Ok hypothetical question. Let's say you have a 4" Model 15 from 1975 and a 4" Model 67 from that same year. Would the trigger pull be the same on each? Other than the finish would there be there any differences between the two?
Model 15 vs. Model 67
- Thread starter Bhfromme
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
They are identical revolvers save for the blued or nickeled carbon steel of the 15 versus the 67's stainless steel.
From the factory, the trigger pulls would be virtually identical save perhaps for minute variations due to manufacturing tolerances and fit.
But who knows what lives each revolver has had in the the last almost fifty years? From use or tuning (or lack thereof), they might be quite different from each other now...or not.
Bottom line, though, is that mechanically speaking the 15 and the 67 from the same build year would -- when new -- be virtually identical in handling and feel.
From the factory, the trigger pulls would be virtually identical save perhaps for minute variations due to manufacturing tolerances and fit.
But who knows what lives each revolver has had in the the last almost fifty years? From use or tuning (or lack thereof), they might be quite different from each other now...or not.
Bottom line, though, is that mechanically speaking the 15 and the 67 from the same build year would -- when new -- be virtually identical in handling and feel.
Hello Bhfromme.
You have identical revolvers made by the same company so they should feel the same. However if you bought either one of them used, the previous owners could have done trigger jobs, changed springs and polished parts, on either one of them.
Unless it's a "safe" gun I want to resell, I generally do trigger jobs on most of mine. And have bought used ones that had work done on them.
If you have never opened them up, take the side plates off and at least oil them.
Good luck
Steve
You have identical revolvers made by the same company so they should feel the same. However if you bought either one of them used, the previous owners could have done trigger jobs, changed springs and polished parts, on either one of them.
Unless it's a "safe" gun I want to resell, I generally do trigger jobs on most of mine. And have bought used ones that had work done on them.
If you have never opened them up, take the side plates off and at least oil them.
Good luck
Steve
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
You don't need to take the side plate off to lube them, it says so in the care and maintenance instructions included with every gun. However, I have found them to be pretty dry inside on the ones I have taken the side plate off of, so I don't disagree with you there.
If you do want to take the side plate off, there is a proper way to do it, and prying isn't it. Remove the stocks first; then remove the front side plate screw, which retains the yoke, and remove the yoke and cylinder. Then remove the other two screws and keep them apart from the yoke retention screw, since it is fitted to the yoke, although otherwise is identical to the left lower screw. While holding the frame horizontally through the cylinder opening and the side plate up, use a plastic mallet or even a plastic or rubber screwdriver handle, and rap the butt frame smartly downward once or twice. The side plate will pop up and can be removed. Replacement is done by inserting the small tab at the top first, and pressing the plate in position. Insert the bottom left screw first, screw it in slowly but don't force it. The start the screw that is hidden by the stock, and alternate tightening the two screws until the side plate is seated. Then replace the yoke and cylinder and its retention screw, and tighten all three hand tight only. Use care and brace the screwdriver tip against a thumb or finger to keep it from slipping and marring the finish.
I've found this to be an excellent guide for inspecting and maintaining a S&W revolver:
https://friedmanhandguntraining.com/Gun_Maintenance/S&W_revolver_inspection.pdf
You people here are so kind to us newbies. Thanks very much for that information Mr. Hair Trigger.
I'm looking to buy a 67 or a 15. Leaning toward the 67 because of the condensation issues here in the winter. I like the blued finish but I'm all about low maintenance so I'll probably go with stainless. I have no need or desire to shoot .357 magnum loads so it's looking like the smaller 67 will be my next revolver. Does the shorter cylinder in the 67 make it feel much smaller than the Model 66?
I'm looking to buy a 67 or a 15. Leaning toward the 67 because of the condensation issues here in the winter. I like the blued finish but I'm all about low maintenance so I'll probably go with stainless. I have no need or desire to shoot .357 magnum loads so it's looking like the smaller 67 will be my next revolver. Does the shorter cylinder in the 67 make it feel much smaller than the Model 66?
Inusuit
Member
I have neither a 67 nor a 66. I can't perceive a difference in the "feel" between my Model 15 and my Model 19. So maybe a fair comparison.
Charlie Foxtrott
Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2009
- Messages
- 1,259
- Reaction score
- 2,105
Yes they do feel somewhat smaller and lighter than a model 66 or 19.
Great carry guns IMO. My current carry gun is a model 67 in an El Paso Saddlery Sky six holster.
Great carry guns IMO. My current carry gun is a model 67 in an El Paso Saddlery Sky six holster.
GypsmJim
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
- Messages
- 3,998
- Reaction score
- 6,930
I don't have a 15, so I can't offer a comparison. But I CAN say that my 67 has the finest balance of any of my Smiths. Also, it is the tightest gun I own. When I got it, there were only 12 rounds down the tube. It now probably has 500.
Although I didn't check specs, my guess would be that the 67 would be heavier because its SS.
