strong bargaining point on price negotiation...:rolleyes:...Ben
 
I agree with post #2 and #3 about drilling the top strap for scope mount. I have a Model 27 and a Model 17 that have early style Leopold Scope Mounts and Leopold 4X EER Scopes. Installed in 1980 and top strap drilled and tapped for mount. Very solid all these years. Just be sure and use Blue Locktite on screws and don’t use Red Locktite. Most of the later scope mounts I’ve seen look kinda gawdy and looks like they’d scratch the top strap.
 
I drilled and tapped our 17-4 for a Leupold scope mount/rings and a red dot mounting plate.
Just two holes.
I made the red dot's mounting plate to match the holes in the Leupold's mount and to fit our RMR or DPP.

The little plate also fits our 460s. Just for moderate/light load fun on the 3.5". Have been advised that the Snubs break everything but irons. :D

I'm finishing up a longer red dot mount that uses all three OEM mounting holes for the long barreled 460.
That mount will be as low a profile as possible.

If you really like the 14-3TM, make sure both scope mounts and red dot plates will fit the holes drilled/tapped.
 

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I had a B Square mount on a 29-2 for 35 years and when I removed it 3 years ago the gun and bluing was not marked. I liked so much I bought a spare but never used it. <do not use red Loctite.>Ebay has one. It fits with no gunsmithing and easy to install.
 

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I have a beautiful model 14-3 Target Masterpiece. I was decent with a pistol when I could see the sights and the target at the same time. At 55, it's time for a scope. My revolver is not factory drilled. What's the best option? Thanks!

You can't see both the target and the sights clearly. You are not supposed to. Please read Encyclopedia of Bullseye Pistol
and perhaps rethink your shooting technique.

Stu
 
You can't see both the target and the sights clearly. You are not supposed to. Please read Encyclopedia of Bullseye Pistol
and perhaps rethink your shooting technique.

Stu
A red ramp and white outline bother me but I'm 78 and with a black front and rear the target is clear to me 25 and 50 yards. I've read about that for years. I can still see the 38 size holes at 25 yards without glasses.:)<I do wear glasses when I shoot.>
 
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