Model 19-3 trigger pull

[inotak]

Hi,

I just purchased a used (but in very good shape) Model 19-3. I put it through its paces this morning using 158 grain .357s and so far I have only one issue. The trigger pull is light as a feather - too light. Can the trigger pull be adjusted?

Also, is there an issue with 38 special plus P rounds or is it just the hotter 357 loads that can damage the revolver?

Thanks in advance - lastly are there pdf files on cleaning/maintaining these weapons?

 

[snw19_357]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on picking up one of the finest revolvers ever made.

Are you talking about double action trigger pull or single action? The first thing I would check is the strain screw on the front of the grip. Is it tightened all of the way down? Some have 'loosened' the screw to 'lighten' the trigger pull. If that isn't it, the trigger pull can be adjusted, it just isn't as easy as tightening a screw

You can download a current (generic) revolver manual from S&W's website

 

[large_orange_drink]

Light trigger pull in single or double action? Do the rounds all go off when you pull the trigger. Someone may have switched out the springs for lighter ones but as long as you don't have light primer strikes, I would just learn to enjoy the pleasure of a light trigger pull.

 

[38-44HD45]

If it's the SA pull that is lighter than that to which you are accustomed, but it doesn't follow, just enjoy it; it is as it should be. If it's the DA pull, and you aren't getting light strikes, enjoy that, too.

As for ammo, first, let me say, "AAAAAARGH!" Sorry, I had to get it out of my system. Your gun is safe with any SAAMI spec .357 ammo. The cracked forcing cone bugaboo is horribly overblown, and is only a (remote) concern with the hottest 125gr. loads. I've been shooting for over 40 years, have owned, shot, worked on and seen many, many K-frame magnums, and have seen one, count 'em, ONE cracked forcing cone. It was on a nickle 19-2 that had obviously shot many thousands of rounds of hot magnum ammo. All .38 Special loads are safe. Obviously, the hotter the ammo you shoot, the faster the wear. Otherwise, shoot it and enjoy it!

 

[inotak]

Thanks for the quick replies - I only tried single action this morning. With the hammer back, the pull was dangerously light. At least for me.
I ran 12 rounds through it at 50 feet - 11 out of 12 rounds were in a 4 inch circle but there was 1 round that was about 3-4 inches higher than the rest because of the trigger pull. I also have some adjusting to do because I normally shoot my Glock 21 or my HK USP so my problem might be gorilla-ing the trigger.
I'll try the strain screw and see what that changes - hopefully that will be enough. I'll grab a manual and go from there.

 

[HAWKEYE10]

You are shooting two different types of guns. S&W's do have a light trigger pull in SA. This is normal! Once you get used to it you will love it. People even pay gunsmiths to make it better. Don

 

[model70hunter]

You have referred to very light and dangerously light. I have seen some that had action work by untrained folks. With the gun double checked empty and in SA can you wiggle the hammer to cause it to fall with out pulling the trigger? Can you push the trigger sideways to make it fire? I was almost shot by a friend who had a dangerously light trigger on a Ruger. It had to be fixed. I turned as he was turning towards me, I had powder burns on my shirt, too close. If you feel it is dangerous take it to a gunsmith. Get the trigger pull checked. If you can make the hammer drop by pushing on it or pushing sideways pn the trigger it needs fixed before it is ever loaded. I have 2 19-3's, both have had action jobs, they work beautiful but not dangerous. For safetys sake and for your peace of mind get it checked.

 

[inotak]

Model 19-3 Trigger Pull

Thanks again for all the input. I took the gun in to a gunsmith friend of mine - the tension screw is all the way in so that avenue is out. He ordered a spring kit and he will replace the two springs. He thinks I'm nuts for wanting to tighten it up a bit, but he'll do it for me. Parts plus $10, so that's not too bad.

I tested the hammer and trigger as mentioned, but I couldn't get the hammer to drop so that's something positive at least.

I'm going back to the range Friday morning for some more shooting fun (one of the bennies of being retired). I'll try shooting it double-action and see how that works out.

 

[murphydog]

You didn't mention if your 19-3 has the narrow (service) or wide (target) trigger, or what other handguns you are used to firing. With the wide trigger, putting the standard (3-4 pounds or so) pull from single action feels really light, more so if you are used to another gun with a heavier pull (can anyone say Sigma? ). Definitely get it adjusted to where you feel comfortable. Enjoy!

 

[sunday bill]

Uhhhhhhhhh.....inotak, you might consider asking your smithy to save the current springs for you. Save you the expense of buying a set just like'm in case you ever get into accuracy, some variation of dot shooting, etc..

 

[inotak]

Model 19-3 Trigger Pull

Well, I took it back to the range today and put 50 rounds of Wolf .357 and 50 rounds of Magtech 38 Special through it. All but 12 rounds (6 each type) was double action. It's a nice shooter in double action - no complaints whatsoever. Even my two compadres enjoyed shooting it in DA. So I'm thinking it's a keeper if I can get the SA trigger pull tweaked a bit.

