Model 19 hammer won't cock double action

[KAC]

One thing to check is the trigger stop. The trigger stop screw will loosen and cause the stop to move out of adjustment. From the picture it looks like a portion of the stop may be coming into contact with the trigger when it attempts to return. It is usually a good idea to remove the stop to prevent it from causing malfunctions.

KAC

 

[H Richard]

On the lubrication, I was always told to use (sparingly) light oil, not grease. Grease was recommended for parts that slide back & forth, such as a semi-auto slide. I only put a drop or two on the hammer & trigger studs, and on the flat sides of the hammer & trigger and on the side & bottom of the rebound spring housing. The less the better as S&W's are made to run nearly dry.

 

[stang68]

Thanks H Richard. I ended up using a little gun oil sparingly applied with a Q Tip rather than the Lithium. It's now back together and working fine dry fire.

 

[xcpd69]

This may help.

The red circle shows where the lugs on the hammer foot and rebound slide are misaligned. With the hammer at rest they should NOT be.

The green circle shows a gap between the rebound slide and trigger. Again, at rest there should NOT be.

Look closely at the area in the blue circle. It appears the trigger stop (held in place by that screw) MAY be protruding into the path of the rebound slide, arresting it's forward movement. Without having the weapon in hand, it is MY admittly amatuer opinion that the screw retaining the trigger stop loosened, allowing it to shift out of proper position. Possibly the cleaning loosened some gunk, causing the stop to move back into proper placement.

Back in the 70s, IIRC, Smith & Wesson issued a notice on these K-Frame trigger stops, reccommending their removal, for just this reason: shifting and tying up the action.

On a defensive weapon, I believe I'd follow that rule.

If you REALLY want a trigger stop, consider an internal rod, like the N-Frame weapons have. This rod, trimmed to fit, goes inside the spring in the rebound slide, accomplishing the same thing, (reducing trigger overtravel) without the likelyhood of tying up the weapon.

As always, YMMV and the preceding is merely the observations of an Amatuer Armchair Commando.

 

[stang68]

Thanks Lonny for the detail provided in the photo and description. When I had the gun apart and trying to figure out the cause of the problem I should have noticed the gap between the rebound slide and the trigger long before I did. Since the gun is now back together and currently operating flawlessly through many dry fires, I think I'll wait until I have a problem or am totally bored before opening it up again, have much to do in prep for a long awaited pleasure trip to Cabo. That gun is not the first line of home defense so it is not a high priority. Thanks again to all who helped me through this.

Jordan

 

[Carl Williams]

IMHO, go ahead and use the brake parts cleaner (remove the grips first!). Anyway that's what I would do, and have done many times with many different guns and most anything of all metal construction. Let us know what you find as a resolution.. Your problem is very interesting..

Whoops, I see I missed the rest of this string and my response is a bit late..
Yes, this was an interesting problem.. We all seemed to have learned from it...Thanks for sharing..