Model 17 extraction fix?

[Aviator]

Due to a need to brush out the chambers of my 17 no dash after a few cylinders of most copper washed ammo I took the advice of my local smith and bought a flex hone 800 grit from Brush Research.
I had spent days working on the chambers with bronze wool and brushes prior to this.

After the gun smith ran the hone through the chambers a couple of times extraction improved a great deal.
The chambers looked much more smooth as well.

The gun seems to shoot fine and is much more fun at the range.
Anyone see a down side to this?

Thanks

Frank

 

[NYlakesider]

IT works its good.


I did something similar to one of my Smiths. I used a bronze brush in a electric screwdriver using a slow but steady speed .

The brush had a little valve grinding compound (Automotive) on it and it did a nice job. I pulled the cylinder and wrapped it with leather and put in snugly in my vice and did the "brushing; When done a super good clean up including blowing compressed air through and around the cylinder.

 

[tomcatt51]

Due to a need to brush out the chambers of my 17 no dash after a few cylinders of most copper washed ammo I took the advice of my local smith and bought a flex hone 800 grit from Brush Research.
Anyone see a down side to this?

Yes. The chambers need to be reamed with a finish reamer. They're undersized. This is a common problem and there are a bunch of mickey mouse makeshift fixes but the bottom line is the chambers are undersize and need to be reamed. I've reamed (saami spec finish reamer) the chambers in quite a few 17's and 617's and this is the fix.

 

[Aviator]

I talked to my smith about using a reamer and actually requested same. Like other smiths I talked to he was afraid he would damage the chambers.
They say without a constant flow of cutting fluid a chip could roll under the reamer and cause damage.
I think a reamer would have done a better job. That is what is recommended in the s/w shop manual by Kuhnhausen,along with a burnishing tool.
I lack the experience and confidence to do it myself. New cylinders are not available.
Congrats to you having the ability to do it yourself

 

[tomcatt51]

I talked to my smith about using a reamer and actually requested same. Like other smiths I talked to he was afraid he would damage the chambers.
They say without a constant flow of cutting fluid a chip could roll under the reamer and cause damage.

Sorry, but this doesn't say much about your "gunsmith". The chambers are reamed by hand. You hold the reamer in a tap handle and a "constant flow of cutting fluid" is nonsense. You ream the chambers just as you would tap a hole, occaisionally removing the reamer and clearing chips and "painting" on some more cutting oil. On 17/18/617 chambers you usually clear chips twice per chamber.

I've responded to this question a number of times on this forum. I've supplied the Brownell's part number for the reamer. Chamber reaming by hand is not a difficult process. If your mechanical skills are such that you can tap a drilled hole you should have no problem reaming your 17, 18, or 617 chambers. A number of members have with no problems. I have probably rcd more PM's about this than anything else. You do need to clear chips and you do need to not go too deep and cut the rim recess deeper. If in doubt stop, not reaming full depth (but close) will be fine.

 

[Aviator]

I will pursue this further and attempt to purchase the reamer.
My 17-3 comes out of dros tomorrow and I expect similar issues. Also would like to touch up my 17 even though it is much improved.

The concern I have doing it myself is the rim recess you mentioned.
Apparently you do not run the reamer all the way through the cylinder?

Thanks

Frank

 

[Aviator]

Reamer part number

Would the part number be 513051220WB?



Thanks

 

[tomcatt51]

Would the part number be 513051220WB?

Yes, that's the one I have. It does have cutting surfaces to cut the rim recess. You do not (actually can not) run it all the way thru the chamber.

Leave the extractor in place when you ream. Drop fired cases in a couple chambers to help locate it. With the extractor in place you'll find it easy to see the rim recess cutter approach the extractors' rim surface. It's not "down in the hole" like the cylinder recess. That will probably make more sense when you start reaming. Stop just before or as it touches.

All the 17/18/617 chambers I've reamed have generated considerable chips. Usually requiring pulling and cleaning the reamer twice per chamber.

DO NOT EVER turn the reamer "backwards" as you remove it. Keep turning it the same direction, pulling it out instead of pushing it in.

Use Brownell's thick nasty cutting oil. Universal Do-Drill, part #083-007-016WB. A pint should last just short of forever.

Go slow and be carefull. It's not a difficult process. Have fun, you'll like the results.

If in doubt, stop and ask.

 

[CScott]

Do you polish the chambers afterwards?
Scott

 

[tomcatt51]

Do you polish the chambers afterwards?
Scott

No. The reamer has left a really nice surface finish without doing anything more.