I normally shoot a Glock 21 (45ACP) and a HK USP (40). Both guns have heavy triggers so that may effect my tendency to want to overpower this trigger. There's much more travel in their triggers than in the Smith.

With regard to trigger size it's about 5/16 to 3/8 inch wide - pretty hefty.

I will get my friend to measure trigger pull and I will keep all the parts when he's done.

 

[gerald mcdonald]

Treat it like a Glock and the light pull shouldnt be an issue. Just dont touch the trigger until your ready to shoot.

 

[robctwo]

I was shooting my 19-3 this afternoon. Mine has a very nice trigger, just like the one you got rid of. Keep the old springs, and stay friends with the guy who will trade them out for $10.

I had a bunch of .38 special light loads, and some varying levels of .357. I much prefer the light loads to shoot 2-300. The gun handles the full magnums fine. My 27-2 N frame is much more comfortable to shoot full magnums.

The 19-3 is spectacularly accurate for me in double action. That means a 2" 5 shot group at 15 yards, and hitting clay birds on the ground regularly at 30-35 yards. I just got into revolver shooting. Have some very nice 1911s, so light single action triggers are the norm.

If anybody at the range turns toward me with a loaded gun, with or without their finger on the trigger I'm going to turn them in to the range master and ask for their removal from the club. There is no excuse for getting shot at. period.

 

[scooter123]

Just a bit of info in regards to trigger pull, especially on the models that were one commonly Police Duty pistols. Police Dept. Aromorers have been tuning on the S&W revolvers action since it's introduction and because these guns were mainly used in Double Action, that is the area that they worked to optimize. A consequence of any work to lighten the DA pull will also reduce the SA trigger pull. So, it's not uncommon to find a lot of these guns with light SA triggers.

One typical action taken was to shorten the rebound spring by 2 coils. This takes the "weight" of the rebound spring down to about 14 lbs. The result of doing this is a DA trigger pull in the range of 8 to 8 1/2 lbs. and a SA trigger pull in the range of 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. For many shooters that can seem a bit light.

The next thing that was typicaly done was to file the strain screw down by a small ammount, probably 0.010 to 0.020 inch. Doing this will allow the strain screw to be fully seated but it will put less tension into the mainspring. It will also further reduce the DA trigger pull to the range of 7 1/2 to 8 lbs. At the same time, the SA trigger pull will drop to a bit less than 2 lbs, which is enough to produce a trigger that feels "light as a feather".

If you want to restore your model 19 to "stock", it's pretty simple. What you will need is a new, stock rebound spring with a weight of 15 to 16 lbs. and a new strain screw. By installing these parts you'll have a DA trigger pull of about 10-11 lbs. and a SA trigger pull of about 4 lbs.

If you don't want the DA pull that heavy, install a 14 lbs. rebound spring and that new strain screw. This will produce a DA pull of about 8 1/2 lbs. and a SA pull of slightly more than 3 lbs., which IMO is just about optimum for a S&W revolver.

PS, don't neglect getting a new strain screw for your model 19, I am almost certain that you'll find that it's been shortened and putting a shim between the strain screw and the mainspring is a temporary patch that may not stay in place. In addition, a shortened strain screw could cause problems with achieving proper tension with the mainspring and that can cause problems with misfires. Fortunately, this is NOT an expensive part and it's easy to get. Following are links to this screw on Numrich's site for both Square and Round butt model 19's.

Strain Screw, Square Butt, Blue

Strain Screw, Round Butt, Blue

Pss, note that I do NOT believe that you need to replace your mainspring. When your model 19 was produced it wasn't normal to replace or modify mainsprings because it was so much simpler to just grind a bit off the strain screw for the same effect. IMO, the only parts you need are a new rebound spring and a new strain screw.

Added, link to rebound spring selection kit's from Brownell's. Unfortunately, I did not find a good selection of strain screws on Brownell's web site, so that would have to come from Numrich's. However, Numrich doesn't seem to carry the Wolff rebound spring kits, thus the link to Brownell's offering. Yeah, it means paying shipping and handling from 2 sources instead of one, but it's a workable solution. At the same time you can find the S&W revolver manual on Brownell's and the Rebound Slide Spring Installation Tool, which is an absolute essential for working on these guns. I would suggest getting the Manual, Rebound Slide Tool, and the 9 dollar (1667) spring kit from Brownell's and perhaps seeing if your search skills are better than mine, they may have the strain screw somewhere that I couldn't find. All told it will cost less to do this yourself and it's not at all difficult, just make sure you read the manual on how to remove the sideplate, IT CANNOT BE PRIED OFF WITHOUT DAMAGING IT. It can also be a bit fussy getting the sideplate back on the first time you do it, took me 40 minutes the first time, now it takes less than 30 seconds because it's a "feel" thing you learn. If you run into a roadblaock getting the sideplate back on, do NOT force it, just ask in the Smithing Subforum for tips, we'll guide you in.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=16530/Product/S_W_REDUCED_POWER_REBOUND_SPRING

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=774/Product/S_W_REBOUND_SLIDE_SPRING_TOOL

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=25717/Product/THE_S_W_REVOLVER___A_SHOP_MANUAL