Although I didn't check specs, my guess would be that the 67 would be heavier because its SS.
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2006
- Messages
- 3,494
- Reaction score
- 6,048
At one point there was one of each in our house. The 15 had a wide smooth trigger and the 67 a narrower grooved one. I could tell the difference in the perceived pressure needed to fire each. The balance was the same. The 67 was bone stock and the 15 I can't vouch for.
It happens that I have a model 66 and a model 67 that both left the factory in 1974. The biggest difference between them is the model 66 is 4.6 ounces heavier that the model 67. The model 66 has a slightly larger outside diameter barrel, a wider top rib, and an ejector rod shroud. The 4 ounces do make a difference in the feel for me. The 67 just seems to fit & balance better but it’s not a big difference. Sorry but I don’t have a M15 or M19 to compare triggers with but I don’t think there would be any significant differences in them.
Another reason I prefer the model 67 are the magna stocks that fit my hand better than the target stocks on the model 66 but it’s easier to shoot 357 loads with the targets.
Another reason I prefer the model 67 are the magna stocks that fit my hand better than the target stocks on the model 66 but it’s easier to shoot 357 loads with the targets.
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
It's only a hair over 0.10" shorter than the cylinder on a M66, so it's unlikely you'd notice the difference. There is a very small difference in the frame size, although they are both K frames. The M65 and M66 (and M19) are slightly thicker in the yoke area of the frame than non-magnum K frames; even at that there is hardly any noticeable difference.
VaTom
Member
My three K frames. 1974 M15, 1979 M10 and 1976 M64. All have great triggers but the M15 seems a bit lighter on the single action. I bought it used at a local auction so don't know if previous owner had a trigger job on it. It has a serrated trigger and a semi-target hammer. Great revolver.
Attachments
Bumpus13
Member
Now you’re catching on.
This is the way.
To me, every revolver has a different feel. One that has been shot more, or had the action tuned, feels different than a less used one. Wear, manufacturing tolerances, spring temper, skill of the fitter, etc, makes a difference. In other words, it is difficult to make clear cut comparisons. Yes, two different guns may have 3 pound single action trigger pulls, but the feel will be slightly different. All have their own personalities!
Green Frog
Member
What Nightowl said! Each revolver, even within a single model and variant will be slightly different due to tiny differences in manufacturing as well as each gun’s history of usage. I had both a Model 67 and a Model 15 within a couple of years of each other so I never did a side by side comparison, but both had very smooth trigger pulls (especially in single action) and functioned extremely well. I would feel well equipped with either of them.
It has been stated that stainless internal parts, while rust resistant, are less wear resistant, so a Model 67 might wear out internally sooner than its carbon steel cousin, but this would take a high volume of shooting, and many of them came with flash chromed or even case colored carbon steel hammers and triggers to address this.
Of course if you plan to carry it a lot (like in a holster) a blued gun will show wear more permanently while stainless can be polished up a little to look like new... this was a particular concern among LEOs when revolvers were commonly carried.
Bottom line; whichever suits your planned use and feels best to you, go for it. It would be hard to go wrong with either of these fine revolvers.
Froggie
It has been stated that stainless internal parts, while rust resistant, are less wear resistant, so a Model 67 might wear out internally sooner than its carbon steel cousin, but this would take a high volume of shooting, and many of them came with flash chromed or even case colored carbon steel hammers and triggers to address this.
Of course if you plan to carry it a lot (like in a holster) a blued gun will show wear more permanently while stainless can be polished up a little to look like new... this was a particular concern among LEOs when revolvers were commonly carried.
Bottom line; whichever suits your planned use and feels best to you, go for it. It would be hard to go wrong with either of these fine revolvers.
Froggie
kbm6893
Member
Last year, I found a LNIB 15-2 from 1967. Gun was spotless. Hardly even a turn line on cylinder. Even the box looked perfect. I noticed the action was sticky. I tried cocking the hammer and blasting brake cleaner into the action followed by compressed air. No improvement. I finally carefully took the side plate off. I do that for every used revolver I buy, but was hesitant on this one since it looked so perfect.
There’s a thread I started if you care to look, but it was a mess in there. Looked like ear wax smeared over the innards. hrfunk on YouTube has a great video of a seemingly excellent condition pinned and recessed Model 66 that was so gummed up, probably by a well meaning owner, that the action would hardly move. He could barely get the cylinder to open. Same issue as mine. Decades of someone squirting something, probably WD40 and then too much lube. I completely disassembled my 15 and gave it a thorough cleaning. It’s perfect now.
I pop the side plate on every used revolver I buy. Usually no surprises in there, but there have been a couple. One time, there was no hammer block in the gun. Doing it carefully, a light brushing with Hoppes, followed by brake cleaner and compressed air, and a proper light lube, is the way to go. No need to fully disassemble unless it’s a real mess.
Last edited:
